Accent MC (2006-11) :: AC Pump Audible And Seems To Wind Down When Come To A Stop From Any Speed
Jun 20, 2011
I have a two door hatchback (2010) and I love it! Simple as it is, I just can't complain. I think it is fun to drive, and easy on the fuel budget. But I digress. Because I am new to these cars, I am learning about the noises it makes and if they are normal or not. My question is this:
When driving around with the A/C on, I notice - as I come from any speed to a stop - that the A/C pump becomes audible and seems to "Wind Down." I can hear a little "whirring" or "groaning" sound which goes away (dies down) after a moment. It isn't terrible, and maybe it is normal. I just don't know! If it is not a ordinary operating noise, then to the shop we go! Also, I am going to install an aftermarket Cruise Control.
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My 2009 Accent has been getting really noisy above 30 mph. The driver's side window no longer seals & at 70 mph you can't even hear the radio. Just a loud roar. The dealer said it's out of warranty (61,000+ miles) so there won't fix it. I tried putting a piece of thin plastic tube under the rubber seal to close the gap but it just raised the pitch of the noise. The problem goes away if I hold the wind lever down but once I let go, the window drops 1/4" or so & in comes the wind & noise. If I can fix this without disassembling the whole door I'd prefer that.
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Recently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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If the fuel pump in the right rear of the car is making an audible noise, does that mean it is the incorrect fuel pump, or is that normal?
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My 2006 package 6 just developed a ticking sound. Audible at stop without the gas engine operating. All gear positions the same. Sounds almost like a slow, little plastic fan that one blade is hitting something. Sound system off, climate system off.
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I have got a plug in supply phev kit, and I live in the uk. As the software on the kit is written for the American market, I'm assuming our speeds are a little different, ie, the phev kit always wants to enter ev mode automatically below or at 30mph, and the kit does do this, but our 30 mph speed must be different to the usa, as the kit tries to enter ev mode when I'm doing speeds of over 30mph even up to 35 mph, the the cars software stops this from happening and the audible alarm sounds, 4 beeps, and words on the led state ev mode not allowed because we are of course going too fast.
This is of course quite annoying sometimes when the kit is constantly trying to get into ev mode and alarms are frequent at speeds between 30 and 35 mph, over this speed the kit stops trying to go into ev mode.
The kit is working really well to be honest, and I am very pleased with the way it works. One thing I would like to do is to try to stop the audible alarm when the ev mode is not allowed, is there a way of disabling the cannot enter ev mode chime / beep alarm with software, I do own a techstream light.
I wish the PIS program and software was open source, I could alter the parameter myself then.
One more slight thing that could be addressed is sometimes, but not very often, when I am driving in mixed or blended mode, the oem hybrid battery gets too full of charge and the engine starts to burn off the Excess charge in the battery, again if the PIS program was open source, I could adjust the point at which the kit battery adds into the oem battery, I would drop that parameter a volt or 2 to stop the oem battery going into excess and burn off process.
I must say though, apart from these 2 slight annoyances, the kit is awesome.
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I have a 2009 Accent GLS. The PS pump has become increasingly noisy, especially when the car is first started and when the steering wheel is turned. The noise is coming from the belt and when it does this it looks like the PS pump slows down and the belt is being forced through by the water pump. I bought a new/remanuf pump; however, the PS pressure switch thread diameter is smaller than the hole in the new pump and does not fit.
I took it back and tried another pump and same problem. Looking at a pump on RockAuto, A-1 CARDONE 215473 {#571001E000, 571001G000}, this one shows a plug with a slot in the hole where the switch screws in. I am at a loss with replacing the pump when I cannot seem to find what the car came with.
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I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
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Not brake squeal but a squeak that is emanating from the drivers side springs or shocks. There's no noise while driving or stopping, just when you come to a complete stop and inertia sends the car forward slightly you can hear it.
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It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
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I have a 2007 Accent that I love but have a strange issue. I had both front wheel bearings replaced about four months ago. Recently (about the past three weeks) there has been a slight vibration at speed once I hit over 50 kph, which sounds/feels like an alignment/axle issue (almost like there is a flat tire type of sound) but there isn't any sway when I let go of the wheel and I had the front end inspected and they told me there are no loose parts.
I took it to a shop, and they said a wheel bearing needs to be replaced. So of course I took it back to the original shop and had them check it again for free - they said it isn't a wheel bearing but what it could be.
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At low speeds before coming to a stop the clutch shudders somewhat when I push it in. When quickly depressing the clutch when coming to a sudden stop....
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In the last 6 weeks my 2007 Accent has died when I've come to a stop. Once in traffic on the freeway and the rest at stop signs or lights. The car will start back up and won't die again for a week maybe. Nothing consistent. I took it to a mechanic and nothing shows up on the computer. I took it to the dealer, still nothing on the computer. He cleaned the throttle body I think and put an additive in the tank. Two days later it died at a stop sign. Automatic transmission. Ok, what's the problem?
