Accent MC (2006-11) :: Clutch Gone - How To Replace It
Jul 8, 2012
As the title states my clutch is almost gone , been teaching too many people how to drive 5speed and the other day when my girl was driving she burned it real hard and now I can totally notice its engaging very late..
My question is : We just put a stage 1 every clutch in the rx7 and it was amazing but they only make a OEM replacement.
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I've got an unknown issue with my 07 Accent (1.6L):
There is a low tone noise coming from near the upper area of the engine. It sounds like air or fluid traveling through a hose. The tone of the noise has recently become progressively louder, so that it is noticeable over normal road noise when driving. The noise does not fluctuate in tone or intensity with changes in RPM. However, the tone changes to a higher pitched frequency, almost like a hiss, when the clutch is fully engaged and held to the floor, both when in gear and when not in gear.
What the cause may be? And potentially required maintenance?
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One of the fog lamps on my 2009 Hyundai Accent has blown and I want to replace it, but I am not particularly technical. How to do this? Or any website or video tutorial.
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i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
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I found some threads about changing the license plate light on a 2009 Hyundai Accent and all of them involved removing the plastic trim inside of the hatch. However, I saw a few people mention that they broke a few plastic clips. I want to prevent breaking any clips.
Also, this ( hyundai-forums.com/184-mc-2006-2011-accent/94825-2009-accent-replacement-bulbs.html ) thread says that the replacement lights for the license plate are 168 or 168LL, but other posters say that they replaced them with white lights. What code are they?
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The passenger side door of my 08 Accent Hatchback got frozen after cold icy rainy night. I forced it open after few try, and found the rubber seal underneath the door was ripped off (ice in it). I put it back in, but after turn the engine on, the airbag light is on.
After some google, I think I damaged or disconnected the sensor in the passenger side door panel. How to fix it?
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I am getting a lot of noise from the clutch and brakes on my 2008 accent.
First the clutch: the noise is coming from the clutch release cylinder under the hood, at the front of the engine bay. I've tried lubing the cylinder, but it didn't work. Is there something else I can try, or do I need to replace the release cylinder to get back to a quiet clutch? Would a rebuild work? Is it even possible to get a kit to rebuild a clutch release cylinder?
I checked the hmaservice website, but the troubleshooting didn't have any mention of the clutch noise. I've seen plenty of references online to people having similar problems, but I haven't found any specific solutions (besides the standard "take it in and get it fixed" response). I'd love to take care of this problem without going to a garage.
That's been going on for a while, but the brake noise is new. It's a squeak noise that happens only as I release the brakes when the car is standing still. It's fairly quiet now, but I want to make sure that it's not going to lead into a bigger problem down the road.
I've done plenty of disc brakes in the past, but I've never worked on drums before. I'm not even sure if the noise is coming from one brake or all four. My best guess is that it might be the caliper pins that need to be lubed, but that's a complete shot in the dark guess...
What should I be looking for when I try to diagnose and solve this annoying noise. Is it something typical that happens with drums?
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My daughter was driving to work a couple of nights ago and ran over what she thought was a 2x4 blowing out the R/F tire. The next morning we got a new tire put on. She drive it back to work and when she came home, she said the engine was making a funny noise when she pushed the clutch in. I opened the hood and had her start it. No funny noises. I then had her push the clutch in and as soon as the hydraulic cylinder started to move out, I could hear a bearing noise which I attributed to the throw out bearing. I figured I would need to be putting in a new clutch soon and wondered why I hadn't done it when we put the new engine in last year. The next night, she called me from work and said the clutch didn't work and she coasted into her parking lot space at work. She said she tried to shift it into gear but it wouldn't, either with the engine running or not running. We put it on a trailer and towed it home. I think the running over the board and the possibility of the throw out bearing is just a coincidence but ???? The clutch cylinder does push the rod and throw out bearing fork forward but now no noise. Total failure of the T/O bearing??? This car has really been a test of my patience and wallet.
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2007 Accent with 86k miles. It's not very noisy but sounds a bit sick. It seems to shift fine.
I checked engine oil and the manual transaxle oil. Do I need a new clutch?
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Just bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
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2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
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2009 Accent 5 speed 66K miles. This is something which I recently noticed with the onset of winter. When I depress the clutch pedal, I have a very audible squeak. Think old door hinge squeak. So metal is rubbing against metal somewhere inside the bellhousing without enough lubrication.....not good. I pulled off the dust boot on the side of the bellhousing and tried my best to push moly grease around the clutch fork stud, hoping that was the origin. The noise went away for roughly a half a day but is back in full force....funny how cars do that.
Space seems EXTREMELY limited on lubricating the proper area. Or....is this a warning mechanism built into the clutch pressure plate assembly to warn of replacement soon? While I am asking these questions, what is a good time to look into replacing the clutch? The parts for the car seem relatively cheap, if I replace the clutch assembly, I may consider replacing the flywheel and clutch hydraulics as well as a whole system replace/refresh.
That aside, is there anyway to eliminate the squeaking without having to crack open the bell housing?
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At low speeds before coming to a stop the clutch shudders somewhat when I push it in. When quickly depressing the clutch when coming to a sudden stop....
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Ok, so I got my car at 60k miles, and the clutch went out almost instantly so I had the entire clutch replaced, and it was working just fine until now. It has been 25k miles since I did the full clutch replacement so it shouldn't be messing up again already. It is not going in to reverse at all, it goes in to 1st gear, but only after a lot of coaxing and grinding, and the clutch feels strange. The clutch is too soft (too easy to push down), but after a while it seems to get better.
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
Manual, hatchback
85k miles
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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Had the car for less than a week and I'm getting a constant chirping/cricket sound, the moment I touch the clutch even slightly it stops. Sound is gone when clutch is touched in any way or engaged. My first thought is Throw Out Bearing, or perhaps pilot bearing?
2010 GL Sport model.
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Need to replace the clutch on my wife's 2001 AWM. Its for her, no mod's, driven daily to work etc. I just want a stock style replacement that will last as long as the original (165k). Should I go with the stock replacement from Sachs or go with one of the Valeo style dual mass conversions? Does my car even have a dual mass? Can the OEM flywheels be resurfaced/turned?
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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Ive got a 2001 MKIV Golf GTI. Recently I've had some clutch problems, I kept returning to the car and finding the clutch on the floor. After a tow My mechanic managed to get it back after a lot of pumping and messing around, and told me It needed a Slave Cylinder. So that night after driving home (clutch wasn't feeling good) I came out and found the clutch on the floor again.
So I went out - got a new genuine slave cylinder and replaced it myself. But now I cant for the life of me bleed the clutch - I've bled brakes plenty of times but never a clutch. I am doing it manually, I've read online some guides.
1) Crack the bleeder & push pedal down... because its got that spring, it stays on the floor.
2) Close the bleeder, pull clutch up with hand...
Ive been doing this over and over and over, but nothing happens... fluid isn't even coming out of the bleeder. Im guessing this could be because the slave has no fluid in it and there is an Airlock?? I want to try to avoid getting another tow truck.
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I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
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I need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
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