Accent MC (2006-11) :: CEL After Misfire - Cannot Get Over 60 And Sometimes Drops Down To Maxing At 50 MPH
Aug 30, 2015
i have a 2010 hyundai accent base model with 84,000 miles, recently i fixed my misfire/P030X codes. worked fine for about a couple days then CEL P0420 code came on and performance dropped dramatically. Replaced both o2 sensors and erased codes, drove for about 50-60 miles no CEL but still bad performance. cant get over 60 MPH and sometimes drops down to maxing at 50 MPH. Looked down exhaust manifold with O2 sensor out and saw an intact honeycomb for the cat. What to try next.
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Just want to share my issue in my Accent 2009 model. I changed my AC compressor 2 days ago. When I had the new compressor installed, at first it was running normally. But after maybe 2 or 3 hours, when I am starting the engine then turn on the AC, RPM becomes lower. Sometimes it turns off the engine. That's why I need to press on the gas several times so the engine wouldn't turn off. Even when I am running, when I go on slow speed then shift to gear number 2, the rpm drops to less than 1000, needs to press the gas several times to increase rpm to make the car run faster.
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I have an 06 F350 6.0 and I am having long cold starts. On the gauge the ipr is maxing out at 85%. This only happens when cold and have never had a no start issue. When hot the engine cranks right up and the ipr stays in normal range. FICM has been replaced. Does this sound like needing a new ipr only?
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when i use the squirter for the water on the windscreen i get full pressure for a second then it drops to barely any pressure at all. I thought it was the jets so i checked them with a drawing pin and they flow fine. Are there 2 motors that operate the squirter , is it likely one has gone?
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What is the easiest fix on this and what is the worse case scenario?
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I am currently having an issue with my 07 Accent misfiring on cylinder 1. So far, I have changed the spark plugs, which were due anyway, and checked the coil pack. Every coil on each cylinder reads 0.8 ohms, so I am going on the assumption that they are ok. Didn't see any issue with the connector end inside the boot. However, when I changed the plugs, I discovered that I had oil in the plug tubes on 1 and 4. So I changed the valve cover gasket and tube rings and cleaned all oil residue from the packs. I have also checked the short coil wire harness right on the packs themselves. Have not tried to check further because I don't know which pins that harness goes to on which ECM connector. I still have the misfire, and I'm not sure where to go next. I was thinking compression or fuel injector. I don't have a compression tester, and I assume the only way I can check the injector is to swap it with another cylinder?
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My car has been really acting up lately (AGAIN) so I took it in to have it looked at and they came back and told me it had multiple cylinder misfire, and they wanted like $1200 to fix it. What in the world does that mean and what is entailed in fixing it? They mentioned doing a full maintenance on it.
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2007 accent randomly starts missing. throws cyl.3 missfire. replaced all plugs and cyl.3 coilpak.
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I have a 2009 Accent. It has a misfire on cyl 3. I've changed the spark plugs... no change. I swapped around the coils... no change. The misfire stays on cyl 3. What are my next steps to isolate and resolve this misfire?
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My 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
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I have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai accent. 2 cylinders misfire. I changed out the spark plugs after the misfiring began and the 2 cylinders that misfire don't follow any specific ignition coil, it's just 2 random ones.
Looking at the data with a reader points to fuel injector number 1 not working properly. The first few seconds the car is on the check engine light blinks and fuel injector 1 spray duration (fluctuates based on gas applied) changes just like all the others. However, when the check engine light goes solid (then the misfire code is thrown) fuel injector 1's spray duration is stuck (usually around 3.5 ms)
The cable going into the fuel injector powers those little troubleshooting lights like it should until you plug the cable into the fuel injector OR remove and replace the light a few times.
I don't know much about cars but someone told me to try cleaning out the Mass AirFlow sensor as they had the problem above and the MAF sensor was the cause. I can't find anything on where the MAF sensor is located though.
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I have Hyndai accent Sep-2009 executive model. I have fitted normal CNG kit in my car. I ran it very smoothly for 6 months. Now my car is missing when I am running on petrol but running fine with CNG. If I am removing the battery cable and leave it 4-5 minutes its running fine for 2-10 days, after 7-10 days I am getting the same issue and doing the same procedure for solution.