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So yesterday during a work lunch my CEL light came on. my car only has 20,700 miles on it. and I bought it brand new. So obviously I was very nervous. I took the car straight to the dealership and dropped it off, seeing as I was only 3 blocks away from the dealership.
They ran the diagnostic and it said there was issue with a cylinder misfire. And after some more tests it led them to replace the engine coil. They drove it 5 miles and believed it corrected the issue. That evening after work when the shuttle came to pick me up, I drove the car home and no issues what so ever. Car actually seemed to be getting up to speed better than before. (car is automatic).
The issue, this morning when starting the car and getting ready for work, I hear a weird noise when starting the car, revving the engine, and getting up to speed. It is not a ticking noise, I would describe it more as a rattle but that doesn't even describe it real well.
They also did an oil change. I bought the car brand new, and have never had any issues and religiously get oil changed by dealership every 3 months.
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2008 Hyunda Accent, 5 speed, with high mileage. She claims it slips out of 5th gear when she's driving. They're on vacation, the car is in the shop, the shop is saying that it can't find the problem...
Apparently it slips out under load (in constant motion).
It seems that it only occurs when the transmission is hot, meaning the oil has less viscosity. The dealership apparently is saying they can't find anything wrong and she isn't making it up since she said she drove from Michigan last week with her hand on the shifter the entire time to keep it in gear. Dealer is saying they aren't going to just drive it around and around until it happens.
How modern cars are built these days. I know older cars had some synchro things that would wear and allow the shifter to pop out of gear, but I read that some Hyundais have cable driven shifters....at a loss.
It happens in 4th sometimes, too, and will also pop out even when leaning on the shifter.
I did see this thread, but was wondering if there was any additional information: [URL] .....
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Starting at about 30mph there's a humming noise that gets louder as speed increases. It doesn't seem to change if I am steering right or left and i have no steering wheel shake or any sort of noticeable bumping at 60mph. Could this just be my tires making noise, they are quite worn by now.
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I noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS that I purchased just over two years go. I have a couple of issues with it at the moment.
My first problem is I clipped my drivers side side-view mirror and a little plastic piece inside the side-view mirrror housing where the bolts go thru broke off. I checked with Hyundai and it seems like you can't purchase that plastic piece from them(they make you purchase the whole side view mirror). I also checked around at local junkyards but none of them had a 2010. What I can do here?
My second problem is when I'm slowing down to a stop and my speed gets around 10 mph or so the car jumps/jerks. It feels like it's almost skipping a gear or something and it's very noticeable. I was wondering if any of y'all have had that problem before and if so what did you do?
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I have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
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My 2008 seems to be having some intermittent trouble shifting into the proper gear at a couple of speed ranges.
Occasionally I'll start it up and pull out of a parking space (or leave a stoplight) and it feels like it's stuck in 1st well after it should have switched to a higher gear (I sometimes feel the upshift at about 10* mph). If I continue accelerating and hit about 40-50 mph, once again it appears to stay in the current gear instead of shifting.
When this issue is happening, the car feels even more underpowered than usual and takes way more throttle than it should to accelerate. This results in a cruising RPM of 3.3-3.5k at 60 mph. At that speed the engine would normally be doing about 2.2k RPM. Similar power and RPM conditions exist in the lower-speed range, too.
This whole thing is usually preceded by a rough shift into gear (D or R) when I first start the car. It's always had a slight lurch in the appropriate direction as I take it out of park, but this is really noticeable.
If I stop the car and come back in an hour, it (usually) appears to have reset itself. I can drive around and the transmission control is as good as always.
This has been going on for about a month, with an episode maybe every week or two. I took it to a shop and they didn't find any problems (I told them about the weird shifting and lack of power).
Does it sound like this is what's happening (it's not getting into the right gear)? Thoughts on what I should do? I can't really remember the speeds.
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My friend has a 2007 Hyundai Accent. I don't have any picture so I'll try to explain as best as I can. He has a problem with the braking light that is on the spoiler (it's an hatchback). All lights are very dim and flickering while the two bulbs on the right are solid. I believe the light assembly is dying and need to be replaced with new bulbs. The problem I have is I am not able to get to the assembly. I have the manual shop but it doesn't include instructions for the hatchback version.
There's a few black bolts/screws on the trunk lid. I removed those, but the spoiler doesn't want to move at all. I see 3 plastic trim that are beige. I believe there's more screws behind those. I don't know where the plastic holder are for the trim so I didn't try to remove them (I don't want to brake them!!). See the attached picture with the red circle for the black screws I am talking about.
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