Accent MC (2006-11) :: Bucking And Shuddering When Warmed Up
Dec 20, 2016
After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
(My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...).
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I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
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At low speeds before coming to a stop the clutch shudders somewhat when I push it in. When quickly depressing the clutch when coming to a sudden stop....
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When looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. what numbers are the cylinders from left to right? To curtail off of that question where do I locate the corresponding ignition coils to these c I have been dealing with intermittent misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 codes P0300, P0301, P0303. I replaced the spark plugs to no avail. Whenever the vehicle shudders the headlights dim and the shuddering is worse when the vehicle is placed in gear, the A/C fan is on, or the vehicle is accelerating. Once I reach a certain speed, usually 35-40 mph, I don't notice until I again slow down. I replaced the spark plugs the day after I had the first issue appear which read code P0301. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I experienced a severe loss of acceleration power, but now only experience the shuddering.
2011 Hyundai Accent 63500 miles ....
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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Truck is running bad when first cranked in the morning, is bucking and running rough until warmed up, think the oil needs to be changed and which additive is better the archoil or Rev x?
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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The car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
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My 2006 Sonata has the 3.3L V6. It's been remarkably trouble free for over 201000 miles now, but has recently started having a "bucking" issue. It first it was pretty subtle. My wife noticed it too, and we thought maybe we were causing it. It progressively got stronger, and I started noticing some noise when idling with the window down. Also the check engine light started coming on. I took it to the dealer. They said the cam position sensor was bad. The noise was caused by something else, which they fixed.
To make a long story short, the car is now back at the dealership for the third time in the last few weeks. It will run great for a while, then suddenly start "bucking". The other day it died on me in heavy traffic. Fortunately I was close to the dealership so I took it back over there (second time). I got it back Monday of this week. It ran great on the drive home. Tuesday morning the bucking started before I could even get out of the driveway, so I drove my truck to work. Today (Wednesday) I drove it back to the shop. It ran fine the entire way. Check engine light is back on.
I have really enjoyed this car. Had it for about 8 years now. Full Synthetic oil every 5000 miles and a filter. I had really hoped to turn over 300,000 with it.
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I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
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I need to change my plugs in my 06 5.4 122,000 miles truck is bucking and not right under acceleration but its my only transportation to work and I am afraid of breaking a plug and then having no clue what to do after that. Need input on making the plugs come out easier ...
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I have a 2006 Outback XT, which recently started shuddering (like it wants to stall) at idle... At least that's how it started. I noticed it for a few weeks but with no check-engine light, and no error codes cropping up, I kind of ignored it. It then started to stall at idle. Took it to my local guy, who checked all the simple stuff: vacuum hoses, mass air flow sensor, he even removed and cleaned up the throttle body. But the problem persists.
I guess the part that really has me puzzled is the lack of a check-engine light or an error code. With how computer-regulated cars are nowadays, I'm baffled as to how this isn't causing some alarm to go off.
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My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
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just overhauled my 6.0. run great for about 3 days now runs really rough when cold. new heads injectors rings pistons ficm fuel pump icp sensor ipr valve fuel pressure is good. Engine rolls smoothly when cold also.
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2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
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