Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Shakes For Two Seconds Then Cuts Off When Reversing
Feb 25, 2015
My 2007 Hyundai will randomly after being parked for 3+ hours will stall (engine shakes for two seconds then cuts off) when attempting to reverse. This only happens when the car is turned on then trying to reverse. It will NOT do this when driving and later putting the vehicle into reverse. Additionally when the weather is extremely cold or hot this becomes more frequent. If the car can be shifted into reverse without stalling within 5 seconds it will NOT stall. To solve the problem I have to either keep trying to turn on the car and shifting to reverse until it doesn't stall out (sometimes 3 tries or more) or putting the car into neutral and pushing. I have to stress this only happens after having the vehicle sit for more than several hours even a day and is random. One day no matter how many times I tried turning the car on and trying to reverse and repeating it would not stop stalling out. I had to wait till the parallel parked car in front of me moved so I could get out of my spot. What is wrong with my car? I have taken it to Porter Hyundai TWICE and they cannot determine the problem even after scanning for codes.
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So I just got a bunch of work done on my car: the timing belt, spark plugs, serpentine belt and water pump were just replaced. I had the oil changed, the fluids changed, new front tires, and an alignment all about a month ago, but now every time i turn my car on there is a squealing noise coming from my engine (i assume a belt). Then when i get to higher speeds the entire car shakes, but more so on the drivers side. I have also noticed my brakes just starting to squeal as well, but the shaking was occurring before that. What it might be?
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
hatchback standard
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I drive a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT and recently had a new heater core installed, but now when I try to drive it, it cuts off on me once I get out of the driveway. It starts back up fine, but then cuts again seconds after I try to drive. When I start the car it idles fine. I could have it idling for 10 minutes plus and have no issues, but once I shift it into gear and begin to back out of the drive way it shuts down again.
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
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I took a look at a few topics regarding fuses, and pulled my fuses to see, but didn't see anything too weird.
In any case, every few days or so, I'll go to unlock my car and the keyless entry won't work. I'll open the door with my key, turn the ignition, and notice that my radio has completely reset and essentially the items power cycle, like power was lost when the car was off.
Like I mentioned, I have checked the fuses in the cabin area (but where to start for the fuses in the engine compartment).
The car is fine 99% of the time, but this really worries me, especially since I'm looking to sell the car.
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2010 Hyundai Accent GLS (automatic)
Just noticed the last few days that my car has developed a shake when accelerating, but stops after a certain speed. It isn't bad yet, but when I started going up a hill today it was significantly worse. The entire car started shaking, but stop after the car leveled out.
I just put in a new front left and right axle two weeks ago, would that have caused anything ?
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Whenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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While i'm driving the engine I think will shake or jump for a while then stop. Or when i'm at a red light and stopped.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 which has 126k miles on it. Overall the car runs well without any trouble. Recently I am noticing that if I suddenly slow down (like taking an exit from interstate or sudden traffic so that speed reduces to 30 mph from 60 mph or so), the front of the car starts shaking. On a very few occasion I have noticed that the check engine light comes up for a few seconds and disappears. At the same time car looses it's acceleration power. However, as soon as I slow down further (close to stop) everything starts working fine without any issue. What could be going wrong? The car is due for a timing belt replacement around 130k miles .
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My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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When cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
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My bmw started fine.then as i was driving it cut out. it took 5 minutes to get it started.now it fires up for 30 seconds or so then cuts out.
today it wouldnt start at all and i cant hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on ... 1991 bmw 320sei ....
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My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
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All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
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I have my VRT to the point where it should be able to be started and run but it just cuts off after about 2 seconds.
Here are a few videos I took while trying to start it. To me or sounds like an immobilizer issue but I don't know for sure.
Please ignore my mess of an engine bay... that's only temporary while it try to get this thing running.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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Sometimes when I start my car, either after work or in the morning, I can feel the engine shaking. At times it does it after the engine is warm. Its the '06 3.3, I've had the car for 5 days now...
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