Twice now I've had my fuel cap/gas cap come loose and throw a CEL regarding emissions. This is fixed by screwing the cap back on and clearing the code. There is no good reason for the fuel cap to unscrew itself so I'm thinking there could be an underlying issue, possibly pressure related.
View 2 RepliesCheck engine light popped on (first time ever) at 76,000 miles. Had my brother read the code with this engine diagnostic tool and it said "Fuel Cap". No big deal...
Take it to Hyundai, nope, not fuel cap... it's an Emissions/Evap control valve leaking above the fuel tank somewhere.
I have a 2005 Accent GL with about 130k miles. When I start driving it, it seems fine for a little while, then it will throw itself into what I believe is 3rd gear and won't shift out of that for the remainder of the drive. The check engine light is also on now. I had my transmission flushed maybe 6 months prior to the first occurrence.
I took it to a transmission shop, they read the code, and then wanted $485 just to look at the transmission. I believe the code said "3rd gear incorrect ratio," but it could have been 4th gear too.
Is this a common issue? Is it likely a sensor or the transmission itself?
I am getting a code for my 2003 Accent (65,000 miles). The code is P1401 and it is telling me the fix is replace Evaporative Emissions Canister. I asked my mechanic about 2 months ago about this and he wasn't too concerned.
We are not in an area where they do Emission testing. I will be driving back home to WI . and want to know if I should be concerned. The round trip is about 900 miles.
This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
Gotten this code on B6, P008B- fuel/air metering and auxiliary emissions controls? If so what does it mean in a little more detail. I am guessing something along the lines of an o2 sensor.
View 5 RepliesCurrently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
View 2 RepliesIs it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 accent.. fuel pump went so I just replaced it...it pumps fuel but not getting any fuel to the cylinders...had a plug out to test the spark and it has good spark but plugs were dry and very faint fuel smell...also changed the crankshaft position sensor.. what could cause a no fuel issue??car ran fine, shut it off and no start..checked the fuel pump and it wasn't working though it had power to it...why the injectors wouldn't be working??
View 12 RepliesDaughter got a new car 2010 accent gls. It burps fuel after every fill up (after the fuel nozzle shuts off like it should) and runs down the side of the car... sounds like hyundai has problems with this on a few different models. This is the first non-gm vehicle in our family. I grew up working with them and driving them and know them well.
Anyway, looks like 3 different parts here:
Having this same issue on my daughters 2010 Accent GLS. It burps up fuel after the fuel shuts off on the pump. Which exact part do I need?
-Vapor Canister
-Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid
-Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid
I'm assuming it's the vent valve solenoid, I've got the part on order. Looks easy to replace and I will be pulling the canister box down and taking a look when I replace it. I'll check everything with air (blowing into it etc...).
On a side note, combined fuel economy is 36.5mpg. I would expect that though, small engine, small car etc...
My car has a bit of trouble starting every now and again. I have noticed it is when I have low fuel. When I try to start it it will just keep winding over. I'll switch my car off completely and try again. It usually starts the second or third time. What could be the problem? Its a 05/06 Hyundai Accent
View 4 RepliesHave an Accent 2006 manual drive. Had this problem 3 times after considerable gaps.
First time, driving normally during the day, stopped for fuel. Switched off ignition, filled up, then suddenly did not start. Turned over but did not start. About after 3 minutes of trying (sometimes continuously and sometimes keeping a short break), started normally and I was off. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing. Did not mention to the service center during regular servicing as thought it was a one off incident.
Second time, several months after first incident, a warm and sunny day, went for a pollution test. Parked to wait. Was called for the test. Started and went over, completed and parked again to wait for the certificate. Got it in about 15 minutes. Then again, turned over normally but did not start. This time, battery died after several tries. So I had some people push and it started first time and I carried on. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Third time, about 2 months from the second incident, was driving normally in the early evening with no issues during the morning/day. Slowed down at a pothole in the road, and the engine just died. Turned over normally but did not start despite several tries. So while preserving the battery, I had some people push the car confident as in the second time that the car would start. But did not even after several tries. So while pondering what to do at the side of the road, after about 10 minutes, gave it another shot. Turned over and started normally on first try as if nothing had happened. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Has been about a month since, no problems. Just takes a wee bit longer than usual to start.
I replace all my spark plugs but my car still has no power and its eating gas like crazy.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 2006 Accent. A few days ago the code 0496 popped up for evap system issues. The fuel tank is pressurized quite a bit and with the filler cap off you can hear air bubbling up through the fuel. Sounds like blowing air through a straw into a drink. It is constant and putting the cap back on it re-pressurizes quickly. I have never seen this before in any vehicle.
View 1 RepliesMy 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
View 2 RepliesMake: Hyundai
Model: Accent
Year: 2007
Mileage: 70K
I've added Mystery Oil into my gas tank to clean fuel injectors as a maintenance precaution. I added it to a full tank of gas, when the gas tank was on low and I needed to get more gas, the check engine light came on.
The car was diagnosed with CEL reader from Autozone, misfire in cyl 3 is what the guy said. 3 full gas tanks later, it still has the same code and the car idles rough, hesitates and only seems to behave normal under medium to full throttle at higher RPMs.
I've been reading online for similar issues, as well as asking my friend who works as a mechanic at a dealership. Everyone seems to be accepting this behavior as normal and suggesting to wait out a couple of more gas tanks for the fuel injector cleaner to burn through.
I've looked at the spark plugs. 1,2, and 4 cylinder spark plugs have normal wear and tear. #3 has black build up, which corresponds with online pictures of rich mixture misfire.
I'm looking for a repair manual on another thread on this forum so I can take the injector from cylinder #3 out and look at it.
My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Accent GLS with 96,000 miles. Up to now I have only needed to do regular maintenance (which I do myself usually ) and had no major issues other than the sway bar drop link problem which I found the solution to on this forum. And self destructing spark plugs (on 3 separate occasions).
The other day while driving, the car surged once like it was running out of fuel. Then the tachometer stopped functioning. And if I floored the accelerator to cause a downshift I would lose power and the car would surge until I let up on the accelerator and the car would up shift. The CEL came on and I had the code read. It was P0339. So I replace the crankshaft sensor and everything went back to normal and the CEL went off. Until 2 days later...
Today the CEL came back on. I had no issues while driving as far as I could tell. I had the code read again and it came up as P0336, P0300, P0302, and P0303. The odd thing is I have no starting or running issues. So I'm really not sure what is going on here.
I just changed out the fuel sending unit in my 08 Accent and now the gauge doesn't work. Everything appears to be plugged in.
View 2 RepliesIt was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...