Accent MC (2006-11) :: Burning Smell When Stopped At A Light On Slight Incline
May 18, 2011
A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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I just drove my Prius through 8-10 inches of heavy wet snow. The car did amazingly well. At times my traction control light was on when trying to get up an incline until the car got going. Then when I got home I stopped in my driveway for the garage door to open and started into the garage. The car was stuck, but then the light came on and the car climbed the driveway in about 10-15 seconds and made it in the garage. I then noticed a smell like burning tires. Maybe it was the tires from spinning. I hope that I didn't hurt my transmission or another component. Does the Prius protect itself if it is stuck and the traction control light is on from overheating something? I think I recall that the 2nd generation Prius would not allow for wheel spin to protect the traction battery.
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Can a piece inside the HID be replaced. I noticed that my bulb was coming loose because every now and then the light would stop working.
I'd open the hood tighten it and all would be good for weeks sometimes months. Today it stopped and I opened it and this time it had a burning plastic smell.
Can this piece be replaced?
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I have a 2003 Mercury Sable. There is a burning smell/fumes whenever I am stopped at a light or put the car in park. The smell comes from the drivers side but I don't smell anything when I am moving. What could be causing this?
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Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
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I've put almost 3K miles on my Prius C and there have been times when I've gone up a long hill that required spending a lot of time in the red POWER zone. For example climbing up into the Berkeley hills, but always on a less steep switchback route. Quite often by the time I get to the top I can smell something like a mild burning coming from the engine. I imagine this is a normal reaction from the motor to being used to get up a long hill, but it is unnerving anyway. It is noticeable inside the cabin also, but more pronounced over the hood.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey. The other day while driving, and today after just starting up, the car makes a whining noise, multiple lights on the dash illuminate (charge, all door open indicators, brake, and brake light bulb indicator) and when I open the hood I can smell a slight burning smell. I thought maybe something was frozen, but the belt is not unusually warm, and all the pulleys I can see are turning.
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When stopped at lights I start to smell burning oil coming from the vents when I have the heat on. It only happens every now and then and only when you are stopped at a light. I tried letting the engine idle after driving once and I can't smell it when i open the hood. I do synthetic oil changes every 5,000 since the car was new. I don't know what it could be? My last oil change was about 2,000 miles ago so I can't see it being burn off from the last change still.
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When my car is stopped/idle I smell burning. However when it is in motion the smell goes away. Other than that my car runs fine. What could this be? My oil change guy told me to just add Lucas Oil Stabilizer and that would eliminate the smell but it has not worked.
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After leaving my car parked for 4 days at the airport, my car has a burning smell when driving. Nothing is on except the engine. It's still smelling after 4 days. I've left my car at the airport for longer and have never smelled this before.
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2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
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While waiting at a stop light my car totally died, there were no warning lights, the car is a 2011 Subaru forester with 52,000 km. I had it pushed off the road, tried to restart it with jump cables but it would not turn over. I noticed an odd burning smell when I opened the hood. There were rat tracks on top of the engine area. I had the battery pulled out and replaced with another fully charged but it did not make a difference.
After sitting for two days, I restarted the car and the engine managed to turn over but very very rough, a mechanic thought there was something loose in the engine. I currently live in Mexico and closest subaru dealership is 5 hours away. I will need to get it towed there but I would like to have some idea of what it may be, my thought is somehow a wire got chewed off but I had driven it about 20 miles that morning and then it just stopped dead.
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I was driving my 2002 CRV with 86K miles on it, when suddenly the A/C stopped working and there was a burning smell. Immediately stopped A/C and took it to my local dealer, Honda. They say the compressor blew metal debris throughout the A/C system, destroying it completely. I am, of course, furious that a low mileage Honda in excellent condition would require this kind of repair. Should I have it done? Should I find another mechanic and get aftermarket parts?
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After reading some posts I think my passat could have the cam seal and valve cover gasket leaking. I smell burning oil when stopped. How much should this repair cost if I go to an indy repair shop?
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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I have a 2014 V6 Mustang. Recently I've begun to smell that special scent of burning metal intermittently, more often at slower speeds or when stopped completely. In addition I've noticed that my mileage has been dropping a bit and that the car doesn't pick up quite as fast as it used to. Today on a hunch I put the car on a non-incline surface and let the clutch out relatively quickly. I was shocked to discover that it didn't stall - it absolutely would have when it was newer. The brakes also don't appear to be shedding dust so I don't think one of them is locking up.
Normally these would be signs of a clutch going bad. I'm suspicious because my car only has 25,000 miles on it. It has been driven through two Michigan winters and thus subjected to some abuse, but even if I were riding the clutch daily (I would never) I would be surprised to see it go out so young. Should I be looking at something else, or should I just break down, go to the dealer, and fight with them until they replace it?
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I have a new 2013 Hyundai Accent (automatic, 4 cylinder) with less than 1500 miles on it. The day I drove it off the lot and up until today, it randomly smells like burning rubber. It happens whether it is hot or cold, driven two miles or thirty miles. The smell is coming from under the hood but I know very little about engines, so I'm not sure what it is. I have told the dealership and they don't seem to care. I may not know much about cars but I know that that smell is not normal, especially in a new car. What could be causing this...
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My father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
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So, yesterday, when I stopped at red light, my car just turned off. I tried to turn it on, but I couldn't. I kept trying, and after 30th try it turned on. I had this same problem month ago, but it disappeared until now. I can turn it on by pushing when it happens. Is it fuel pump? Or some sensor?
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2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
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