I recently changed my spark plugs, timing belt, and PCV valve. I have a throttle bypass, air intake, only mods on the car. The car has been recently idling rough when in drive and at a light. basically the car wants to shut off but doesnt and the idle fluctuates. What it can be the car has 57k miles on it...
View 11 RepliesI have a 06 f350. Out of the blue my wipers will not shut off without pulling the 30 amp fuse in engine compartment . Even with ignition off.
View 7 RepliesProbably 20k ago the check engine light came on and was related to the "purge" valve as best I can recall, every mechanic I took it to kind of blew it off as just an emissions thing and not really necessary to fix. so whatever just let the light stay on as the car ran identical to before the light came on.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago and my wife was filling up between classes and after she was done and went to start it, it would turn over but wouldn't start completely, luckily a guy there pump the gas and revving it out as he turned it over. then it ran perfectly fine afterwards, started up perfectly after every time....until we got gas again.
Took it to a local guy a few people I know used, told him about the check engine light and maybe the purge valve thing had finally gotten bad enough to need replacing (this was my guess after some internet digging for the same issue), he troubleshooted and came to the decision to replace the front o2 sensor. Ok I said, your the mechanic not me, do it. did it and next time got gas....same thing.
he had it for another 2 days and "couldn't figure it out", refunded me completely for the o2 sensor & labor, while throwing in the towel today. Next up , Hyundai dealership I suppose. Car is throwing NO CODES whatsoever now, have put several hundred miles on since new o2 sensor.
While he had it he had to replace the master brake cylinder. So that's new as well. I've had to replace all the coils already between 75-85k they started acting up one by one so I said screw it and did them all.
OH and another problem is the airbag light has been on the dash for about the last 6-9 months as well.
The car has just over 111k on it and I've about had it, bullshit problem after another and another. What's next??! I've owned probably 7-9 cars in my life and nothing has given me the aggravation of this car.
Cliffs:
1) car won't start when putting in gas
2) starts if you rev it up for a short while, then will start every time afterwards til next fuel up.
3) o2 sensor is new
4) no more check engine light, no codes, yet still have issue
5) car is starting to wear down my patience with repairs
6) if not a cheap fix, bye bye Hyundai
Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Accent two door hatchback. The speedometer started jumping and then just quit along with the odometer. The odometer displays the last mileage but doesn't increase. I replaced the speedometer sensor in the side of the transmission and found two of the pins on the connector socket going to that sensor were burnt. I have now replaced the three connector, cable and it still doesn't work. The Hyundai part number for the HMC Extension cable is 43893-23011. So, I have a new cable and new sensor. What next?
View 70 RepliesI got me new accent 2011 but my odo doesn't display the computer trip that display the mileage and shift indicator and other stuff only show the km and trip....
View 3 RepliesI have had my 2010 Accent just over 2 months now, and have had no problems at all. It has 4500 miles on it (I travel often)
Starting on Monday, when I shut the car off, it made a kind of hollow pinging noise. I have not switched where I fill up my tank, nor have I been driving any differently, to make this happen. This happened again Tuesday morning, but has not happened since.
Then, this morning (Thursday) when I started my car, it made kind of a screeching noise. I immediately shut off the car, and restarted it. I did not hear the noise again. Then tonight, same thing happened.
I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
We purchased our 2009 Accent 4 door used about 3 years ago and it came with only one keyless remote. Last week we began having problems with the keyless remote sometimes not locking the driver's door. It usually locks the other 3 doors on the first press of the button, but it usually takes 2 or more presses to get it to lock the driver's door. It always unlocks the driver's door on the first press. I replaced the battery in the keyless remote fob, and opened and closed the hood and trunk with no effect. We still have the original battery in the car.
View 2 RepliesSo a friends 09 Accent suddenly shut off while on the highway, she started it back up and drove about 1 more minute and it died again, and has not fired up since.
The only code was a P0342P (pending), cam sensor fault, went to the dealer and the master tech said it will run with a bad cam sensor and that it is likely the crankshaft position sensor. So we bought that ($116 with my military discount), no dice.
It cranks over smoothly (however I did not think to look at the cam through the cam sensor hole until after I had left)
I pulled a cop and checked for spark, it lit the fuel/air out of the tube, so yes on spark and fuel.
All relays were swapped, fuses are good.
I suspect the timing belt let go, as these are interference motors it is likely the motor is toast. Or any chance it is not?
She bought this car brand new, just put front tires on a few days ago and an oil change, 98xxx miles, white 2 door, 5 speed, looks good otherwise, and has been taken good care of!!
I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
View 7 RepliesI have a pretty bad flex pipe leak on my 20th. Would this leak cause a very rough idle almost stalling when I come to a complete stop. The Idle fluctuates from almost stalling to 1000rpms.
View 1 Replies2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
View 2 RepliesMy car just started doing this. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm at around town driving speeds or if I'm on the highway. The car does it in both recirc (max A/C) or in normal. I want to try changing my fliter first but I don't knwo where it's located or how to do it.
The car is a 2008 Elantra with 64K miles on it.
2008 accent. My check engine light came on this morning on my way to work. All of a sudden, while turning onto a street, the CEL light flashed and came on in the car. I noticed that when idling my RPM's are sitting just under 1000 and it will drop to about 500 then come back up around 1000 for a couple seconds before dropping again to close to 500. On takeoff the engine rattles and seems very boggy and slow to take off. Once I am at a higher RPM and on my way, the shaking stops and car drives as normal.
Like I said, it's a 2008 sport model, standard transmission and about 78K kms on it.
My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
View 3 RepliesRecently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
I've had my 2010 Accent for about 9 months. It's got about 63K miles on it. Serviced regularly, no issues there. Yesterday while coming home from a road trip....6 hours there, heavy driving while in town, 6 hours back 2 days later, the check engine light came on the dash. I then noticed that the car was idling very rough. When I put it in gear after starting, I can visibly see the car the shake. Having major problems accelerating, I have to mash the gas to the floor to make it go. Shutting off the air conditioner seems to work a bit, but not totally.
I should note that I live in the South East US, it was over 95 degrees when we left town and the destination was over 100 the entire time we were there. I was told this could be vapor lock, but am not sure about what to do to clear that when the temps won't drop around here for some time. I took it to AutoZone this morning to have them read the codes on the check engine light and was told that their code reader was incompatible with my car.
I have a 2009 Accent and after about 20 minutes of driving it started running really rough and my check engine light came on. It's worse at an idle (feels like it's going to stall out) but isn't quite as bad when I rev it. My first thought is water in the gas tank since we've had a lot of rain for the past week or so and I filled it up a day or two ago.
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