Accent MC (2006-11) :: Cylinder 2 And 4 Misfiring Causing Car To Shake While Idling Or Speeding Up
Mar 29, 2015
Recently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5.
View 1 Replies
I have 2006 Subaru Forester that is idling roughly. 90k – oil change every 3k miles. Per diagnostic codes I learned that the 2nd cylinder was misfiring. I replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires, and an airflow sensor. Yet, my car still idles rough. The check engine light is solid and the cruise control is flashing. The idling problem only happens when stopped… after I get high rpms there is no shaking. I had someone disconnect the battery and reset the computer and the lights stayed off for about a week and idling was fine. Week later – the problem returned. I think this an electrical problem, but not sure if mechanical.
View 19 Replies
I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
View 9 Replies
While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
View 6 Replies
So recently my 2009 hyundai accent has been idling rough, and has been very sluggish when accelerating. Usually the rough idling is the worst when the car is first turned on and tends to tone down as the car keeps running. I had the codes red and I believe it was C0302 C0303 C0304, saying that cylinders 2-4 were misfiring.
I replaced the spark plugs which didn't fix the problem, although cylinder 4 did have a small amount of oil above the spark plug and a little bit more below the spark plug, I am not sure if that means anything useful or not. I don't have a way to check the coils directly but I swapped coil 2 with coil 1 and checked the codes again and it was still cylinders 2-4 misfiring, so I would imagine that means the coil isn't the problem. I then tried spraying WD-40 around the vacuum tubes, and if the intake manifold is on the back of the engine I tried spraying it around that gasket as well, but I didn't notice a change in the idle speed.
At this point I am not entirely sure how to proceed, from what I have read the issue causing a misfire would be either there isn't a spark, which seems unlikely at this point, or the mixture of fuel to air is wrong. That is the part I am unsure of how to diagnose/
View 4 Replies
I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
View 9 Replies
I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
View 2 Replies
My dad has 2006 passat 2.0T. In December 2010 he went overseas. During his absence the car was parked in garage and not in use.
So one day I decided to start the car and as soon as I turned it on the car made this noise and check engine light came on. Took the car to a private repair shop and found out the cylinder #3 was misfiring. The tune up for this car was due so I had all four spark plugs changed and the car ran fine for few days. Then couple of days later it started making the same sound and this time around the coil for cylinder #3 was replaced.
A few days after that check engine light came back and this time it was blinking and the engine was struggling to run, took it again to the workshop yesterday and this time another coil not sure which cylinder was replaced. (all this is done at a private workshop). I have a hunch that the car is going to run fine for a day or so and the problem is going to come back
I never had any major issues with it up until now. Bought this car new in 2006 from dealer. I am afraid that this might be a start of a downhill roll from here on I will drive the car tomorrow and see how it reacts.
View 7 Replies
Recently, I got a error code of P0172, that indicate mixture correction (bank 1) rich. Actually, air filter and spark plug have been replaced.
My avante is only 4 years. and 70k mileage. By the way, I found the engine shake heavily when idling.
View 1 Replies
So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
View 19 Replies
My 2000 Corolla has been a dog from the day I bought it, a few years ago. It struggles up hills or speeding up on the highway. I took it to a local garage and was told that one of the cylinders was fouling a spark plug with oil. The owner said the cylinder would need to be machined to correct the problem. The total cost of repairs would be about $1800. My question is, would I be better off purchasing a rehabbed cylinder and having him put it in? Is this even possible? BTW, the car only has 132k miles on it, which is not a lot for a Corolla.
View 16 Replies
I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
View 7 Replies
Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
View 4 Replies
Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
View 4 Replies
So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
View 5 Replies
My girlfriends 2007 accent as thrown codes p0300 and p0302.
After reading everything I could find, I had coil pack on my list of possible problem items.
The car sat in the driveway yesterday and when she went to start it today, she couldn't get it to.
I got it to start when I got home by giving it some gas while turning the key, but I don't want to drive it anywhere.
The hard start is leading me to believe it's the coil pack.
I was going to start with changing the pcv, spark plugs, and run fuel injector cleaner through it because those are the cheap possibilities...but now may add in a new coil pack.
View 4 Replies
So I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
View 4 Replies
Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
View 29 Replies
Its going into overdrive to early causing it to shake at around 40mph but when I get to 50mph it go away or under 35mph it not there either what could that be??? Just got torque converter and trans done and checked it wasn't that.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent that won't start. My wife was driving home the other day, and while she was sitting at the light she said she noticed a sudden change in the idle. She said the car starting shaking a little and idling really rough. When she tried to accelerate after the light changed, she said the car sputtered and would barely go.
She was only a couple of blocks from the house so she continued home. The car made it the rest of the way home, but she said it never went over about 5 mph even though she was pressing the accelerator as she would if she were going about 30...the car just never responded. When she pulled into the garage the car died as she was turning. Now it will crank but it won't start at all.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor with my multimeter and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and I tested it immediately. The new one works, so I plugged everything back in and tried to start the car...nothing, just cranks and won't start. It's getting fuel and fire as well (tested both), but it's not hitting on any of the cylinders.
View 10 Replies
