Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Dies When Comes To A Stop?
Sep 16, 2014
In the last 6 weeks my 2007 Accent has died when I've come to a stop. Once in traffic on the freeway and the rest at stop signs or lights. The car will start back up and won't die again for a week maybe. Nothing consistent. I took it to a mechanic and nothing shows up on the computer. I took it to the dealer, still nothing on the computer. He cleaned the throttle body I think and put an additive in the tank. Two days later it died at a stop sign. Automatic transmission. Ok, what's the problem?
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It is a bit 'of time that my engine have some loss of power with bumps that is not much noticeable and, for now, only just annoying while driving. But lately it has happened that, especially with the AC turned on, the engine dies during gear shift. I noticed that when this happens, the engine rpms drops more fast than normal, causing rough idle for 3-4 seconds (it go down to ~4-500 rpm) and subsequent automatic acceleration from the ecu to ~1200 rpm to settle again to the normal idle (~700 rpm). When this happens if the AC is on, sometimes the engine dies.
I checked the idle control valve and it work good and it's clean. The spark plugs have less than 5000 km, spark wire are good and also coils are in line with the reference values, Primary Coil 0.87 Ω 10% at 20 C (68 F), Secondary Coil 13.0 kΩ 15% at 20 C (68 F) (I don't have the coil on plug but external coil version, like this: [URL] ....)
The only thing a bit 'strange that I noticed is that the throttle position sensor has a strange range when i check it with an obd2 scanner. The idle % reported is 8,7% and at full throttle is 87,5%. I never removed or changed this sensor. If I remember correctly once I unplugged its connector, but the engine was turned off. Is this the normal range??? There is some reset procedure for this sensor?
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I have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
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I bought a 2009 Hyundai Accent used at 110.000Km. I've only been driving it for 3 weeks and today I went to start the car and it turned over and died right away. It did this a couple of times then it finally started fine and I was able to drive it. What it could be?
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Whenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
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Got a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
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Immediately after I fill my 2006 Hyundai Accent with gas, the engine shudders, then dies. The only way to keep it running is to press down the accelerator and rev the engine up for a few minutes, then slowly back off. My mechanic said I need an new fuel pump, so he replaced it, but it didn't solve anything. I still have the same problem every time I fill up. What's causing this and did I just pay for an unnecessary fuel pump?
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Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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I have a 1998 gmc sierra 2500 truck when i start it it runs just fine but after i have driven it awhile when i go to stop as soon as i come to a stop the engine revs up and down and it dies it will not do it if i am in neutral or the engine is cold, what could be causing that....
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Not brake squeal but a squeak that is emanating from the drivers side springs or shocks. There's no noise while driving or stopping, just when you come to a complete stop and inertia sends the car forward slightly you can hear it.
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I have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
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My friend has a 2007 Hyundai Accent. I don't have any picture so I'll try to explain as best as I can. He has a problem with the braking light that is on the spoiler (it's an hatchback). All lights are very dim and flickering while the two bulbs on the right are solid. I believe the light assembly is dying and need to be replaced with new bulbs. The problem I have is I am not able to get to the assembly. I have the manual shop but it doesn't include instructions for the hatchback version.
There's a few black bolts/screws on the trunk lid. I removed those, but the spoiler doesn't want to move at all. I see 3 plastic trim that are beige. I believe there's more screws behind those. I don't know where the plastic holder are for the trim so I didn't try to remove them (I don't want to brake them!!). See the attached picture with the red circle for the black screws I am talking about.
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I have a two door hatchback (2010) and I love it! Simple as it is, I just can't complain. I think it is fun to drive, and easy on the fuel budget. But I digress. Because I am new to these cars, I am learning about the noises it makes and if they are normal or not. My question is this:
When driving around with the A/C on, I notice - as I come from any speed to a stop - that the A/C pump becomes audible and seems to "Wind Down." I can hear a little "whirring" or "groaning" sound which goes away (dies down) after a moment. It isn't terrible, and maybe it is normal. I just don't know! If it is not a ordinary operating noise, then to the shop we go! Also, I am going to install an aftermarket Cruise Control.
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So today I noticed a weird noise coming from the back from the car when i stop like a *clack clack clack* it doesn't always make the noise so i cant replicate it, what is it? I am taking it to the dealer next week but an insight will be good....
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
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Accent 2006. When I start the car and start to drive, the car rock on the driver's side. I think it's the driver's rear. Then the feeling of a flat tire is felt but the tire seems to be ok. Occasionally hear a loud noise like from the exhaust and when I stop at a stop sign or stop lights and release the brake the car does not move till the accelerator is pressed and it rocks again and moves. It has 99000 km on it.
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I have an Accent 2008 model and i have a problem with the steering of my car. Sometimes the EPS lamp indicator turns on and the electric motor stop working. I stop the engine of my car and i turn it on again and everything is ok. Is any solution or i must change the whole steering system as Hyundai said?
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
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Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
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