Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Seems To Work Harder When AC Is On
Jul 9, 2013
It's been very hot for the past few weeks and I've been using my AC a lot. I've noticed that when the AC is on (4th setting, Max A/C), the engine works a lot harder when taking off from a stand still and going up hills. I can hear the engine struggling and I've often spotted the tach hitting close to 5,000 RPMs when taking off casually from a red light. It only does this with the AC on. I've recently replaced my engine and cabin air filters so I am ruling those out. Is it normal behavior?
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I have a 2010 Accent GS. I was trying to change the bulb in the trunk light. I changed the bulb and now none of the lights inside the car work-- map lights, dome light, trunk light. I figured it was a blown fuse. I looked at the fuse box inside the car and I think I found the fuse I think it's the one in that yellow box that is in the right side center of the fuse box. How do you pull that thing out? Are you supposed to pull out the individual fuses. I pulled the yellow box. It only comes half-way out. How do I check that little 10 amp fuse inside that yellow box?
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Windshield wipers don't work at all. Not even a little bit.
I first had a problem in the summer. The wipers stopped working for a day or two and then started working fine again. Now, they don't work at all. The fuse is fine (and was replaced even though it was fine). It isn't the switch as that has been replaced. It isn't the motor/wiper arms as that has been replaced. I don't see any damaged wires or anything.
I am hoping I am missing something really simple.
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I have a 2008 Accent two door hatchback. The speedometer started jumping and then just quit along with the odometer. The odometer displays the last mileage but doesn't increase. I replaced the speedometer sensor in the side of the transmission and found two of the pins on the connector socket going to that sensor were burnt. I have now replaced the three connector, cable and it still doesn't work. The Hyundai part number for the HMC Extension cable is 43893-23011. So, I have a new cable and new sensor. What next?
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I got me new accent 2011 but my odo doesn't display the computer trip that display the mileage and shift indicator and other stuff only show the km and trip....
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Noticed when I press brake pedal brake lights does not work even the center one. Checked all fused in the car and the small ones under the hood. All fine. I have a long trip tomorrow. Where else i can look. Everything seems working. Reverse light is fine. Is that related to latest brake light switch recall? Cant think of anything else.
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I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
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I am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
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I have a 2006 Kia Sedona which has done 57000 miles. For the last 2 weeks I have been having starting problem. When I turn the key there is no 'starting sound', the lights, radio and the AC start working but the engine does not start up at all. After several attempts and after keeping the key in 'ignition on' position the engine fires up and starts running.
It has been happening intermittently and fortunately for me it happened at the dealer and they are saying it is a short circuit in starter motor and the entire starter has to be replaced. It is covered by the warranty but I want to know if thats what is wrong. A friend of mine who had similar problems was saying that he had to replace starter 3-4 times before they discovered that a wire was defective which was not sending enough amps to start the engine. What to do.
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I have a '95 pontiac grand AM with about 208,000 miles on it. About a week ago, i noticed it was getting harder to start when the engine is cold. When the engine has warmed up, it starts up right away, however, the engine begins to sputter and sounds as if it is going to die. The engine still sputters while driving and the car begins to jolt back and forth. When I come to a stop, the car sounds as if its going to shut off. Today, I started the car and it was sputtering so I turned it off and then wasn't able to start it for about 40 mins. I let the car sit for about 20 mins and then tried it, started right up. What could be causing the sputtering and engine throbbing? What's wrong?
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I have a 97 f150 4.6, when I'm towing a load and trying to accelerate a little harder either to just gain speed or climb an incline I get this terrible crackling noise from my engine as if I was low on coolant or low on oil. But all my fluids are good. It even does it when I'm climbing an incline not loaded. What this could be?
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My 2006 accent began having trouble getting up hills and getting up to speed..I then could not get above 20mph..I opened the hood and found oil coming out of the right side of the engine...at the seam not alot...Now ive needed a valve gasket replacement for awhile and had oil in spark plugs...what could the issue be..and could a bad valve gasket cause this...
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2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS and it feels like I'm continuously riding the brakes at random times and engine sounds like its working harder than usual to get the car to move. I thought I had this problem solved by replacing the master cylinder but I seems to be happening again. The reason I replaced the master cylinder was because I came out one morning about 2 months ago and started down my driveway to get the mail (I live on a steep hill) and I thought I had a broken line or something because I had almost no pedal and it was sinking to the floor. What confused me the brakes seemed good the day before when I drove about 40 miles round trip to town and then parked it overnight. (except for the brakes sticking feeling) I had the car put on a rack and found nothing more than a slow leak at the proportioning valve but I noticed on the way to the shop the car was no longer hard to move and was smoother rolling than it had been in a long long time.
The brake fluid was a little low but when I filled it to the max level the pedal still felt soft and would sink unit I had the master cylinder replaced, With the sinking pedal and all I was thinking its probably a bad/sticking master cylinder that maybe could have been applying slight pressure to all the brakes at once and now it was released. I purchased a reman master cylinder from advance and had it put on and it seemed to work great and my car was still rolling freely. The proportional valve is still leaking (small drip when pressed) but I didn't think it could cause all these problems. I usually have to pump the brake before I leave of a morning or my pedal will be soft and sink but not all the time.
Recently I noticed my car is starting to feel like it is sticking again and my last mpg estimate was 17mpg, I might be a little hard on the throttle at times but not all the time. The rims feel equally warm after driving but not real hot. I have replaced a lot of parts over the last 2 years so most of the braking parts are near new. All the brake lines have been replaced along with the hydraulic hoses. Front calipers are new Rear caliper I rebuilt myself Master cylinder was replaced over a month ago. Could it be the abs unit or the brake booster? A week ago the car rolled freely but the pedal was starting to feel hard like the symptoms of a bad brake booster.
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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2007 Accent GLS. I have oil in the intake going towards the engine. I know a bit of a mist is normal but mine drips once I remove the intake. I changed the PCV valve but its still there. Intake filter was also changed and I got an oil change. The car also feels like it staggers once I take my foot off the gas.
Also after driving on the highway for about an hour the car wants to stall if I go above 100km/h but its fine below 100km/h.
I have new spark plugs, got the fuel system cleaned at the Stealer, changed the coils, new air intake filter.
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In the last 6 weeks my 2007 Accent has died when I've come to a stop. Once in traffic on the freeway and the rest at stop signs or lights. The car will start back up and won't die again for a week maybe. Nothing consistent. I took it to a mechanic and nothing shows up on the computer. I took it to the dealer, still nothing on the computer. He cleaned the throttle body I think and put an additive in the tank. Two days later it died at a stop sign. Automatic transmission. Ok, what's the problem?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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Encountered the said issue where the ABS light will not go off even after engine started.
After a 30 mins smooth drive, I park my car and went off for 10 minutes. Back to the car and it took longer time than usual to start the engine. (normally took only 1 second to start the engine). It feels like the battery is not properly charge.
After a short drive, my parking brake aka hand brake and ABS light appear at the same time when the car is moving. Stop my car aside, restart engine, parking brake back to normal. ABS light will not go off since then. Starting the car seems easy as usual though.
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