Accent MC (2006-11) :: Delayed Shifting Into First Gear When Put Car Into Drive On Cold Start
Dec 16, 2012
Lately my transmission has delayed shifting into first when I shift my car into drive on cold starts. It delays for usually about 2-3 seconds then kicks hard into first. The rest of the shifts are smooth and on time. I've tried replacing my transmission fluid, but that doesn't seem to fix it. Is there an actual problem with my transmission? I had the TCM replaced when it would get stuck and not shift. I have a 2009 GLS with around 53k on it.
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I bought my '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon as a CPOVW 6 weeks ago. It had 4700 miles on it. I complained about the transmission having a delayed engagement when shifting into reverse and drive. (it drives normally however with positive shifts and is very enjoyable) I was told it was normal and not to worry. (could it be designed-in to soften the engagement?).
This week I noticed a light "thunk" in the right front when re-applying power while coasting below 40 MPH. I never noticed it before but I usually strive for smooth driving so that may be why. I've had other Aisin Warners but they were in Volvos. I got out of a '99 Volvo Cross Country because I didn't trust the driveline. Am I going down the same road?
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I have a 1998 F-150 XLT, 2WD, 4.2L, V6, just over 103,000 miles. My transmission shifts fine into reverse but when I put it into drive it is very slow to engage, sometimes it doesn't. I have to put it in drive, hold down the brakes, give it some gas and then it will engage and lurch forward. I have check the fluid level and quality. Both are fine. This just started to happen two days ago with no fore warning. No previous problems with transmission.
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I own an automatic 2009 Accent. I'm at 95,000KM.
Anyway, the problem does not occur all the time and appears to be entirely random.
When I start my car, on occasion, the car will make a CLUNK sound when shifting from park to reverse or drive. When it does CLUNK, you can feel the car lurch as if something fell out of place. The sound is quite audible, even with the radio on. The sound and lurch is not as pronounced when shifting to reverse. It doesn't seem to happen when going to neutral but is very obvious when going to drive.
Turning off the engine and restarting it seems to resolve the issue. Once I had to restart the engine twice before the clunk stopped.
Attempting to drive when the car does this sound results in increased RPMS. Usually when driving the RPMS sit between 2000 and 3000 but would jump to between 3000 and 4000 when the clunk occurs. Usually, the car will want to crawl forward if I'm not on the brakes but with the clunk, the car need quite some gas to start going forward.
Here's where it gets scary:
On two occasions, while driving on the highway at 100km (65 miles), I'd feel something slip and then suddenly my RPMS jump up by 1000. On both occasions I had to pull over, turn off engine and restart the car and the issue stopped.
Clearly, whatever it is that changes gears is slipping but the fact that it slips while driving just freaks me out.
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Brother in law has the above truck with shifting problem. On a cold start, pulling out of the driveway, it will get to about 3-4000 rpm and will slam into gear. Sometimes its worse than others, but is consistant. Once it warms up, the problem goes away for the most part.
I've researched a little online and have found a few people mention the 1-2 shift accumulator (servo...?) and was wondering if any of you have ran into this or have replaced one on the A4LD.
And if you have, which servo is the 1-2 shift? I think there are 6 of the little suckers in there. Anyway, all i've done so far is fluid and filter. Old fluid looked/smelled fine.
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My '07 seems to stumble when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. At first I thought it was me as I spent the last six - seven years babying the tranny in my old Ford by 'lift shifting' but I've found it still does it somewhat when I'm accelerating and not letting off to let the car shift. Is this typical for the automatic in the Accent? I had the tranny serviced not 1,200 miles ago in June or July at Firestone and they assured me and showed me their fluid was compatible with SP III.
This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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My friend told me the other day her car was in overdrive (hwy driving) and suddenly, it shifted to a lower gear. It seems no one knows why. She does have an extended warranty, but the garage might charge her $300 to open it up to see what is wrong. Another friend suggested a clogged filter. Another one, a sensor.
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My 2009 Accent has some very rough shifts from 1st to 2nd when I'm in the low RPMs.
Hyundai performed a transmission fluid flush and the other gears shift completely effortlessly. Is my tranny dying or what?
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I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
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My transmission has been shifting rough and seems "delayed" in shift response.
I can only go from gears 1-3 without revving up to 3500-4500 RPM's before it will go ino 4th.
