Accent MC (2006-11) :: CEL Coming On Then Flashing And Car Sounds Like It Is Underwater
Jun 8, 2013
So I've been living in FL and the other day there was a hurricane and the roads flooded. I think I got some water in my engine or somewhere because now my CEL is coming on then flashing and the car sounds like it's underwater! I haven't been able to drive it anywhere to get the code checked, I don't want to drive it because it seems like it's in rough shape. I checked all the plugs and cleaned them, but the 1st one was wet so I think there may have been water in there. After I cleaned the plugs I reset the ECU and the CEL was gone and I drove it 2 miles w/o issue. Then I went to the automotive store to get some oil/filter, etc to change the oil. I get back to my car and as soon as I turn it on again the CEL comes on and then starts flashing after a few mins of me revving it. I noticed that there is water coming out of the exhaust, like a lot more than normal, so what is happening. I did the oil change with no problems but when I started it again the CEL came on and started flashing. 2007 Accent SE
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2006 ~80K miles. Occasional beep sounds, once accompanied by lcd screen displaying word "PROBLEM." I stopped switching off vehicle. Next time when turned on it behaved normally, but I am spooked that something major will happen. Owners' manual doesn't show anything. What is the most likely interpretation?
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Over the past few days, my (factory) car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, with no one/nothing near it to cause it to go off. The car battery is less than 9 months old, the doors, windows, hood and trunk are all always closed. Why it is happening?
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My car is accent 1.4 A/T 2012, and lately I've been hearing this metallic knocking sounds underneath my car. it happens every time after i drove my car for a longer distance and even on a shorter distance with no minimum running speed, you can hear the metallic knocking sounds whether the engine is on or off. Sometimes it is too loud you don't have to go out from the car you just have to roll the window down to hear it.
I've brought this already to my dealer and told me it was normal but I don't want to accept their answer so i refer it to another hyundai dealer. the second dealer made an adjustments on the muffler and catalytic something and even upgraded the CEU but to no avail and even adjusted my steering preload. BUT I'm still hearing it!! What to do.
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Got a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
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My manual transmission has been making some funky ringing type sounds when cold. Pretty sure it's the trans since pressing the clutch in stops it. It always happens around 2k and is worst when engine breaking. When I just start the car there is a very very faint ringing that goes away as soon as I press the clutch even a tiny bit.
The car has about 45k miles and the clutch itself feels strong and shifting is absolutely fine, I changed the oil to Redline the past summer. Maybe throw out bearing?
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Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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Happened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
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6 months ago After replacing both the battery and the alternator..The seat belt light and battery light both began flashing and then going off ..with no loss of power.. It has been coming on a lot more lately,with no loss of power...I do have a mass air flow code coming up with no issues as far as the car goes..no issues driving. So with a new alternator and battery put in what can be the issue?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent that is giving me one heck of a headache. I keep getting a code for number 1 cylinder misfire. When you start it up it runs fine for a while then the CEL will flash and it will start running rough. As soon as I shut it off and restart it, it runs fine. I even experimented with it this morning on the way to work. It started running rough doing 60, I put it in neutral, turned the car off and then right back on, put it back in gear. It ran fine the rest of the way to work. I have swapped coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, and have even hang tested another ECM. Still number 1 cylinder misfire.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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I currently own a 2006 prius which has done about 100k km. I've been hearing knocking and rattling sounds coming from the left tire whenever I go over a rough patch of road or even a speed bump, between slow to moderate speeds. It's currently bearable, but it gets irritating at times and it seems to be getting louder. What is the cause of these noise and how I can rectify it? I wish to get rid of it.
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It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
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I just bought a Hyundai Accent 08, and the check engine light has been coming on after I put gas in the car, it doesn't run poorly, it only happens after I put gas in the car. and usually after I drive it a while after. Not sure what is going on?
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It's cold and raining quite hard out and I just took my car out to the store and when I pulled into the parking spot a very loud squealing noise began coming from under the hood (sounded like driver side). I turned the car off and restarted and it was still there. I turned it off again and started it and it was gone. I drove the car home without issue and restarted a couple of times with no noise. The car ran great otherwise. What that was? I know very little about cars. It scared the crap out of me--it sounded quite loud--more of a screeching sound.
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Over the past few weeks, I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the right rear brake when they are moderately applied when stopping. Doesnt seem to happen under light braking. I figured something in there must have gotten loose so I got to taking the drum off to inspect and clean the insides, or see if anything was broken. Everything seemed to be in order, inside of the drum looks fine as do the shoes, Nothing is really jumping out at me as a cause to this noise. I hit the brakes with the shop vac to suck out any brake dust I could get.
Then, with the drum off, I had my fiance apply the brakes a few times, and the parking brake, just so I could see if something in there was not operating as it should. Heh. I dont think you are supposed to do that with the drum off. The shoe adjuster fell off the shoes (#2 below) So I had to get that back in place and I am pretty sure I have it in right. I go to put the drum back on, and the pads are now too far apart and it wont go back on.
So, I decide to try opening the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder to see if I can get the pads to move in at all. it drips but I cant get the pads to budge. Then I shortened up the shoe adjuster all the way so I could get the drum back on.
Now my parking brake lever, I have to pull it waaay up to even get the parking brake to engage. I figure I have to go back and crank that adjuster out some so the shoes engage sooner. Also, I probably got air in the brake line when I opened the bleeder, so I have to bleed the brakes for real.
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as the title says, my 2010 accent is at 81,000KM and i hear a ticking sound? is it the timing belt? when driving i dont hear any ticking but once stopped or idling i hear ticking and it never stops til i accelerate.
If it is timing belt, does this mean time for replacement? or what could it be?
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