Accent MC (2006-11) :: Hard Start And Stumble At Takeoff
Aug 17, 2016
09' Auto accent developed an issue that I haven't been able to sort out. Car began experiencing a condition where it was harder and harder to start, over about a 2 day period. As well, when stopped at a light it would idle fine, but almost stall when you tried to accelerate. Once above about 2k rpms it was fine, but then near 4k rpm it felt dead, didn't want to pull.
Only code was P0171.
Here is what I have checked thus far.
All injectors ohm out exactly at 15.1
-Fuel pump primes at key on like it should
-Verified cam/crank are timed properly (timing belt didn't slip a tooth)
-Car is MAP based, so no MAF to deal with. It's totally stock down to the paper air filter.
-Purge solenoid is closed and appears to be functioning properly.
I was checking things last night and this time it didn't want to start at all. I haven't checked for injector pulse or spark (it's coil on plug), but this didn't seem like part of the issue it was experiencing. Almost feels like a cam or crank sensor going out (timing is acting weird). Is there a relatively easy way to test the cam or crank sensors other than just trying new ones?
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My 2011 stick shift no air Accent has a hesitation or stumble on light acceleration that comes and goes. It may not occur for weeks then re-occurs. It is hard to reproduce intentionally. It never occurs in cruise. The CEL is not on. Most often occurs at 1400 to 1500 rpm with slight acceleration or a slight increase in load as coming to a slight hill. I tried injector cleaner a few times and changed air filter. It seemed more reloaded to induction airflow so I changed the MAP sensor. I understand the 2011 Accent does not have a MAF sensor. It is still occurring. It is fine in steady cruise as well as in hard acceleration. I am wondering if it is a TPS sensor problem. It has 60,000 miles and otherwise runs fine.
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My car has a bit of trouble starting every now and again. I have noticed it is when I have low fuel. When I try to start it it will just keep winding over. I'll switch my car off completely and try again. It usually starts the second or third time. What could be the problem? Its a 05/06 Hyundai Accent
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My wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
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I have a 2009 Accent. Last year I started to have a hard start issue, very intermittent. It eventually got worse this year.
During the cold, it was never an issue, but during the summer damp or rainy days it occurred quite frequently.
It would turn over, but never start. If I pressed the gas peddle while starting it up, it usually would start the 2nd or 3rd time.
I changed the usual start up components; plugs, ignition coils, cam shaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, and cleaned the throttle body.
None of those changes worked for the startup. When I removed my throttle body to fully clean it again, I noticed there was an extra air channel into the engine from the TB. Following this, I found the ISCA.
Removing, taking apart, and cleaning the idle speed control actuator seemed to have fixed the issue. It was so caked up with carbon deposit/build up, it couldn't fully rotate.
I used the throttle body cleaner to clean it out and then it began to spin freely (I removed it from the black sensor part first).
Since putting it back altogether, I haven't had a start up issue since.
Here are the notes from the service manual .....
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My wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
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My 302 runs pretty good when all warmed up. It has some cold start issues every now and then, but is easily dealt with. My question is how to best "tune" the carb. It's a 600 cfm 4150/60 style Holley single pump, vac secondaries and electric choke. About as basic as you can get. I think I have the fuel level set correctly. I also think I have the "idle mixture" set right. I used a vacuum gauge and moved back and forth between screws till I got the highest vacuum. Is there a better way than that? I have the idle set correctly. the fast idle is a little high, but I can fix that.
Now, my real question is how to fix the hiccup and stumble I get many times when I step into it pretty good. I assume that this is the point the carb is going from idle circuit to main circuit. It stumbles when I get on it real hard from a standing start. I can roll slowly and step into it and it stumbles as well. I also like to blip the throttle when I down shift (it has a manual tranny by the way), and many times I'll blip it and get nothing. Now, it runs fine after the stumble all through the rpm range. That's the only time it stumbles. so, do I need more accel. pump shot?? To compensate on the transfer of circuits.
I also notice when I on it real hard, during the shift right when I jump on it, under the heaviest load, I hear a bit of spark knock. It's not running hot, and the timing is good. Do I need a bit bigger jets? I'm thinking it's going a bit lead during that time, but I don't have any real way to measure it.
