Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 Stalling Intermittently Always When Idling
Oct 14, 2013
My 2010 Accent has been stalling intermittently, always when I am idling. I'll be at a stop light, and it will stall, and then it usually starts right up again. It is almost always the same stop light on my way to work, like clockwork, and likewise on my way home from work. Also, sometimes right after this stalling event, the motor will be a little rough on the highway, sputtering like it's not getting gas very well, but then it evens out after a while.
Yesterday for the first time it died and wouldn't start again. I suspected my fuel pump had gone out. I had it towed to a repair shop, but it started just fine for them and they can't re-create the problem. It doesn't give any computer codes at all.
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Twice today my car stalled out while idling. Once at a left turn red light and once in the drive thru. The first time it restarted after about 10 minutes. The second time it restarted after about 2 minutes.
Car is throwing cod P0339 for Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent.
I did some reading up on this on the forums but didn't do much about it. I just tried wiggling the wiring and all that when idling, didn't notice any roughness or stalling so.... may not be a connector issue.
Anyhow, planning to take it in for diagnosis and repair as it's really not derivable the way it is.
Actually this is the first time ever the car has given me engine trouble of any kind. just passed 90,000 miles. Shucks, streak broken.
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I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
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I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.
Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.
Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?
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I have a 2010 Equinox with about 52000 miles on it. At about 48,000 I took it in for the 50G maintenance. The car ran with a fluttery sound that I did not really notice until it was brought to my attention. Recently the car began running rough and stalling when idling. there were no warning or indicator lights lit. I had OnStar run a remote diagnostic and they said there were no codes. The day after the diagnostic the check engine light went on , while at the same tie the rough idle and stalling went away.
I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
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We own a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. Occasionally, when my daughter is driving at very low speeds, such as braking when approaching a stop sign or stop light, or when she is accelerating from a stop, the engine shuts off, forcing her to stop the vehicle, put the car in park, and restart the engine. Fortunately, the engine always restarts. Unfortunately, however, the problem only occurs intermittently. It may happen twice within an hour, and then not again for two or three weeks. As a result, the problem has not been duplicated by the dealer or any other repair shop. And, when plugged into the computer, none of the codes show up. So far the dealer has removed carbon from the throttle valve control unit and replaced the alternator. But the problem continues. Not sure what do to next as the dealer says he is baffled.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent that won't start. My wife was driving home the other day, and while she was sitting at the light she said she noticed a sudden change in the idle. She said the car starting shaking a little and idling really rough. When she tried to accelerate after the light changed, she said the car sputtered and would barely go.
She was only a couple of blocks from the house so she continued home. The car made it the rest of the way home, but she said it never went over about 5 mph even though she was pressing the accelerator as she would if she were going about 30...the car just never responded. When she pulled into the garage the car died as she was turning. Now it will crank but it won't start at all.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor with my multimeter and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and I tested it immediately. The new one works, so I plugged everything back in and tried to start the car...nothing, just cranks and won't start. It's getting fuel and fire as well (tested both), but it's not hitting on any of the cylinders.
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About 2 months ago my 2008 accent 3 dr hatchback started to do what i can only explain as a hiccup while idling and also when first hitting the gas. But I didn't have. Check engine light on. So I changed the air filter and put techron a fuel injector cleaner in it stopped until last night so I am replacing the spark plugs. Is there any thing else i should look in to replacing?
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I have a 2010 Accent GS, 5 speed. While sitting at a red light, or even rolling in neutral, the car will just die out. 90% of the time, the car will start right back up, no problem. A few times, though, it would not start right back up.. I put my flashers on, and just keep trying. It eventually starts up again, as people honk and get angry at me, but once a nice guy pulled over and offered to give me a jump and it started right up. I drove right to an autoparts store and had them test my battery, starter and alternator. All came back perfectly fine. There is no check engine light coming on when this happens. There is no code produced. A knowledgeable friend recommended i just change the battery since my car is 6yrs old, 104k miles. He said he had a similar experience and just changing out the battery solved everything. Well, i just did that and it stalled again. That obviously was not the problem.
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Whenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
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My Accent is a 2007. It regularly has the check engine light come on. They continually claim it's the fuel cap. When it's colder, even when it's been running it continually stalls when your putting it in reverse. They also claim that's not a problem. It's only got 25K on it. So the fact that it's already have problems is rather annoying.
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So recently my 2009 hyundai accent has been idling rough, and has been very sluggish when accelerating. Usually the rough idling is the worst when the car is first turned on and tends to tone down as the car keeps running. I had the codes red and I believe it was C0302 C0303 C0304, saying that cylinders 2-4 were misfiring.
I replaced the spark plugs which didn't fix the problem, although cylinder 4 did have a small amount of oil above the spark plug and a little bit more below the spark plug, I am not sure if that means anything useful or not. I don't have a way to check the coils directly but I swapped coil 2 with coil 1 and checked the codes again and it was still cylinders 2-4 misfiring, so I would imagine that means the coil isn't the problem. I then tried spraying WD-40 around the vacuum tubes, and if the intake manifold is on the back of the engine I tried spraying it around that gasket as well, but I didn't notice a change in the idle speed.
At this point I am not entirely sure how to proceed, from what I have read the issue causing a misfire would be either there isn't a spark, which seems unlikely at this point, or the mixture of fuel to air is wrong. That is the part I am unsure of how to diagnose/
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When idling and when first start to accelerate it feels like my car is hiccuping. I don't know what the issue is. I do know When i first bought The car about 8 months ago the oils Got wet when The dealer power washed he engine.
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So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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I have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
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In the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
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So I bought my accent used a couple months ago. It is a 2007 SE 3dr 5spd manual. It ran nice during my test drive and the price was right so I bought it.
Now I'm wondering if there is any way to find out the service history on the car...at least the major one's (30k, 60k)?
I ask because recently the engine was idling a little rough and it threw a P0302 code so I changed the spark plugs and holy-cruddy-deposits-batman those things were black. Gapped the new ones and popped them in and its a noticeable difference. My CEL keeps coming on and throwing a P0496 code as well, virtually once every tank of gas. Its not the gas cap so my next step there is to check the PCSV and hoses.
With these little problems, it makes me wonder about any larger issues. I know the timing belt on these things is supposed to be replaced at 60k. Additionally I would be willing to bet that my ECM software is out of date. Would Hyundai have records for any of the big maintenance milestones since they are required for warranty work?
How much does it cost to have a dealer check your ECM software and update it if needed?
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Recently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
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Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
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My 2008 Accent will intermittently crank crank and will not turn over. You can hear it trying to start but it seems like its not getting fuel. Then I will stop turning the key, try again and it will start. It may do this two or three times before starting. I have no codes.
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