Accent MC (2006-11) :: Brake Lights Does Not Work When Pedal Pressed
Jan 13, 2014
Noticed when I press brake pedal brake lights does not work even the center one. Checked all fused in the car and the small ones under the hood. All fine. I have a long trip tomorrow. Where else i can look. Everything seems working. Reverse light is fine. Is that related to latest brake light switch recall? Cant think of anything else.
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I'm having issue with my brake lights. Checked for voltage and nothing. Checked the fuses under the dash. Checked the brake pedal switch and have power going out when the pedal is pressed. Is there a relay or something somewhere else? 1999 f250 7.3 superduty....
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I am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
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My Sonata 2008 2.4 produces a single click as I press brake pedal, somewhere half way through. You can hear it and feel it with your foot. I think it clicks somewhere inside the hydraulic system of the brake.
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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I own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
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I have a 2010 Accent GS. I was trying to change the bulb in the trunk light. I changed the bulb and now none of the lights inside the car work-- map lights, dome light, trunk light. I figured it was a blown fuse. I looked at the fuse box inside the car and I think I found the fuse I think it's the one in that yellow box that is in the right side center of the fuse box. How do you pull that thing out? Are you supposed to pull out the individual fuses. I pulled the yellow box. It only comes half-way out. How do I check that little 10 amp fuse inside that yellow box?
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Just noticed this the other day, when depressing my GF's 2011 Accent's brake pedal it made a low hissing sound, it would go away when you took your foot off the pedal, you would never hear this with the radio on, but it was enough to make me think it could be a concern.
Drove the car and it didn't affect the brake permormance, but the longer this goes, I can't imagine this being a good thing.
Car is 3 years old, and has 80-20 city/hwy driving under it.
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Started a few months ago didn't really bother me until now. Started when I would forget the parking brake is on and would just put the car in reverse & wouldn't move until I released the parking brake. Did it about 5-7 times and now every time I brake without the parking brake on, it squeaks & is really annoying. Is there any way to fix this or is it just gonna be complicated & expensive?
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I'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
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80km on my accent, the brake pedal was getting softer and brake fluid was a bit low as normal due to brake pads were worn up over time. Brake pads were never changed. I thought changing the pads would change the softness of the brake pedal. I changed the brake pads, left and right, the brake fluid in the reservoir went up as normal but I drove around but the softness of the brake pedal did not change. I still had a little less than half size on the old pads. I need to press the pedal a bit much to feel the brakes. I am wondering maybe the brake pedal was always like that when I bought the car.
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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My brake pedal is making a creaking noise when depressed and can also be heard when letting off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the brakes themselves (front/back are like new) but the pedal area or somewhere behind it. This noise doesn't start until I've driven the car for a little while. The brakes work fine for the most part but sometimes feel a bit spongy if making a sudden or hard stop. The fluid levels are fine.
I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?
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I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
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Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
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When I press the pedal down the pedal vibrates and make an odd sound like errrrrrrrrrrrr best way I can explain it...
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Requiring that the brake pedal be depressed in order to start the engine can be a nuisance, say if the driver is out of the vehicle and the passenger wants to start the engine to run the A/C, etc.
There is a workaround though. Press the engine start switch once to go into ACC mode, then press and hold it for 15 seconds and the engine will start without the brake pedal having to be pressed.
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When brake pedal is fully pressed and my car is in drive the pedal vibrates. The only thing I thought of is that my intake is touching something, but I don't see anything.
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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I have 2013 Elantra ( 20,000 miles) and when I put the brake lights on without the headlights on everything works ok but when the headlights are on the driver's side brake light does not come on when the brake pedal is pressed. I thought it was a bulb problem so I replaced it but I am still having the same issue. What is going on? I know it is still under warranty but I figured I could handle a burnt bulb issue but that was not it. I noticed that the drivers side bulb is not as bright either when brake is pressed without headlights
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To all 2014 and 2015 GX 460 owners, does brake pedal have a slight modulation or vibration while press it. Feels like ABS but not as strong pumping action.
When I step on the brakes the first time feels normal and then I let go of the brakes, then I press it the second time that is when I feel a slight modulation or vibration of the brake pedal.
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