Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Taps Consistently On Cold Start Up
Nov 11, 2014
On cold start ups only I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's a consistent sound that goes away after the engine warms up and idles down. Could it be the belts? I'm not concerned to be honest because the engine runs fine.
NOTE: I have also noticed that when cold in between shifts the vehicle seems to hesitate, almost as if trying to catch up. Hard to explain, but it only happens when the engine is cold.
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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Lately my transmission has delayed shifting into first when I shift my car into drive on cold starts. It delays for usually about 2-3 seconds then kicks hard into first. The rest of the shifts are smooth and on time. I've tried replacing my transmission fluid, but that doesn't seem to fix it. Is there an actual problem with my transmission? I had the TCM replaced when it would get stuck and not shift. I have a 2009 GLS with around 53k on it.
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Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
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The problem I am having is when the engine is cold it will not start. I can push start it and it will fire. Once I have drove it and the engine temp has gotten up I can shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours come back and it fires right up. If I leave it for 3 or 4 hours and come back the car will not start I have to push start it again. If I spray a little starter fluid in it it will try to fire but will not start except on 2 occasions where the starter fluid started the car.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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We have taken our 2006 Pontiac Vibe to two different mechanics numerous times trying to find out what's wrong, but they told us that the car needs to not start for them in order for them to diagnose the problem. The issue with this is that every time we leave it with them, it starts just fine, and they charge us $45 per night to leave it there. We are scared to use the car because we don't want to be stranded somewhere when it randomly doesn't start.
Symptoms:
- Starts sometimes, but not consistently (once every week or two, it just won't start)
- The car sounds like it is almost going to start, as we are hearing more than just clicking, but for some reason the engine just never gets to that final rumble to stay on.
- When the issue occurs, the car will sometimes start if we try again minutes or hours later
- Jumping the battery seems to get it start.
Previous Attempts:
- Already changed the battery
- Already gotten a tune-up and oil change
As I said, we are incredibly frustrated, as this problem is not consistent enough to show up for the mechanic, and therefore renders us with an unreliable and undiagnosable car.
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I have a Hyundai accent 2007, I guess the brain box is faulty, the engine will crank fan roll etc but won't start at all, can dis reset work for it at all ...
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Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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Has the engine cover on, hear rattling when they first start up their car? It only last about three seconds, and its only from a cold start normally.
I was told not to worry about the sound because its just the engine cover rattling a bit, but it is rather annoying. It makes quite a racket. Should I just take the cover off?
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Recently, our 2009 Sonata jumps to relatively high and not normal RPM when start cold (and I don't mean winter-cold; I mean first start in the morning). It jumps to around 2500 rpm for 3-4 seconds before it goes down to the normal 1200-1300 or so for a cold start.
Also, not sure if this is the normal Sonata engine sound, but when we push the accelerator it sounds like the engine is knocking, almost like a whistle of fuel flowing.
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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I go in this week to recheck my nagging check engine light. Flashes after a warm start, then stays on. Been there once already for it, it has come on too after a cold start... Last time they said it was a very vague miss fire code.... It did shake a bit... On the plus I get to drive a nice new Elantra again.... On the down, I never want my car back after driving it ...
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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2008 Accent 234,000 miles, Auto. I have an issue with my A/C that I can't seem to get a handle on. The A/C does not blow cold all the time.
Blows cold - When driving all the time. While sitting still IF it is cool out. Cools to around 48 degrees in the morning.
Does not cool - When sitting still and it is hot out. Has blown over 100 with outside temps around the same.
Freon levels are fine. Sounded like an airflow problem so I replaced the condenser fan and it did not work. Both fans are running when the A/C is on.
Something is turning off the compressor when it is hot and I'm not driving. I did notice one day that the high side A/C line was extremely hot to the touch. Does this system have a high pressure switch? Could it be a high pressure issue only when the compressor gets hot?
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