My accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
View 5 RepliesI've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
I just purchased my 2006 Passat 2.0T FSI and she just broke 100,000 miles.
So yesterday my car popped the P0171 code, STOP Low Coolant light flashing, and Tire pressure very low, so today i will be removing my cold air intake and forge diverter valve adapter and bring her to the dealer for warrenty work. I will keep this thread updated with whats wrong with her.
Tire Pressure Low: all tires looked fine.
I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
View 13 RepliesHave got a 2006 Azera 3.3 (same engine as Sonata and have had no luck in the Azera section) which is showing Check Engine Light and P0171 code. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are very high. I have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
Have got a Azera 3.3 which is showing P0171 CEL. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are well out. Have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
I am trying to get a 2009 Sonata NF with a 3.3L V6 to run correctly and i have tried everything that i can find and still get the problem. The car runs very rich with a strong gas smell. The engine runs rough but doesn't stall. The car has has period where it runs fine and then the issue returns but is in more frequent and steady now. The car will run for the first 5 minutes great if it is cold and it also runs good at full throttle and the check engine light went off during hard acceleration which seems consistent with getting too much fuel. I bought a BlueDriver to read the codes and I love the data it provides but I am learning all the features.
For a little history the car has 95,250 miles. At 81157 miles the check engine light came on and an independent shop replaced the downstream O2 sensor and the light has been off for 2 years until coming back on recently. The code showing was a P0300. The shop replaced spark plugs and the manifold gasket with and oil change for $775. The check engine light stayed off for about a month and 550 miles. The car was taken back to the shop and they replaced the rear O2 sensor for $429 . The check engine light was off for a couple of days and then returned with the P0300. It might go a couple of days without a problem and then it would return.
This is when I got the car and started reading all the forums i could for possible causes. I saw the Tech Bulletin on the Variable Valve Timing Oil Control Solenoids so i replaced both valves. The check engine light returned with a P0303 for cylinder 3 misfire so i figured it was a coil so i replaced all the coils. The P0300 code returned. I check fuel pressure after seeing a post about fuel pressure regulators causing the problem but the pressure was correct. I changed the Mass Flow Sensor figuring it was getting too much gas but no improvement. I bought the BlueDriver so I could see more than just the codes. The O2 sensor looked erratic so i changed the front upper O2 sensor.
I found the Tech Bulletin about the O2 sensors fuel trim readings and realized there was an upper sensor on the back manifold and it was reading -18% so i changed it and now I don't know which way to go. I currently have the P0303 code confirmed and P0300 pending. With the live data the items that looked strange at idle were O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 steady at 99.2% and Calculated Engine Load a 21.6%. The freeze frame data from when the light came on has all the short fuel trim at 0.0% and long term at -0.8% for both banks. Calculated Engine Load was 45.9% even though I was trying to drive slowly at 29 mph. Mass Air was 21.71 g/s, I had been running 3 minutes from a slightly warm start, Absolute engine load was 44.3%. Anything else to check or data I should look at?
I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
I have a 2007 accent. I just changed the oil and filter. I typically don't look at the dipstick after I change the oil but this time I did. The dipstick is ready a good 1/4 inch over full after the change. I started the car and let it run for a while and it still reads the same.
I don't see how I put too much oil in, but I am paranoid that I did. Is it typical for this model to read a little over full on the dipstick?
The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
View 4 RepliesWhen I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
View 12 RepliesFinally had a chance to pull the coils for inspection, and give the truck some very needed plugs. anyways, since i got it, the truck on initial start will rev itself up to about 3k rpms. it will almost always die after that rev. with the MAF sensor disconnected, it will rev to about 2k rpms, and the idle, if you can call it that, around 1k rpms. it will buck, jump, spit, burp, chug, pop, blow, and phew noises the whole time. I can rev the truck at this point but the throttle repsonse is poor. it does rev with a slight misfire, but no popping like what it does at idle. the exhaust has been dropped before the cat, so i know its not a plugged cat. i feel it could possibly be a sticking idle control valve allowing air past behind the MAF sensor causing this crazy scenerio
View 7 RepliesI have already concluded I need to replace my OCV on my 2007 2.4L GLS Sonata.
I have also been starting to hear a clicking noise associated with reducing throttle when in the 2500-3100 rpm range. It seems to only make this quiet clicking noise when the throttle is reducing and within the RPM range from above.
I am just wondering if this may be associated with the OCV needing to be replaced. I suppose I will find out for sure when I do finally get around to replacing the OCV sometime this month.
Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
View 2 RepliesSo I finally reached what I considered my break in period at 800 miles and now when I give the car full throttle, it shudders like it's going to stall. I can go as fast as I want at any RPMs but when I give it full throttle it nearly goes into a stall til I let off.
I do have APR STG1 and it is in the correct setting (93 OCT) I tried putting it to stock & running it like that on my drive home & still no go, check engine light is still on.
A buddy of mine has a stock 1.8t auto with some miles on it. THe car sputters after you come off full throttle and then the check engine light comes on. we have replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and the 4 coils and plugs. car is still doing this.
View 3 RepliesJust talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2007 hyundai accent 1.6 l gls, recently got a code p0496 and installed a purge valve and 4 days later got a code p0497 (evap emission sys. Low purge flow). Would it be better for me to take my car to an emission shop where it can be diagnosed since i do not want to take to dealership cause the cost would be very high. I want to diagnose it with some machine that will pinpoint the main problem without me replacing parts just to find out that maybe the part i thought was bad did not need to be replaced.
View 2 RepliesI am getting a poo12 code on my 2007 hyundai accent. All the sensors seem to be fine. How to get it fixed?
View 9 Replies