Accent MC (2006-11) :: EPS Indicator Turns On And Electric Motor Stop Working
Jun 18, 2014
I have an Accent 2008 model and i have a problem with the steering of my car. Sometimes the EPS lamp indicator turns on and the electric motor stop working. I stop the engine of my car and i turn it on again and everything is ok. Is any solution or i must change the whole steering system as Hyundai said?
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For the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
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Today I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
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Got a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
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2008 Hyundai Accent 3 door the automatic transmission indicator light on the center console is not working anymore.
There is no mention of it in the Owners Manual. Every other bulb is referenced. Should I junk it or replace the bulb?
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I have a problem with electric power steering in the Lexus GS300 2006. System indicator does not light up even in the moments after ignition, fuses are OK. Where is the power steering module ?? I looked next to the brake pedal but it is not there...
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06' prius that I believe to be abnormal behavior. Just took the car on a 360 mile round trip. After about an hour of driving (Interstate 78mph) I happened to notice on the Energy screen that the car started to use the electric motor steadily for about 5 minutes of driving on flat terrain (Kansas). I watched as the SOC went from 5-6 bars down to 1-2 (purple). At which time the car started experiencing bouts of high rpm on level terrain/small hills. It stayed in this state for over 20 minutes or so of driving. It acted like it knew it needed to charge the hybrid battery, however the level never increased until such time as I exited the interstate and started braking. I am assuming that the HV battery should rarely discharge that much traveling at highway speeds on flat terrain.
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The low fuel indicator light has quit working on my 1999 Honda Civic. My wife ran out of gas one night and I want to fix it. The fuel gauge itself still works.
I removed the instrument cluster and found that the bulb does work.
I got to the top of the gas tank by swinging the back seat bottom cushion out of the way. I unplugged the three electrical connectors there and inspected the wiring. It all looked OK and I plugged things back together.
It will take some driving to get to a low-fuel condition and see if the light is somehow working now. If i does not, what next? Replace the fuel gauge sending unit in the gas tank? (It seems the switch that turns on the low-fuel indicator light is incorporated in that unit - is that right?)
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2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i ... My vehicle struggles to start. Symptoms present at what seems random and the rest of the time it starts up no problem. I turn the key and the motor turns over a few times without starting then stops turning over yet still sounds as if the ignition and starter are still functioning, just with out success. No grinding or clicking, but the very audible sound of the car trying to start remains, but with out the cyclical turning of the motor. If I continue to keep the key turned for several seconds it sometimes will turn over again and start sluggishly but not always. I replaced the battery and it had no effect.
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Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
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I installed a set of bi-Xenon HIDS identical to these.
in my wife's 2008 Accent. I unplugged the DRL module as shown in a thread I found here, but now there's no high beam indicator on the dash. Is there a wire on the plug that I can put a jumper on or something to make this work again?
And before all the nay-sayers growl at me, instead of assisting with this problem, I aimed the lights really low so there's minimal glare to oncoming traffic. We drove about 125 km last night with them and never got high-beamed once.
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I have a 2006 manual Hyundai accent with 82,000 kms. In the last couple of days the mil has illuminated so i took it to a mechanic who put it on the computer which he says it could be sucking air or bad fuel or many other things. He did cancel the light which stayed out for about 70 kms and its back on its not flashing just illuminated. Can this do any damage to the motor if still driving.
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I bought a 2009 Accent last week after my 1987 Camry wagon bit the dust. It has 47000 km and seems to have been very well maintained. The only problem I have noticed is that the high beam indicator light does not come on, although the hi beams do work. I downloaded an owner's manual but am not sure which fuse the indicator light is on; in any case, everything else seems to be working so I expect the bulb is burned out. My problem : I don't know its location on the instrument panel since it has never worked, and I don't know if it is possible to replace it without special tools.
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For the past few months my bower motor will stop working. It could stop while I'm driving. Or not work when i start the truck, then start working while I'm driving down the road. When it was working it worked fine. It had the different fan speeds like it was supposed to. It would just not work at all, or work fine. Now it doesn't work at all. I checked all fuses, and swapped the relay for the windshield wiper relay that i know works and still nothing.
I unplugged the blower motor and put 12v to it and it didn't work so i thought i found the problem. Took out the blower motor put power to it again and it spun just fine. Plugged it back into the harness and it worked other than no low speed. Flipped the switch back and forth, then low speed worked, up to high, but no difference between speed 2-3. Put it all back together and it seemed like all the speeds were working fine. Day later, won't work at all again.
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2006 Hyundai Accent
About two weeks ago I was told my tires were worn and I was experiencing what felt like a slight slipping sensation when turning corners on the highway. Mechanic chalked this up to my tires being worn. They checked them out and my passenger rear tire was significantly worn on the inside tread...
I replaced all four tires...I have checked the pressure and it is at 30psi as indicated on the inside of the driver side door.
Now when I'm driving on the highway I experience what can be described as a rocking sensation (as if you were on a boat) sometimes when driving straight and almost always when making left turns....once the rocking starts if I slightly turn the wheel to the right it goes away.
I'm thinking something with the rear passenger side is causing this as the compensation would appear on the drivers front (correct?!) and the worn tire gives it away...just wondering what component I should start looking at first and what cost I might be looking at.
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I have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
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After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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Heard a wining noise from the front end when I accelerated about 4 days ago, fast forward to today - it kept getting worse and worse, turning into a grinding. The mechanic said to replace the power steering line and something else around it..
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2008 Hyundai 4 door accent, red "air bag" light turns on with turn of key, goes off for 2 seconds, then lights back up and remains on...
Thought maybe it was because i left the back seat folded down for almost a week, but since then i have placed it back completely into position. Disconnected the battery and re-connected it, still stays on..
I have also driving almost 200 miles with the seat back in normal position, was hoping it would re-set by now.. I recently installed a stereo system in the car, everything got hooked up to the factory stereo, and the light didn't come on for almost 2 weeks after the install.. Could it be because of the back seat being folded down?
My subs hit pretty hard, could this be enough to trigger some sensor? I have two Rockford Fosgate 12" P2 subs, powered by a RF 1000 watt amp. I've asked many Car Audio specialist about air-bags deploying from hard hitting bass, and i pretty much got laughed at every time, none of them have ever herd of it happening, and i would think by now there would be some videos on you-tube of this happening.. I cant find anything anywhere saying airbags have ever been deployed from hard hitting bass...
I've also herd moving the front seats forward and back could trip some kind of sensor? My fiance is only 5'2 and i am 6' and its our only car so needless to say the seat gets moved quite often.. I know i should go to the dealer and have it hooked up to the "code reader" .. Just don't want to look stupid when i show up..
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Our second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
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Upon cranking my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and driving app. 10 miles the speedometer and odometer will stop working and the motor will sound strained for the rest of the driving time. The rpm's go up and it dies from time to time when making a quick stop or turn. It starts right back up. The next day upon starting again the process starts all over. What's the problem?
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