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06 F250 6.0 with only 65,xxx miles on it. This has happened twice and both times the engine was warm and had been cut off for less than 10 min.. When I tried to crank it back up it stumbled and idle roughly then cut off. After several attempts to re-crank it still would idle rough and I tried to give it fuel but no change, even with pedal fully depressed. Then it would die.
After sitting a few minutes it starts normal. Both times I didn't have my obd2 adapter for my torque pro. The last time it happened I went home and hooked it up and got no codes. Everything looked fine. What could it be, where should I start looking. Batteries are1.5 years old. Oil, oil filter, and both fuel filter changed about 1000 miles back. I have had the truck for 1.5 years and the oil has been changed twice.
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I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
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I just bought an 05' SE V6, with the 3.3 engine. Seemed to run good, had it checked by shop and they said it was a good buy, so i bought it. First day I owned it, took it to toyota dealership and had them do a 90, 000 mi service. did a timing belt, water pump, tranny flush, oil change. I got the car back, and it ran like crap! It would stumble on hard acceleration, and seem to even surge a bit at times. I took it right back? Service rep tried to say I put in diesel or bad gas. I only filled up with chevron premium, which is only gas i ever use. I know how to put gas in my tank!
Any how, they checked timing belt and said it was right, but the timing gear needed to be changed because one tooth looked rounded off. That didn't work either, still stumbled on acceleration, but idled perfect @ 675 rpms. So now the serv. manager gets involved, says he wants me satisfied. they then drained all my gas, then re-fill it. then flushed out all injectors. then put in all new plugs and PCV valve. I did a pressure test of fuel system, said it was good. While they were changing the plugs, they did a complete 6 cylinder compression test and scope analysis, and it came back good, too! I pick it up cause i got to go back. It ran a lot better but still stumbles on hard acceleration on highway. drove 1250 miles back, didn't use a drop of oil.
I did notice when I got 100 miles the temp gauge dropped all the way down to second mark on cold for a little bit, but went back to normal temp and stayed there through the last 1100 miles(that scared me, so i watched temp gauge like a hawk). And the outside temp was @ 62 degrees when the temp dropped at 1200 ft. Elevation...maybe it got stuck and is ok? My CEL has never came on through all this, and it does work, I have made sure of that.
I bought this car from original owner, and they had engine and heads just replaced in 2008 at 44,000 miles at toyota dealership under warranty fot 10,000 dollars. i verified this with that dealership 3 times with 3 different reps at that dealership. old owner said he was having problems with engine stumbling, and took it in twice and dealership said it was ok each time, not throwing any codes and sent him away saying car was ok.
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2004 accent, manual, 114k miles. for the last 2-3 years it had a slight stumble at idle, and it was getting 36-38 mpg mostly highway. As part of a check on the starter function, I carefully cleaned the corrosion off of both thick wires going to the starter solenoid. When I started it again, the stumble was gone. Then, after almost 400 miles of mostly hy driving, my mileage was 42+. It has never been that high. Is it possible that the corroded wires caused both a stumble and increased fuel consumption? I did nothing else to the car, and most of the hy driving was freeway at very high speed.
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I own a out of warranty 2008 Accent manual, now on 94 000km/58 408 miles. This morning, it started to not engage 2nd gear, then when I press the pedal hard it does, then sometimes 4th gear. What could be at fault here, and how do I fix it?
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I have brand new ( 800KM ) Accent with Automatic transmission and I noticed that it shifts from 1st gear into 2nd kinda rough. By this I mean that I can feel shift pretty good, and I don't feel shifts from 2 to 3 to 4. I don't rev engine high, typically shifts occur when engine revs around 2000 rpm.
I am not sure if it is a transmission defect or this is the way it shifts? May be I need to breaking my car first and it will go away?
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I got the car like that. When I take off hard there is a crack somewhere in the front. Then when I stop hard it cracks too. What could it be??? Sometype of bushing??
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After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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I have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
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I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. In the past 2 weeks, immediately after pumping gas into my car, when I start my car, its difficult to start my car and keep it running. For at least 3-4 minutes after putting gas into my tank, I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep my car running. Sometimes, it will shut off. Then, after a few minutes, all is good and I can drive the car without an issue. What's going on?
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