Accent MC (2006-11) :: Coolant Temp Light Comes On And Remains Lit For 1 - 3 Minutes
Apr 18, 2013
After the car has sat for awhile 1-2 hours, when I start it back up the engine coolant temp light comes on and remains on for 1-3 minutes. This happens regardless of the ambient temp outside. It can be 40 degrees up to 80 and it will still come on. This started a few months ago, I have drained and flushed the cooling system, and wondering id this may be an indication that my thermostat is faulty and needs to be changed.
2008 Accent 3 door 159K ....
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Where the ECT sensor is located? I would really like to have a diagram of the engine. Where I can find an engine diagram for a 2008 accent gls?
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We just bought my Daughter a low mileage 2007 Hatchback Accent and I noticed the water temp light on the dash stays on for about 4 to 5 minutes after you crank the car up. Is this normal for this model? It is not low of water.
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I turned on the car today and about a couple minutes into my drive I noticed the airbag light was on. I pulled over, turned off the car, then turned it back on. The light came on with the rest of the warning lights, turned off when they all turned off, and then came back on a couple seconds later and stayed on. The car has just been sitting in my driveway. Only thing worth noting was that last night, while walking past the car, I noticed I had left one of the windows open. Also noticed my glovebox was open since I had gotten something out of it earlier in the day but forgot to close it. I turned the ignition half way to just use the battery to close the window (without turning the car on) and went to bed.
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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2006 durango 4.7 awd checked all recalls, none outstanding. The door ajar light remains on which means the interior light does while driving (along with the warning alarm beeps) and after leaving the vehicle also.
Been around all the doors to make sure they are shut, but cannot turn it off. Where would the switches be located on the doors or is there some other thing I should be looking for.
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I ran about 2 miles on EV then switched to HV 1/2 mile before getting on the freeway. After about 3miles red temp light came on Outside air temp was about 65. I was on a 2 mile long single lane transition so I was unable to get off the freeway. I slowed down to about 60mph from 70mph the light went off. The light was on for about 2min.
I got off the freeway and opened the hood. The coolant had over flowed puking coolant all over my clean engine. I was able to run EV to dealer to check. My guess was a stuck thermostat! Dealer just called me and after calling manufacture to discuss the the error codes and my symptoms, there best guess was a stuck thermostat.
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I bought a 2003 Jetta automatic w/ triptronic.
When the engine is cold in the morning(when i go to work) engine light(CEL) comes on and the car remains stuck in 2nd shift for 5-10 min(happens 1-2 times a week).
When I get back from work car goes well and the CEL is off.
I went to a shop and I found 4 codes:
00300- transmission fluid temperature sensor(G93). not a plausible signal-intermittent
00526- brake light switch- F short with power-intermittent
00652- gear monitoring not a plausible signal- intermittent
01045-tiptronic switch (F189) not a plausible signal- intermittent
I was thinking that it's possibly a transmission control module gone bad, but I'm not sure.
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My daughter has a 2001 Prius with about 165,000 miles on it. She was driving it and the red high temp light came on and stayed on. She also said that a few minutes later she lost power. She stopped and turned it off. Waited a few minutes, and started it again. The light went off and she drove it home about 5 miles. The light came on when she got home. No engine codes. I changed the thermostat. I filled it back up with fresh antifreeze and water and took out to test drive. No leaks. 2 miles down the road the light came back on. I stopped and checked it. upper radiator hose, hot and lower hose cold. Radiator not warm. Blowing out hot air with the heater. I think the water pump belt is on, as i am at work right now but will check as soon as I get home. I took the old thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water and it opened, so apparently it was the thermostat.
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I got my car back finally and on the way down the belt way i started sliding around a big turn and I get home to see my temp gauge way up and all the coolant went all over my engine .
I took it to a shop the did pressure test and that was fine, But the also found jell around the thermostat. The other thing they said is that it had air bubbles in it too. They said exhaust bubbles. But when they ran it it didn't heat up any more. They said its the early stages of blown head gasket ..
I took it to the dealer right away and they are telling me they cant find any thing wrong. Both places asked if i put stop leak in there but I never added anything to my car. So I am lost and don't know what to do.
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2010 Tiguan S FWD
My coolant temp light comes on randomly. It blinks and a sound beeps three times. After it stops beeping, the light continues to blink.
It doesn't come on all the time. It is very random. I connected the VAG-COM to see if there were any stored faults, but there were none.
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Today was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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Before someone says "normal" I know the low temp light is supposed to come on until the car reaches normal operating temp My problem is really strange and my mechanic and I are both perplexed. I have a 2008 Yaris automatic sedan with 98K miles on it.
The symptoms:
After driving for quite a while (30 minutes or more at times) the low temp light will come on... and sometimes goes right out... and sometimes goes on for a while.
If the check engine light isn't already on - it will eventually go on.
Sometimes with the low temp light is on - it will race the engine (just straight high rev) OR it will pulse the engine (like I am pumping the gas peddle) OR it will not let the car shift into high gear (rare). Remember... all of this happens after the car has been running for while so it warmed up.
What we've tried (over a 4 week period now):
The error code indicates to replace the thermostat - so we've replaced it... twice. We've replaced the actual low temp sensor. We've checked the wiring between the sensors and the computer - wiring does not appear to have a short. Last week we replaced the computer with a used one, but the same problem still exists with a replaced computer...
What the mechanic says now:Might be an air conditioning thing running the fan too long?
Can you really run a fan so long it will drop the car temp back to below the low range operating temperature while driving on a highway? That seems pretty unlikely to me.... If it were just a flickering light, I wouldn't be so concerned... but because it revs the engine (even when I am at a stop light and I have to push the brake harder so it won't start moving) and it sometimes wont shift into high gear... it's concerning from a safety perspective.
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Recently the temp sensor on my car goes all the way to H and then the light comes on saying I need coolant. It only seems to happen when I have the heat and/or defrost on -- if I turn the heat off the temp goes back to normal within a minute or so. (no problem using rear defrost)
First time it happened I pulled over, checked coolant level and added a little. The next time it happened I looked under the hood the next morning and coolant level was just fine.
Happens more often when I'm driving around town than on highway. Usually within about 5 minutes of driving in the morning the engine temp is all the way to H.
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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After about an hour of driving, the coolant temperature light on my 2010 GTI started blinking. The gauge never showed a temperature higher than the usual 190, including traffic and idling. Having reached my destination, I shut the car off and then back on, happy to see no warning lights at all. One dinner and some three hours later, I started back for home. 20 minutes into the drive, the car sounded three tones and the blinking light came on again.
Like before, the car drove without incident for the rest of the drive, and the light was no longer present once the car had been shut off and then on again. The owner's manual said that the coolant level might be too low, or the temperature too high, but neither of these seem to be the case. The car is equipped with GIAC stage I software and an Audi S3 intercooler.
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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