Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Valve Knocking On Slow Acceleration
Aug 21, 2011
I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
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I've got 120,000 on my 08 manual Accent. Recently I've been getting white smoke after running it hard. It happens like this. I slow down from 70mph or so with the clutch engaged to about 40mph, then upon acceleration the engine stumbles and white smoke pours from the tailpipe. My guess is a leaky head gasket.
I had the dealer go through it. They pressure tested the cylinders and put a scope in them. They claim nothing is wrong with the engine.
I mentioned since they can vouch for the engine now, I'd like to get an estimate on trade in value. I don't think I want to keep it much longer.
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My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
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Haven't had the engine cover off for about 25k now (cleaned it up under there last time I changed plugs.) Took it off today and noticed it's a little oily on all four sides around the valve cover.
Pretty sure I can account for the oil that's near the filler cap... I don't recall spilling enough that would completely go around the entire valve cover though...
But how did it end up so high on top of the valve cover on the corners? It's even a little wet looking on the back if you look hard enough..
I only have 4600 miles left of the 10/100 warranty so I'm glad I caught this and hope the dealer can do something about it... or are they going to tell me this a "normal" amount of seepage? I haven't owned a vehicle with plastic valve covers before so I don't quite know what to expect.
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Ok, I've been hearing the strangest noise under my car for awhile now. It sounds for all the world like a drum stick is hanging by a rope, swinging back and forth, and hitting against something solid. It makes 3-4 loud taps and the vibration can be felt through the gas pedal/floorboard. It ONLY happens when pulling out while turning left or right and going over a rough entrance like a rain gutter that bounces the car pretty decent. So whatever it is doesn't start swinging under normal driving. For the life of me I can't imagine what could be that heavy to make noise like that and not be causing any other problems.
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2002 Ford Escape XLS 5 Speed, My timing belt was just replaced along with the timing idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. It drove great yesterday but this morning when I was taking my son to school the engine started knocking. It does this idling and at slow speeds. Once driving the noise disappears. What this may be?
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Our 2005 V8 makes an awful noise under acceleration. I think it sounds like a valve clatter, but I think I remember reading it was some part in the exhaust making the noise. I've tried all fuel options to see if it was related to what OCT fuel.
I brought it in for service (5 recalls, nice) and they didn't hear it (of course) until I took them for a ride. The tech said he remembered earlier models having some issue.
I don't buy that it's "Normal" because I don't hear other 4.2 V8s making that noise, and I sure has hell don't think a 45K SUV should sound like somethings broke when it revs past 4K.
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My 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
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2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
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I've had my Scion xb since 22,000 miles. It's now 127,000 miles and I am having the first big issue.....or maybe. My husband thinks that it's something simple and an easy fix like a relay. We drove it on the highway in the morning and intermittently throughout the day, parked it for 3 hours and then started driving again. Three lights came on VSC, Check Engine, Trac Off and then it started accelerating slower than usual up hills and idling extremely low. We stopped and checked the oil level - at the 1/2 way mark and not due for a change yet. Feels like it might stall - it hasn't yet. It definitely climbs hills much slower than it has in the past but this is nerve-wrecking - especially when there are no mechanics working on the weekend.
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In 2006 I purchased a 2004 5-speed manual shift Nissan Xterra 4x4 with 19k miles on it, it looked and ran like new.I live in Florida, during the Summer of 2010 I noticed that when I accelerated from a standing start (like at a traffic light) as I shifted through gears 1-4, at some point the RPMs would rev up but the car was accelerating very slow. The only time this doesn't happen is in 5th gear or in 4WD-high or 4WD-Low. This problem is not consistent, it happens occasionally but enough times that I've had to alter the way I accelerate to avoid this problem, ie accelerate very very slowly.
I have taken my Xterra to my local Nissan dealer, twice, they cannot replicate this problem no matter what they do; drive it cold, drive it hot, fast, slow, cold weather, hot weather, no matter, they can't replicate the problem.
I have read here and there on the 'net (we all know the 'net never lies) that the transfer case on 4WD's can act squirrelly or could even be a simple case of replacing the transfer case fluid.
Why this "slippage" is happening and how can it be fixed? This is of concern only because if I have to accelerate hard (like when a locomotive is looking to T-bone me) I'd like the Xterra to get up and go rather than pause and reflect over the lilies of the field while Thomas the train is bearing down on me.
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2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
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I've noticed distinct engine knocking noise under acceleration/load especially at lower RPMs on a '14 TSI. I'm at 20k miles and wondering if cheap gas from ARCO is the culprit.
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My car is accent 1.4 A/T 2012, and lately I've been hearing this metallic knocking sounds underneath my car. it happens every time after i drove my car for a longer distance and even on a shorter distance with no minimum running speed, you can hear the metallic knocking sounds whether the engine is on or off. Sometimes it is too loud you don't have to go out from the car you just have to roll the window down to hear it.
I've brought this already to my dealer and told me it was normal but I don't want to accept their answer so i refer it to another hyundai dealer. the second dealer made an adjustments on the muffler and catalytic something and even upgraded the CEU but to no avail and even adjusted my steering preload. BUT I'm still hearing it!! What to do.
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I am seeking to identify a problem my hyundai accent model 2009. when it s cool or started with a time period gap between four to five hours. it some times not start with a try of three to four times and then start but giving some knocking sound, it went away after five minutes . once start and warm it is ok and again started when warm.
I did computer check but it result is normal and have changed also the spark plug and fuel filter but problem still exist. the problem may in timing belt -or fuel pump may any other reason.
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The issue that I'm having is that when going up hills, the car like automatically starts slowing down basically losing power seems like. I have to put it in low gear and even so it sounds like its straining to get up the hill. No more than 20mph and then begins to drop lower. When going up drive way I have to make a complete stop and then proceed else it will stall. Also, when at stand still in traffic car shuts off. Sometimes I can feel it vibrate before it shuts off other times it just shuts off. took to western auto and they don't know whats wrong with any of the issues. They just said there is nothing wrong with my idle and to put a gas cleaner in when i full the tank up, that didn't work.
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