Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Tapping Louder Than Ticking
May 16, 2015
Came off the highway just now and there's a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's louder than the ticking these engines make so believe me it's nothing I've heard before. No codes, no overheating and doesn't seem to be anything else wrong. I am due for an oil change soon and I'm wondering if that could be it?
The engine wasn't cold obviously. I did shut off the car and then back on and it still did it. Just want to make sure my engine isn't going to explode anytime soon!
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Alright so my car is up to 112k miles, other than oil change, a battery,tires, and a new ignition (tumblers fell apart somehow) its had zero maintenance really done to it. Which I know, this means its long over due for things like spark plugs, timing belt, and other mic. stuff. Its almost all highway miles, and really has no problems. I haven't put much into it because it hardly gets driven in the summer since I ride my motorcycle. The only issue is that Indiana has had a lot of rain this year so ive been driving it more.
The Problem- for months now its made a light ticking sound on start-up for about 30 seconds, and it fades away. If I rev the engine the sound gets faster, but still takes time to go away. As of Recently, the sound has gotten louder for about the first 10 seconds, and I'm worried it may become a serious issue and leave me stranded because I drive about an hour one way to work every day. So before I start throwing parts at it, where should I start?
Timing belt?
Valve Adjustment? (not sure how to do this but I'm sure there is a guide)
Plugs?
No I'm not running a FRAM Filter, its a Mobile 1, with full synthetic oil changed about every 6-7k miles. I plan to do the belt and spark plugs as soon as I get some consistent time off, but that may not be until it gets cold again.
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Engine ticking not there when its cold but when it warms up, it gets louder.
I took a 3 hour drive to Memphis, TN and when I got there, the ticking was gone. it sounded like it brand new with 0 miles. I opened up the hood to see maybe it just quieted down but no, it was gone. if you put your ear to the engine cover you can hear the direct injection but faintly.
check the video - Ticking 08 gs350 awd - YouTube
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Have a 2006 Sonata GLS with a 2.4 mileage has rolled over 207k .... I started hearing a slight ticking noise from the top of my engine and it has slowly gotten louder, now it can be heard inside the vehicle and more so when revving the engine...it also has 2 stored codes P0011 and P0456, I'm not too concerned with the evap code at the moment, I have decided to replace the oil control valve and clean or replace the lash adjusters...here is my problem, I have mechanic experience but only on Honda, all the youtube videos I have found for valve lash adjustment or replacement are for Mitsubishi and chevy engines, so I am not sure what the adjusters actually look like on this engine and if I can even do them without removing the timing chain.
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My engine has been making a ticking sound when it starts and when i hit the gas the ticking sounds stays there but go faster depending on my rpms and before it would go away after the engine got warm but now its here to stay. What it could it i feel like sound is hitting against the acceleration cable.
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as the title says, my 2010 accent is at 81,000KM and i hear a ticking sound? is it the timing belt? when driving i dont hear any ticking but once stopped or idling i hear ticking and it never stops til i accelerate.
If it is timing belt, does this mean time for replacement? or what could it be?
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Year of vehicle: 2007
Make of vehicle: Mazda
Model of vehicle: 3i Touring
Mileage/Kilometers: 80,000+ Miles
My Mazda 3i has been acting up a bit lately, where the engine has been getting louder (particularly in 4th gear, though it's a pretty quiet car so I might not be able to tell in lower gears). This morning, there also was a faint ticking, 1/second or so that went away once the car warmed up.
Recent work that has been done to it: Brakes replaced, Oil changed, fluids topped off.
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My engine in my 2002 Santa Fe 2.7 v6 has been making a ticking sound that was especially pronounced when cold starting. It would quiet down somewhat when warmed up but still a slight ticking would be there. I thought it was the hydraulic lash adjusters. I know Hyundai's service site sates that a ticking can be heard if the factory filter is not used. I tried using the factory oil filter which did not make a difference. The car had about 85,000 miles on it and I always maintained it well as well as keeping up with oil changes. I took it to the dealer to have a repair performed related to corrosion of the rear trailing arms and had the tech check the engine noise.
It was determined that the cam chains have developed slack and were slapping on the cam chain guides which prevent the cam chains from popping off in case of slack developing which was the case here. The chain guides are made of some type of plastic material and according to the tech showed significant wear. This was all covered under the powertrain warranty. For those that are not under warranty any longer and are capable of doing their own repairs this is the list of parts that was ordered by the dealer. The parts in red are the culprits. The rest are gaskets and seals. I don't think this is an easy job.
