Accent MC (2006-11) :: GLS Stalling At Stops / Engine Will Crank But Doesn't Turn Over Right Away
May 12, 2016
I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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My 2008 Accent will intermittently crank crank and will not turn over. You can hear it trying to start but it seems like its not getting fuel. Then I will stop turning the key, try again and it will start. It may do this two or three times before starting. I have no codes.
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I have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
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I have a Hyundai accent 2007, I guess the brain box is faulty, the engine will crank fan roll etc but won't start at all, can dis reset work for it at all ...
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I have a 2000 Saab 9-3, the 'Viggen' model, and it almost always runs just fine. But once in a while, maybe every couple of thousand miles, the engine just stops, in the middle of cruising along. The power steering goes dead immediately. So far, it has only happened in city driving, not going fast or accelerating hard. I can restart immediately by just depressing the clutch and running the starter. From other reading, I wonder whether it's the Direct Ignition Casset? The engine is the 2.3 L turbo.
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Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
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Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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My Accent recently died in traffic. All of the electronic components seem to be working. The engine cranks but does not turn over. I removed the spark plugs and they were soaked in gasoline and the plugs on the 1st and 2nd cylinder had a black residue. I dried them off and tried to start the car again, no luck. The spark plugs were soaked in gas.
Over the summer (5 months ago) 2 ignition coils fouled out and I replaced them along with all of the spark plugs.
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Today the CEL on my 2010 HB with 30,000km came on and the car ran rough like it had a bad spark plug. I went straight home and luckily had a set on hand and replaced them. Car now runs like before but the CEL is still on.
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Random issue that has progressively been getting worse. I'm assuming it's one of those Sonata quirks that we all deal with.
When you turn the key the starter doesn't try to crank the engine. AC stuff all works properly. I just keep turning and eventually it will turn on.
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I have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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So I 2003 6.0 F350 that is a Dually. Been sitting in my yard for about two years now. I turn the key it just clicks and it doesn't crank. The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the whit The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the wire on the engine bay. It cranked for a while and that started ran rough. Then it just died. I did not start again. I did this during winter so the engine have time to cool off it was about below freezing. Done this multiple times and drove up and down in my backyard but not on the road. What could be wrong with it. Either way I put in diesel 911 and more fuel but and I change the filters with Motorcraft OEM filters. Sure that the caps were right.
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I have a 2010 Accent with 106 000 km on it (Canada). A couple months ago (just as warranty expired) the car would not start. Nothing. Engine would not even turn over. Just a click of the starter solenoid. battery had a load test and is fine. Removed negative battery cable and cleaned the cable where it bolts to the body under the battery tray. Battery terminals were both cleaned at the same time.
Things worked fine for a couple weeks and the problem is back but worse. Everything in the car works fine when it won't start. If I continually turn the key to the start position it will eventually start to turn over and start fine. Sometimes it takes 20-30 turns of the key till it turns over and starts. When it does turn over and start, the engine turns over fine at the normal speed. Not slow like a weak battery.
Dealer is useless. Had a coil go a couple months back just before the warranty expired and they told us that the reason the coil went was that the car had been rust proofed by someone other than Hyundai.
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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Probably 20k ago the check engine light came on and was related to the "purge" valve as best I can recall, every mechanic I took it to kind of blew it off as just an emissions thing and not really necessary to fix. so whatever just let the light stay on as the car ran identical to before the light came on.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago and my wife was filling up between classes and after she was done and went to start it, it would turn over but wouldn't start completely, luckily a guy there pump the gas and revving it out as he turned it over. then it ran perfectly fine afterwards, started up perfectly after every time....until we got gas again.
Took it to a local guy a few people I know used, told him about the check engine light and maybe the purge valve thing had finally gotten bad enough to need replacing (this was my guess after some internet digging for the same issue), he troubleshooted and came to the decision to replace the front o2 sensor. Ok I said, your the mechanic not me, do it. did it and next time got gas....same thing.
he had it for another 2 days and "couldn't figure it out", refunded me completely for the o2 sensor & labor, while throwing in the towel today. Next up , Hyundai dealership I suppose. Car is throwing NO CODES whatsoever now, have put several hundred miles on since new o2 sensor.
While he had it he had to replace the master brake cylinder. So that's new as well. I've had to replace all the coils already between 75-85k they started acting up one by one so I said screw it and did them all.
OH and another problem is the airbag light has been on the dash for about the last 6-9 months as well.
The car has just over 111k on it and I've about had it, bullshit problem after another and another. What's next??! I've owned probably 7-9 cars in my life and nothing has given me the aggravation of this car.
Cliffs:
1) car won't start when putting in gas
2) starts if you rev it up for a short while, then will start every time afterwards til next fuel up.
3) o2 sensor is new
4) no more check engine light, no codes, yet still have issue
5) car is starting to wear down my patience with repairs
6) if not a cheap fix, bye bye Hyundai
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My 2010 Accent has been stalling intermittently, always when I am idling. I'll be at a stop light, and it will stall, and then it usually starts right up again. It is almost always the same stop light on my way to work, like clockwork, and likewise on my way home from work. Also, sometimes right after this stalling event, the motor will be a little rough on the highway, sputtering like it's not getting gas very well, but then it evens out after a while.
Yesterday for the first time it died and wouldn't start again. I suspected my fuel pump had gone out. I had it towed to a repair shop, but it started just fine for them and they can't re-create the problem. It doesn't give any computer codes at all.
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Twice today my car stalled out while idling. Once at a left turn red light and once in the drive thru. The first time it restarted after about 10 minutes. The second time it restarted after about 2 minutes.
Car is throwing cod P0339 for Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent.
I did some reading up on this on the forums but didn't do much about it. I just tried wiggling the wiring and all that when idling, didn't notice any roughness or stalling so.... may not be a connector issue.
Anyhow, planning to take it in for diagnosis and repair as it's really not derivable the way it is.
Actually this is the first time ever the car has given me engine trouble of any kind. just passed 90,000 miles. Shucks, streak broken.
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I need diagnosing a problem on my 2002 Hyundai Accent LC. When I accelerate with the aircon on the engine stops accelerating at high RPM and when I accelerate from a stand still the engine hesitates and jerks! I don't understand what the problem may be coz it works perfectly after a cold start but after it warms it starts doing that.
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