When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
View 4 RepliesI am having trouble fueling my car with gas. Anytime, I try to put gas in the tank, the nozzle stops after seconds of dispensing fuel. Regardless of how fast or slow the fuel is dispensed. Does the evaporative vent system come into play during this process? Or could the problem be an obstruction in the filler hose? Or possibly an anti-spill valve in the tank? we have done a little research online, and these are the questions remaining.
View 2 RepliesI started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
View 5 RepliesI can here this squawking under my hood for 30 sec or so after every engine stop, when parking. I purchased the car used with 19,500 Kilometers. This noise has always been there. Is this normal? I believe the noise is from the inverter coolant pump? I don't hear this when the car is running, but then my hearing is not the greatest?
View 7 RepliesMy 2006 Mountaineer 4.6 is ticking at start up, and it gets quieter after about 30 seconds. Does this sounds like the cam phaser?
View 3 RepliesI have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
View 2 RepliesMy 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
View 3 RepliesI have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
Had the car for less than a week and I'm getting a constant chirping/cricket sound, the moment I touch the clutch even slightly it stops. Sound is gone when clutch is touched in any way or engaged. My first thought is Throw Out Bearing, or perhaps pilot bearing?
2010 GL Sport model.
The issue that I'm having is that when going up hills, the car like automatically starts slowing down basically losing power seems like. I have to put it in low gear and even so it sounds like its straining to get up the hill. No more than 20mph and then begins to drop lower. When going up drive way I have to make a complete stop and then proceed else it will stall. Also, when at stand still in traffic car shuts off. Sometimes I can feel it vibrate before it shuts off other times it just shuts off. took to western auto and they don't know whats wrong with any of the issues. They just said there is nothing wrong with my idle and to put a gas cleaner in when i full the tank up, that didn't work.
View 9 RepliesI have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
My 2007 Hyundai will randomly after being parked for 3+ hours will stall (engine shakes for two seconds then cuts off) when attempting to reverse. This only happens when the car is turned on then trying to reverse. It will NOT do this when driving and later putting the vehicle into reverse. Additionally when the weather is extremely cold or hot this becomes more frequent. If the car can be shifted into reverse without stalling within 5 seconds it will NOT stall. To solve the problem I have to either keep trying to turn on the car and shifting to reverse until it doesn't stall out (sometimes 3 tries or more) or putting the car into neutral and pushing. I have to stress this only happens after having the vehicle sit for more than several hours even a day and is random. One day no matter how many times I tried turning the car on and trying to reverse and repeating it would not stop stalling out. I had to wait till the parallel parked car in front of me moved so I could get out of my spot. What is wrong with my car? I have taken it to Porter Hyundai TWICE and they cannot determine the problem even after scanning for codes.
View 1 RepliesOn my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
When cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
View 2 RepliesWhen using the AC on my 2004 Prius, in any mode, any temperature, on fresh or recirculate, the cooling starts and stops every 5-10 mins. When the cooling is on, it is nice an cold, but then no matter how hot outside, the cooling stops and I am just getting vent air. After a while, the temp in the car gets way above the set point, and it kicks back on and cools again. This occurs over and over again.
Being as the cooling works well some of the time, I was wondering if it is a controller, not the cooling system itself.
My 2010 Santa Fe has had a AC problem since one week of ownership - when it is raining and I drive the car more than 10-15 mins - the AC stops blowing cool air. My dealer has seen the problem first hand - but has no solution for it. Last fall they replaced a faulty accuator - wasn't able to test it our since was fall... but doing it again since the warm weather has started.
View 12 RepliesAt startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
View 2 RepliesI run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
View 2 RepliesI read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?