Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 - Tachometer Reading 0 And Rough Idle / Hard To Start
May 17, 2015
I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
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Check engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.
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I just bought a 2010 Accent for my daughter and this was the 2nd time I filled it up. I realize now I should not have topped it off all the way but I did. The tank was probably bone dry when I filled it up as well. Within 5 miles after I filled it up, it started running rough and the check engine light came on. I stopped it and checked around under the hood. Checked to make sure the gas cap was tight. I drove it again and it appeared to run fine. I stopped by an Autozone and had the code checked. It was a misfire code for cylinder 3.
Drove it home (10 miles) and parked it. I took the battery terminal off and cleared the CEL. When my wife drove it a few minutes later, the CEL came on again and it started running rough. Had the code checked again and the cylinder 3 code came back. The guy at Autozone said over-filling the tank when it was empty probably caused too much pressure on the fuel going into cylinder 3 and that it should correct itself in the next few days. I drove it 20 miles to work today without any problems. It seemed like it had to be related to filling up the tank since it happened a few minutes later.
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I'm a diesel mechanic and know my way around Powerstrokes, this 4.0 is not what I would usually work on, but I have a friend who has 2006 explorer 4.0L SOHC, someone told him he needed a motor with out explanation why, so I didn't want to see him get ripped off. The problem is it idles very rough, hard to start, and stalls. There's no DTCs , if you hold the accelerator slightly it will stay running, but once you let off it will either idle really bad and misfire or cut off, once pushing the accelerator the rpms raise very smoothly up til 3500 which is what I assume the rev limit is in nuetral.
I've done checks with focom and forscan, I was thinking possibly a bad fuel pump, while monitoring fuel pressure I see a range of 289 - 326 kpa with 26% fuel pump I guess duty cycle would be the correct term(once again I'm a diesel guy, and use to dealing with IPRs and Hpops) not sure if the desired fuel pressure is relevant on these but it always stays at 269kpa. I believe that equals out to 40-48psi while I believe this system is supposed to have somewhere in the range of 60 - 70, but I wouldn't expect to get a rough idle with no load with almost 50 psi of fuel pressure.
So with no DTCs Im baffled, and don't want to start wasting money just throwing parts at it. I've thought everything from fuel pressure sensor, to coil pack(replaced 4 months ago) to crank and cam sensors.
I did end up getting a code p106, but I believe this is because I didnt tighten the intake hose after checking the throttle bottle, I just slid it back on. out of the 4 days of testing first time I seen a code pop up besides unplugging some sensors here and there to make sure the pcm would actually register a dtc.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I've had the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter changed.I notice it when im at a stop light, dont know if it does it in Park. Iv been told if it was the spark plugs or wires that the check engine light would turn on, and its not on. What should I check next????
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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I've had my 2010 Accent for about 9 months. It's got about 63K miles on it. Serviced regularly, no issues there. Yesterday while coming home from a road trip....6 hours there, heavy driving while in town, 6 hours back 2 days later, the check engine light came on the dash. I then noticed that the car was idling very rough. When I put it in gear after starting, I can visibly see the car the shake. Having major problems accelerating, I have to mash the gas to the floor to make it go. Shutting off the air conditioner seems to work a bit, but not totally.
I should note that I live in the South East US, it was over 95 degrees when we left town and the destination was over 100 the entire time we were there. I was told this could be vapor lock, but am not sure about what to do to clear that when the temps won't drop around here for some time. I took it to AutoZone this morning to have them read the codes on the check engine light and was told that their code reader was incompatible with my car.
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I have a 2009 Accent and after about 20 minutes of driving it started running really rough and my check engine light came on. It's worse at an idle (feels like it's going to stall out) but isn't quite as bad when I rev it. My first thought is water in the gas tank since we've had a lot of rain for the past week or so and I filled it up a day or two ago.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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I have a 2008 Accent SE and I'm having some issues... The car was driving fine the other day all the sudden check engine light came on started flashing then and just stayed on. This happen before and the car was under warranty so the dealership fixed it but now it ran out and it's happening again. Anyway the car is running very rough at idle like the car shakes and acts like it doesn't want to run. Also when driving it honestly feels like the car has no power or acceleration what so ever. I replaced the air filter with a brand new K&N filter, I also changed the spark plugs today. I put NGK's in and the problem is still the same. I had it hooked to a code reader and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 2. I thought the plugs would have fixed it but I guess not.
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My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
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Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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I have a 2010 Accent GLS with 96,000 miles. Up to now I have only needed to do regular maintenance (which I do myself usually ) and had no major issues other than the sway bar drop link problem which I found the solution to on this forum. And self destructing spark plugs (on 3 separate occasions).
The other day while driving, the car surged once like it was running out of fuel. Then the tachometer stopped functioning. And if I floored the accelerator to cause a downshift I would lose power and the car would surge until I let up on the accelerator and the car would up shift. The CEL came on and I had the code read. It was P0339. So I replace the crankshaft sensor and everything went back to normal and the CEL went off. Until 2 days later...
Today the CEL came back on. I had no issues while driving as far as I could tell. I had the code read again and it came up as P0336, P0300, P0302, and P0303. The odd thing is I have no starting or running issues. So I'm really not sure what is going on here.
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I just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
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