Accent MC (2006-11) :: Driver Side Headlight Dim But Not Out
Nov 22, 2014
My driver side headlight is dim but not out. Passenger side is normal. Ive checked under dash fuses but maybe not the correct ones? These are brand new bulbs. I replaced them because my driver side went completely out with my hid set up.
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Last night the passenger side headlight did not come on low, but when i switched to high beam it came on. It goes out only on low beam. The driver side headlight works both high and low. Is there a fuse for passenger side low beam? I wiggled the wires and connector to the bulb itself with no luck.
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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So on my 06 passat, the headlight on the driver's side is crooked like severally to the point I have to use my brights at night. Do these cars come with motion headlights? How would I go about fixing this or do I need a new headlamp???
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After detailing my car and prepping for winter I noticed moisture in the driver's side headlight. I know this is a common problem with many makes and models besides Lexus and I've done quite a bit of research to re-seal the light. I want to start with the basics first such as checking the vent tube for clogs. Need to point out that vent tube in a photo? I've looked all over and cannot seem to find this tube.
When I was detailing I was using a high-pressure washer. There was quite a bit of moisture and it dried within a few days. I was hoping it was from the high-pressure washer but now it came back. It seems to have come back just from using the headlight washer when I used my windshield washer.
I double checked the dust cap and o-ring seems to be fine. My next task is to remove the headlight assembly and reseal. I've read that some people have luck with just applying a bead along the seal without completely disassembling the lens and resealing (baking method). I'd rather not have to do the entire baking method although I know that can be more thorough.
Am I missing anything here in terms of other known causes? And would a clogged vent tube really cause this?
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My driver's side bulb at times will just go completely off. Is it the bulb or the ballast shooting craps?
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Lately I noticed that my headlight beams are crossed between passenger and driver side....
When I start up the car, the headlights move down and up for the initializing... all seems fine... While I backing my car out of the garage, I notice that my light beam start to drift closer to each other as I back out further and then finally crossed... the beam from my passenger headlight ended up on the driver side.... and the beam from my driver headlight ended up on the passenger side.
My AFS lamps are working and initializing when the car turn on.
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Drivers side headlight is very dim or not even working with new bulbs. Occasionally it will come on. High beam light is always very dim until you click high beams then its bright blue
Short?
Bad switch??
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I have a Subaru Forester 2006. This year, noticed condensation in driver's side headlight after a heavy rain. Not too long after, the headlight blew. (My headlights have been blowing at a frightening rate, but that might be a different thread for another time.). We changed the light and did our best to dry out the inside of the housing. We also checked for leaks by blowing air into the housing, with no luck at finding anything obvious. We put a little flashing on the inside, thinking there might be a problem with the rubber gasket.
Next rain, same problem. We also noticed in a parking lot another Forester, similar vintage, with condensation in both of its headlights. Is this a known problem...
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My sunroof seems to need an adjustment. It is not sealing on the rear of the sunroof on the drivers side. I can no longer access the shop manuals for free at the hmaservice.com. Looking to find info on how to adjust it.
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My drivers side windshield wiper is missing a band about 3" wide in the middle. I bought aftermarket blades but is still missing the same band.
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Recently replaced the head and gasket on 2010 accent blue. Torqued to factory specs. There is an oil leak between the head and block in the front driver side. Can i tighten that bolt? Is there a break in period, do i need to re-torque or buy another gasket and head bolts?
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My driver side is higher than the passenger, how do you adjust the headlights?
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2006 Accent. Today I was stunned to find the inside driver's handle no longer opened the door : I'm sitting here with my door panel almost completely off, the only thing I'm stuck on is the manual window crank
I've been searching around google and here, all I can really find is that it's a huge PITA, and you're supposed to use a hook to pull out a C-Clip.
I really can't see this C-Clip. Or even make contact with it, if it is there. I've been pulling the crank back and peaking inside ever so slightly and I'm just not seeing anything. With a hook in there, I spun the crank hoping I'd feel a 'bump' or 'nudge' of the clip against my hook (bent metal wire), but honestly I've got nothing.
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We purchased our 2009 Accent 4 door used about 3 years ago and it came with only one keyless remote. Last week we began having problems with the keyless remote sometimes not locking the driver's door. It usually locks the other 3 doors on the first press of the button, but it usually takes 2 or more presses to get it to lock the driver's door. It always unlocks the driver's door on the first press. I replaced the battery in the keyless remote fob, and opened and closed the hood and trunk with no effect. We still have the original battery in the car.
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I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
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My Drivers side headlight points slightly higher than my passenger side headlight. Is this normal or do I need to adjust, and if so how do I adjust?
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I dropped off my 2012 Passat to the dealer this morning because the driver's DRL was out and the passenger headlight was out. Normally I'd change bulbs myself and be on my way but since this is new and under warranty, I let them do the work.
Anyway, fixed the DRL (bad bulb). But the passenger headlight assembly needs replacing. Seems I have fallen victim to a melted housing causing a failure. I've read about the situation somewhere here on the forums and suspected it might be the case. So VW is 2-3 days out on getting a new part and I'm in a loaner for the time being.
I'm guessing this happens a lot with this part. I wonder if VW will issue a recall in the future.
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Have a 2004 accent that is having an issue with the passenger side headlight going out. Checked bulb and it s ok, put it all back together and light works fine.
The plastic at the top fitting for the connector to the bulb is melted took connector off to check voltages at the three pins and have 12v on each pin( i don't think this is correct sounds like they are shorted out) , on the drivers side headlight top pin has about 2.3 v( for high beam) right side pin has 12v ( low beam) and left side pin 0 v( ground)
Also with the car off and parking brake off headlights do not come on only daytime running lights. Shouldnt headlights work on low and high beam with car off. All fine with car running.
What is the correct voltages for headlight connectors and if the headlights should work with car off.
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Yesterday my drivers side headlight was real dim and it was like a purple hue, today it is completely out and I got the light warning on the dash. My R has 23K on the odometer.
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I want to wire my foglights so they operate independently from the headlights.
I'm thinking it was just grounding the green wire going to the switch but not positive.
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