Accent MC (2006-11) :: AC Does Not Blow Cold All The Time
Jul 19, 2013
2008 Accent 234,000 miles, Auto. I have an issue with my A/C that I can't seem to get a handle on. The A/C does not blow cold all the time.
Blows cold - When driving all the time. While sitting still IF it is cool out. Cools to around 48 degrees in the morning.
Does not cool - When sitting still and it is hot out. Has blown over 100 with outside temps around the same.
Freon levels are fine. Sounded like an airflow problem so I replaced the condenser fan and it did not work. Both fans are running when the A/C is on.
Something is turning off the compressor when it is hot and I'm not driving. I did notice one day that the high side A/C line was extremely hot to the touch. Does this system have a high pressure switch? Could it be a high pressure issue only when the compressor gets hot?
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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I've got a '06 passat. The a/c was working fine one day, and then the very next day it just stopped. the a/c light comes on when I push the button for it, but it won't blow cold air. I'm not sure if this is a common problem on passats or what's going on.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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I was driving home on the highway, and my 2006 Elantra did the following things in this exact order:
-Heater started to blow out ice cold air
-Temperature gauge rose, dropped down, and then rose right back up to the red area and stayed
-As I was slowing down to pull over, my tachometer dropped to 0rpm
-My "Check Engine" and "Battery" lights came on
-The car completely died and came to a rolling stop on the shoulder
I am trying to find answers as to what has happened to my car.
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So a couple weeks ago I refilled the reservoir for coolant because it was low. But the radiator level was fine. Then today I checked the reservoir and it was below the L and the radiator level was a little under as well. What could be causing this? Possibly a hose? I don't think it would be a bad radiator?
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Have a 2006 trailblazer LS with the regular AC (not the digital or whatever it's called) It's already pushing 90 some days down here....
So the AC will blow cold enough to freeze me out almost as long as the truck is moving even a little bit. Stopped for any length of time though, and it blows kind of warm-ish. Gets cold again as soon as we start going.
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So 2 months after my accident I'm finally able to drive again and my car is 100% fixed and ready. Only 1 problem, every time I make a left turn my car makes this weird noise but I don't know what it is. I replaced my suspension and I thought it would take a couple days for the tightness to wear down and for the noise to go away, but of course with my luck it's still doing it. What can it be??
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After changing the timing belt and water pump I want to change the coolant. Stupid to have no temp gauge so I got a scan tool connected. Been idling 20 minutes and it hasn't gone above 189 degrees. Assume it has a 195 degree thermostat. I put fresh water in the radiator but still don't see it mixing with coolant in the block as if the thermostat has opened.
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I started to drive with my windows open and just noticed a noise every time I switch gears, and specially when I'm going up on hills or streets, the noise is just for 1 second maybe 1.5 and when I'm going up on long and elevated streets is longer specially on 3rd gear, I just did the oil change on my car a couple weeks a go (quacker state 5W20 , 3 1/2 quarts) and I was hoping to fix the "noise" with that, but is not......the "noise" is like a "click click click click" like valves hitting .......I can't say for how long the engine was doing that "noise", cause I just noticed after driving with my windows open
My car have 125,000 kilometers and the timing belt was change at 108,000 kilos, no A/C on the car
Take a look on 2:00 minutes, right after the guy release the pedal, the "click click click" noise : Sunet ciudat motor Hyundai Accent 1,4 DOHC - YouTube
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My 2005 Prius is having a problem with the AC. It will only blow cold air if the temp is set at MAX COLD. Any other temp setting and it will blow hot air. Really hot air. It makes no difference what the outside or inside temps are. Is there a simple fix for this? I can control the AC by setting it on Max Cold and changing the fan speed, but I would like for it to work on the auto setting the way it is supposed to.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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Alright so my car is up to 112k miles, other than oil change, a battery,tires, and a new ignition (tumblers fell apart somehow) its had zero maintenance really done to it. Which I know, this means its long over due for things like spark plugs, timing belt, and other mic. stuff. Its almost all highway miles, and really has no problems. I haven't put much into it because it hardly gets driven in the summer since I ride my motorcycle. The only issue is that Indiana has had a lot of rain this year so ive been driving it more.
The Problem- for months now its made a light ticking sound on start-up for about 30 seconds, and it fades away. If I rev the engine the sound gets faster, but still takes time to go away. As of Recently, the sound has gotten louder for about the first 10 seconds, and I'm worried it may become a serious issue and leave me stranded because I drive about an hour one way to work every day. So before I start throwing parts at it, where should I start?
Timing belt?
Valve Adjustment? (not sure how to do this but I'm sure there is a guide)
Plugs?
No I'm not running a FRAM Filter, its a Mobile 1, with full synthetic oil changed about every 6-7k miles. I plan to do the belt and spark plugs as soon as I get some consistent time off, but that may not be until it gets cold again.
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I have a 2010 Accent. My Accent has a tapping sound when the engine is cold. I have read on this site that others have had this problems and it was the chain tensioner. I was wondering if this was something Hyundia would fix for free or how much it cost to get this fixed. Is there a recall for this problem? There appears to be a problem with a chain tensioner on the 2010 model of Accent.
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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On cold start ups only I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's a consistent sound that goes away after the engine warms up and idles down. Could it be the belts? I'm not concerned to be honest because the engine runs fine.
NOTE: I have also noticed that when cold in between shifts the vehicle seems to hesitate, almost as if trying to catch up. Hard to explain, but it only happens when the engine is cold.
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