It does not hold RPM in 4, 5, or 6 and instead goes down to the normal idle spot.
I had it diagnosed and the codes are
P0761 Shift solenoid C Performance or stuck off
P0781
1-2 shift error
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Not all the time, but I've noticed it after the truck has been driven - shut off - then started again within a few min period. When truck is cold or has been sitting for an extended it starts no problem. By "delayed" I mean once I try to start the truck it takes a sec or two longer than normal before it cranks. Then when it does start it will idle very low for a sec or two then pick up and act normal.
So far I've done this to remedy it:
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- cleaned MAF sensor
- cleaned throttle body
- seafoam thru vac hose
Only thing else I suspect is weak fuel pump but looks like it was act up all the time not just when the truck is started back to back. Truck has good power when running, I did a couple short blasts up to 80mph and everything was fine.
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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On cold start ups only I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's a consistent sound that goes away after the engine warms up and idles down. Could it be the belts? I'm not concerned to be honest because the engine runs fine.
NOTE: I have also noticed that when cold in between shifts the vehicle seems to hesitate, almost as if trying to catch up. Hard to explain, but it only happens when the engine is cold.
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
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Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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I have a 2005 Accent GL (4dr Sedan) base model, 5 speed. I live in Canada (not sure if that will play a part); I notice that when I shift from first to second there is a 'clunk', not really a grind, and not a major clunk... but it's noticeable. As the car warms-up, it seems to be less pronounced (or maybe I start to ignore it). Is this something to worry about? or could it be the clutch plates.
I have had lots of bikes with wet clutches and this is 'normal' for a bike going into first gear. With the bike it's due to what I call Hydrolic-stick ... (2 or more) plates 'sticking' when you let the clutch out, one spinning faster than the other. Off topic now...
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
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After I start my Lesabre when cold, after about 15 minutes or so it starts idling high, usually about 1500 , but sometimes it's as high as 2300 while stopped at a light. And a few times it has been 3-4000 rpm after putting it into PARK. After it starts idling high it starts shifting late. If you shut the engine off and immediately restart it, it usually starts idling fine again temporarily. Engine has normal power and runs smooth and idles smooth. It has also randomly died a couple times while driving at 30-40mph but then immediately restarted as if there was no problem.
It has a P0121 code which is "throttle position sensor switch A circuit range/performance problem". It also has a P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) ", which I'm not sure is related to the issue because the check engine light had been on a long time before the idling/shifting issue started happening. Like in the neighborhood of a year and a half before the current issue, but it ran fine the entire time and got 30+mpg on the highway.
First thing I did to troubleshoot was to test the TPS and it seemed ok. Voltmeter readings were .4v with throttle closed and seemed to advance smoothly up to 4.4v at WOT. But, I tested it before the engine was hot and I don't have a Oscope. I then used some carb cleaner and shot it around the injectors and a few vacuum inlets to check for vacuum leaks, to no effect. Engine runs quiet and I don't really hear any vac leaks.
Next, I cleaned the idle air control valve which was pretty dang dirty, but that didn't seem to resolve the issue, although it may have had a slight effect because the issue seems to come and go some while driving now, but I'm not totally sure. I also tested the connector at the IAC and had voltage on all 4 pins between .4v - 11.4v approximately.
Lastly, I got the engine to reproduce the problem and then pulled and then reconnected these sensors one at a time while the engine was idling high:
MAF Sensor
TPS
IAC
Intake Air Temp Sensor
This didn't have the slightest effect on the engine... I'm thinking it might actually be the TPS or IAC but I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing damn near certain it's going to resolve the issue. Could a vehicle speed sensor cause this? How I should proceed from here? :?
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My 2001 Suburban, 1500, 5.3L, 2WD with 164k miles, has a problem with high idle and delayed shifting. The high idle occurs when the vehicle has been driven around for awhile. When I start it up, even when already warm, idle is normal (~600 rpm). After some time, however, it idles at 900 to 1100 rpm. The delayed shifting happens right away--almost like I have the tow/haul mode turned on.
I have cleaned out the idle air port, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the idle air control valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the engine temperature sensor, and unhooked the battery to reset things. It still idles high.
I first noticed this a few weeks ago when the battery died. After I put in the new battery, the idle was very low. So I cleaned out the idle air port and valve. Then it was high. I drove it around for a few days like that and then started replacing stuff, to no avail--still high. I also cleaned around the throttle plate.
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