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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My wife has an 09 accent equipped with the 1.6 and 5spd manual. When it gets cold (close to freezing and under) fourth gear starts to make a whining/growling noise that gets louder with more load. Once it is warm it completely goes away. What is going on here?
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Starting at about 30mph there's a humming noise that gets louder as speed increases. It doesn't seem to change if I am steering right or left and i have no steering wheel shake or any sort of noticeable bumping at 60mph. Could this just be my tires making noise, they are quite worn by now.
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2009 Accent with a manual transmission
I am at about 65K miles so far. I changed my oil last night like I normally do. The car was on rhino ramps and as I started the car to back off the ramps, I noticed a very audible, "Tap tap tap" noise on start up, only. It goes away a second after I let off the key turn once the engine catches.
It did this when I backed it off the ramps and then when I shut the car off and waited a minute to check for it again on level ground and the same thing happened. Only two times and it has been quite as a mouse on start up since ever since. I want to say it is starter related as the noise sounds like a rapid tapping that slows and immediately stops as if the starting gear that engaged the flywheel is slowing to a stop once disengaged.
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I have a 2010 Accent. My Accent has a tapping sound when the engine is cold. I have read on this site that others have had this problems and it was the chain tensioner. I was wondering if this was something Hyundia would fix for free or how much it cost to get this fixed. Is there a recall for this problem? There appears to be a problem with a chain tensioner on the 2010 model of Accent.
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My mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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2008 Accent. Timing belt broke. Took the head off and had valves replaced (2) and head work done. Had everything put back together. Car runs. Except it makes a slight ticking sound when warm. When it's cold it ticks a lot.
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Had this happen to me a few times now. Driving down the highway (120kph) in 5th, revving around 3,000 or so and whenever I hit a hill and come onto the gas pedal, I hear a ticking sound coming from up front. The harder I press on the gas - the louder it gets and vice versa.
Only happens in 5th and only under load. Scanned for codes - nothing, looked under the hood - looks normal. Timing belt was done around 56,000km, car has about 67,000km now and is in fantastic shape otherwise.
Spark plugs are still original and I have a new set waiting to go in, drive belts were replaced back in the spring but the tension is correct and all pulleys were checked okay at the time.
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My '07 I4 has 92K on it, I have only owned it for 450 miles of that. It has a bit of a rough idle sitting at a light, but fine otherwise, it did stall on me once at startup. I put some Seafoam in the fuel tank and ran that entire tank, I now have regular gasoline in it. The rough idle isn't any better but I have another issue.
The day after putting in the Seafoam, on a cold startup (36 degrees), I had a lot of valve/lifter/injector/VVT ticking, not sure which. It was worse that one time and it lasted for the first 4 miles of driving and only ticked when I was under load, not at idle.
As time has progressed I have no serious ticking, but it does make a louder ticking/rattling/clacking, whatever you want to call it, until it warms up, about 4 miles.
I heard reference to VVT issues or VVT gears, I'm used to my '06 Tacoma V6 and I know nothing about this issue.
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In my 2007 Sonata, I hit a poorly placed high manhole cover in a dip in the road, in the dark, going 30MPH, whacked it good before I could adjust...
I then pulled the car over, it seemed to go dead, then the car did crank back up, the engine sounded much louder, like a loud rev/hum, not quiet like usual.
I next drove a mile to a c-store, transmission seemed OK, no leaks, did see a check engine light briefly, but it disappeared. Car cranked OK, headed home, same sound right at cranking and at moderate speed.
Finally, I jacked the car up on the front left, from research appears that the plastic engine shields got smacked good along the front and near the right tire and bent back quite a bit on the left side. There seems to be no other structural damage that my untrained eye could see, just one indention you'll see in a couple of the photos that I think is part of the car design at that spot.
Again, no leaks, no smoke, no caution lights of any kind now.
Photos are attached...
My Hyundai's engine now sounds like a Mustang! Hoping it's just the engine noise from these plastic covers now being bent/destroyed in some spots, exposing the engine and the typical noise you'd hear without them...
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We bought a 2006 Prius for my college student son to drive with a engine noise. It runs fine but has a loud tapping on the top of the engine. We decided to do a whole engine swap due to the mileage on the original car.
We got a engine with 80xxx miles on it and are beginning the swap in the morning. I have read a few threads on swaps and are trying to make like a checklist of things to disconnect etc to make sure we don't damage any wires or other components on removal.
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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