Only electrical mod that was done was the fog light mod so I can turn them on when I want... Is it possible that even if the fog lights are off, that they are pulling some juice from the battery ? In the last 6 months my car has died 4 times, ever since the fog light mod.
View 20 Replies2009 Accent GL Sport manual transmission. Battery keeps dying. 2 batteries over the last 9 months. This is on my son's car. Replaced battery and a few months later it's dead again. Had the system checked no drains on the battery, alternator work great. No fathom drains in the system. The car can set for a week before being driven. The only thing we can think of, because it's not driven every day, the little battery drains out by the systems in the car(clock, etc.). we think there's a .8 amp drain or less.
View 18 RepliesI recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
View 1 RepliesI've been having several issues with my 06 Jetta. First, it began by the car dying out of battery, and than i figured out that during the night the break lightswitch would turn on. I would be able to turn them off by getting in and pressing the breaks but they turn on a while after. Now, today I purchased a stoplight switch to replace the old one however, when I recharged my battery before installing the piece the car died a few minutes later, but when the car was off there was a strange clicking sound under the steering wheel it kept clicking for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped. What could be a possible issue or issues that are going on?
View 4 RepliesMy alarm keeps going off randomly. its only happened a few times now but I don't know what's causing it. it went off last night at 9 and a few weeks earlier at 1 in the morning.
View 1 RepliesOver the past few days, my (factory) car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, with no one/nothing near it to cause it to go off. The car battery is less than 9 months old, the doors, windows, hood and trunk are all always closed. Why it is happening?
View 1 RepliesSo I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
View 1 Replies2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
2008 manual gs 38000, with the ac turned on, upon accelerating, at different rpms, I get a quick loud squeak, and engine bogs down for a second. The engine has always hesitated upon acceleration with ac since i got it, meaning it'll get going and after 2 or three rpms, it'll bog for a quick second, ive asked dealer about it every time i take it in, and they always say its normal.
View 6 RepliesI have a kind of weird problem with my '08 Accent Hatch that just started up last week.
Sometimes when I leave the car (Keys out of ignition and open door) all the doors lock automatically. Same thing happens even if I leave the car running and step out for a minute. And once or twice, the doors locked while driving.
I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
A friend of mine has a 2007 Accent with some scary MDPS issues. Basically it randomly freezes the steering wheel without a warning making it extremely hard to drive. He went to the dealership and since the car is without warranty they'll charge him 1200$ for repair. Is there any recall on these models for this MDPS?
View 7 RepliesMy sons 05 F150 is randomly dying during low idle. We removed and cleaned the TB and cleaned the MF sensor. For example, if he is coming up to a stop or slowing down, the truck will die, but starts right back up. So far no CEL and truck seems to idle and run fine, just ever so often will die.
Anything to check on the 5.4s
I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
I have a 2004 6.0 that has been pissing me off to no end lately. I has a random dying/no start problem. If it idles for ten minutes, it'll die sometimes. And if I drive it and shut it off, it won't restart sometimes. I just drove it three hours on Friday, shut it off and it restarted immediately. Drove it around town all weekend and it started fine every time.
Now driving it home and stopped for fuel 45 minutes in, and it won't start. I have all sensor readings in spec except for I have no ficm sync while cranking. I have about 5k miles on new hpop, injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor, oil rail rebuilds, stand pipes, ficm and engine harness and injector harness. No codes either. If it sits for a couple hours it'll start fine. I've wiggled as many wires as I can and it still won't start. I have rpm while cranking on my edge too. Don't know if that would rule out crank sensor or cam sensor.
My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
A month ago my battery light was coming on and disappeared a few hours later and I thought it was the oem battery. I changed the battery as alternator seems working fine based on scangage that i have. After sometime light sometimes comes on again and disappear. I like to fix this as this is annoying to see on the dashboard. Where else do i need to look. Checked connections they are tight and clean. Only aftermarket stuff i have is the fog light. Not sure a loose connection somewhere may cause this?
View 3 Replies2000 Chevrolet 3500, rear wheel drive Fleetwood, 5.7 liter engine. Slightly over 200k miles on it. I bought it used on June 2nd this year. Bought it from a construction company and they take good care of their vehicles. They must have used it a lot on dusty roads. I made sure the air filter and brake fluids are OK.
June 2014, got new rotor and spark plugs, then after the engine quit on the road home, I had a sensor replaced somewhere in the axle, or transmission, an odd place. Now after 2.5 months of smooth operation, the 5 year battery died (it lived almost 6 years). I put in a new 84 month, heavy duty battery yesterday. Got in the truck to start it up and "click." The battery is doing its thing, lights up the dials and lights if necessary. I turn the key and pause a moment, I hear the fuel pump turn on. Then I turn the key and "Click." The engine does not make any effort to turn over. "Click." Nothing. There is a half tank of gas in it.
I suspect maybe a solenoid as part of the starter, maybe the fuel pump, maybe a blown starter fuse, or blown fuel pump fuse. Thing is they are square fuses and I can't see inside of them whether something is worn out.
We live 60 miles from a Chevrolet shop and maybe 50 from a generic shop. Having the truck towed that far will cost a fortune.
So this morning I was going to my car and pushed the unlock button on my key FOB....nothing. Weird, thought maybe my FOB battery was dead. Opened the door with the key and noticed that my interior light did not come on. My battery is only a few months old, so i didnt think it could be that. Went to turn ignition...nothing, no crank no lights dimming..zero power at all. I opened up the hood and as i did so, i saw the lights on the interior come on. I tried to start it and it started right up. I let it sit for a minute and the car just died out. No power again. I looked at the battery terminal connections and all seemed to be ok, nothing loose etc. Then in about a minute, the power came back. Ended up driving the car to work, about 30 miles, and so far it is ok. I'm afraid of getting stuck somewhere, but i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot. Figured it can't be a fuse or it wouldn't cycle power like that. Connections to the battery seemed ok and even when i wiggled them, nothing happened.
I have an 07 with about 115k on it.
The bolt which hold the battery on the tray snapped when I change the battery. It's rusted and cold outside. Now half of the bolt stuck in the hole on the tray. Is there a simple fix?
View 4 RepliesFor the past 3 weeks or so (ever since it really started getting cold, highs in the 50F range or lower ) I've been having an issue where my seatbelt light on the dash will randomly light up and blink for a few seconds. I can find no rhyme or reason, it didn't appear to be linked to a loose buckle, or me going over bumps, or anything at all related to what my searches came up with for 'Seat belt light' on google and here on the forum. I had almost given up hope until a new symptom appeared.
A little less than 2 weeks ago I noticed that my battery light would also blink, very briefly, also seemingly at random. It could happen while sitting at a traffic light, or while cruising down the road at 60mph. Again, no apparent rhyme or reason. HOWEVER, every time the battery light would blink, even for a split second, the seatbelt light would then blink for about 6 seconds.
For clarification, I have seen the seatbelt light blink without the battery light, but I've never seen the battery light blink without the seatbelt light immediately starting to also blink.
So now that the battery light and the seatbelt light appeared to be linked, I figured that either my alternator or battery was giving out so I went by the auto part store to have them test it. Well, according to their fancy doohickey both the battery and the alternator are fine, but the battery was low on charge.
Well, I did some testing on my own with a multimeter attached to the battery and while the battery does still read low (~12.5V), it doesn't sag under load with the engine off and the alternator appears to be putting out the appropriate ~14.2V expected.
So I am now at a loss as to what to try. I've checked all the electrical connections I can get my hands/wrenches on and they all look good and tight with no corrosion. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to buy a new alternator and throw it on.
96k miles