I had to replace my brake sensor on side of pedal, and now my car won't recognize the brake is depressed to release safety on sifter to allow me to shift out of park.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 4 dr Accent got flooded last night in a rainstorm. The water came up over the shifter in the floor, but not past the cigarette lighter. I probably should just write it off, but I'm pretty much way too broke to buy a new car and I need one for my job (substitute teaching).
Anyways - the car starts, but I can't shift out of park. I moved it using that little override switch. My brake lights, signal lights, etc. all work. I don't know what it could be, because the only other post I saw close to this said to check if the brake lights were not working and what to do if they weren't.
My 2010 Corolla has been driving normally until yesterday. Suddenly, when I started the car, the ABS, Steering, Brake and Tire Pressure lights all lit. I couldn't shift my car out of park without having to resort to the override option. When I used the override option, I was able to back up for a little bit before the steering became even tighter.
The rest of the electric seems to be working correctly; the radio was working, all the brake lights were working.
So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
View 7 RepliesEmergency brake light, VSC, ABS, and (!) On, after 02 sensor replacement by local shop. I'm having trouble with my 2004 Prius. I have been having this issue shortly after having an 02 replacement. It has about 232,xxx miles and instantly I started having issues.
View 6 RepliesMy girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
I have a 2007 GX and these lights have been coming on. I have a hard time shifting out of park. I replaced the gas cap.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
A couple times recently, I've been unable to shift my truck out of Park & the brake lights don't work.
After checking the related fuses & finding them to be ok, it all works again.
What might be causing this to happen?
Ok, So my car wont come out of park unless you do the manual override. I recently put a new battery in the car and accidentally put it on backwards. I was lucky enough not to burn the ECU as the car starts and still drives but the ABS and ESC lights are on along with the BRAKE light.
View 16 RepliesRecently my PT Cruiser was having trouble shifting into park so the car could not be started or the key could not be removed. I had to force it into park a few times and then something popped and broke. The car thinks it's in drive so it will no longer crank. I took a look under the hood and the shifter cable looks to be fine and connected properly but what I found under the center console seems to be the problem. The entire cable and plastic mechanism move freely. To me it seems as if the plastic piece holding the cable aligned is quite stuck. The metal rod looks like it's supposed to move inside the casing? Here are some photos of what we're dealing with.
View 5 Replieshaving problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
My 2011 f250 is stuck in park and the brake lights do not work. I have changed the brake switch but still wont shift out of park.
View 4 Replies2006 GS430 110K miles. Did Front brake pad change by myself. Now ABS , brake warning lamps come on.
Bring it to Lexus dealer. They found 3 code on it. C1203, C1336, C1345
After performed the Zero Point Calibration, the DTC C1345 remains.
I felt so bad. They want to charged me another $185 in order to find out the problem after I have paid $130. But i am out of pocket. So drive car back to home. I don't think i did anything wrong while changing brake pad. Just remove the caliper and push the piston back.
Detail of the Code:
C1203 engine control system communication fault
C1336 zero point calibration Yaw rate sensor undone
C1345 Linear valve offset not learned.
I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.
View 2 RepliesMy 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesI have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
View 1 RepliesI need to change the knock sensor of 2011 Accent, don't know where it is.
View 7 Replies2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
So my automatic accent with 82000 KM is doing some funny things. The first, is occasionally when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, it will shift, and then almost shift again with a bit of a jolt (double shift?). The second, is when in 4th gear, when at 2000 rpm, it will jerk, almost like if it shifts yet there is nothing to shift too (4th is the highest gear). What is going on here?
View 3 RepliesThere were some minor coolant leakage from the upper hose radiator so I have it replaced. Took me 2 hours because the thermostat housing hose neck gunk up with white lime.
Everything works fine but the car still suffering from minor coolant lost. Found some water stain over the bypass hose neck so I get it replaced too. Took me another 2 hours to get it fix because of the white gunk buildup. Secured everything including the hose and the clamps. Minor water stain still can be found at the bypass hose neck.
Replacing the radiator hose? Does it takes few days for the new radiator hose to fit 100%?