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2009 Accent, 1.6L 154,xxx Cylinder two misfire. Engine was rebuilt due to timing belt. Twice. Second time I did it. Replaced plugs, coil packs, all gaskets, (everything new in the head) did a smoke test, compression test 180 psi across all four, used a noid light for coil packs (good) did it at the injectors 1,3,4 did good, but 2 came on then went off. Check resistance and it shows good, replaced injector anyway and the connecter. Still doesn't work. Checked powers and grounds at the rail, good. Good solid voltage. I hooked up a scan tool and tried to shut injector 2 off, no change in RPM or vibration. Scan tool worked for 1,3,4. Used another PCM, still misfire in two. Even jumped a wire from PCM control and 15A inj fuse for the 12V constant (bypassed the harness) and still doesn't work. Also have knock sensor code, just two codes.
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This morning my son started the 2008 Accent and it ran really bad, he shut if off started it again and still ran really bad and check engine light started to flash. Shut it off and ran for the bus to school.
Went and picked up a OBD scanner and found a cylinder 1 misfire. Tried to start it and had a really hard time and when it did start ran like crap and smelled gas. Checked the codes again and now got Multiple cylinder misfires, cylinder 4 misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
Pulled the engine cover to pull the coils and plugs and I find a ton of mouse crap. No signs of any chewed wires or anything that I could see. Drove it to the local Hyundai dealer tonight because I am worried that it may not be the coil packs. Drove OK to the dealer. My brother is the service manager at the local Mazda dealer and he sees a lot of mouse damage. Said I should put a couple of old socks with moth balls in the engine compartment to deter the mice.
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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I have a 2010 accent GL manual sedan. It has 104,962 KM on it, the warranty expired December 18, 2015. Since February this car has become a frustrating money pit. Being in the dealership constantly for repairs, then within a week something else 'happens' and back it goes. Spent almost $5000 in 4 months on repairs. Decided that's enough and will do majority of repairs myself.
Yesterday while drive on the highway I had a sudden loss of power and a check engine light came on. My scanner which has become a standard item in my glove box indicated a misfire on cylinder 2 - P0302. I limped the car home, in 3rd gear I was having a hard time staying above 2000rpm at 60km/h. at lights I had to use hand brake so I could keep my foot on accelerator, revs were dropping below 300.
Today I replaced all the plugs (all 4 were still in good or better condition, #2 showed signs of a slightly rich burn and #3 a slightly lean burn), replaced all coil boots (no cracks, no burns, and still pliable), removed and cleaned all the injectors. Error code P0302 persists.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent that is giving me one heck of a headache. I keep getting a code for number 1 cylinder misfire. When you start it up it runs fine for a while then the CEL will flash and it will start running rough. As soon as I shut it off and restart it, it runs fine. I even experimented with it this morning on the way to work. It started running rough doing 60, I put it in neutral, turned the car off and then right back on, put it back in gear. It ran fine the rest of the way to work. I have swapped coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, and have even hang tested another ECM. Still number 1 cylinder misfire.
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Make: Hyundai
Model: Accent
Year: 2007
Mileage: 70K
I've added Mystery Oil into my gas tank to clean fuel injectors as a maintenance precaution. I added it to a full tank of gas, when the gas tank was on low and I needed to get more gas, the check engine light came on.
The car was diagnosed with CEL reader from Autozone, misfire in cyl 3 is what the guy said. 3 full gas tanks later, it still has the same code and the car idles rough, hesitates and only seems to behave normal under medium to full throttle at higher RPMs.
I've been reading online for similar issues, as well as asking my friend who works as a mechanic at a dealership. Everyone seems to be accepting this behavior as normal and suggesting to wait out a couple of more gas tanks for the fuel injector cleaner to burn through.
I've looked at the spark plugs. 1,2, and 4 cylinder spark plugs have normal wear and tear. #3 has black build up, which corresponds with online pictures of rich mixture misfire.
I'm looking for a repair manual on another thread on this forum so I can take the injector from cylinder #3 out and look at it.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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