Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 - Sputters At Idle With Intermittent Exhaust
Jan 29, 2015
For a couple months now, maybe longer, my 2010 Accent has developed a funny "rough sputter" I would call it at idle. It seems to be getting worse and worries me now. The RPMs fluctuate as it happens. The CEL has never come on throughout this. I'm not 100% sure it's not present when driving.
I did not replace the Fuel Filter at four years or the Fuel Air Filter at two years & four years. Could this be a Fuel Filter related problem?
I got out of my car today to listen to it and noticed the exhaust was intermittent along with hearing the car sputter.
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I recently bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent 1.6L DOHC manual transmission hatchback with 124000 miles. So far the work I have done in the car include replacing front bank 02 sensor, new flex pipe, exhaust manifold replaced with a used OEM part. Everything is going great with the car except that the check engine light is on with the P0442 and I occasionally smell gas or exhaust fumes (not sure) while driving and it goes away. My combined mpg is only about 23mpg.
I replaced the gas cap with a brand new OEM part then cleared the CEL. However, after driving 90 miles, it went back on so I brought it to my mechanic who recommended a smoke test. After the smoke test, he said the charcoal canister and the diagnostic module needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing to fix the CEL code and if the code is related to me smelling fumes inside the car while driving. Also, I would like to know if there might be another problem causing this code instead of the charcoal canister or the diagnostic module.
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I just bought a 2010 Sonata. It runs just fine while running and about half of the time while I'm idling. The other half of the time I can feel my engine sputter. At first it wasn't all that bad but it has gotten worse lately. What could be causing this?
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I just bought a 2010 Accent for my daughter and this was the 2nd time I filled it up. I realize now I should not have topped it off all the way but I did. The tank was probably bone dry when I filled it up as well. Within 5 miles after I filled it up, it started running rough and the check engine light came on. I stopped it and checked around under the hood. Checked to make sure the gas cap was tight. I drove it again and it appeared to run fine. I stopped by an Autozone and had the code checked. It was a misfire code for cylinder 3.
Drove it home (10 miles) and parked it. I took the battery terminal off and cleared the CEL. When my wife drove it a few minutes later, the CEL came on again and it started running rough. Had the code checked again and the cylinder 3 code came back. The guy at Autozone said over-filling the tank when it was empty probably caused too much pressure on the fuel going into cylinder 3 and that it should correct itself in the next few days. I drove it 20 miles to work today without any problems. It seemed like it had to be related to filling up the tank since it happened a few minutes later.
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The timing belt went out at idle while making a turn. I changed the timing belt, but when cranked you have to pump the gas to keep it running and it is really rough running with a smell of gas when you turn it off. On the last run it backfired slightly. There is no knocking or pinging. And have triple checked the timing. Could improper torque on the crankshaft bolt cause this or failed ignition coils?
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I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
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I'm going to take my Elantra in to get it checked. My Elantra is a 2013, got it in March. Over the last few weeks, I would say, on 4 days or so there has been a STRONG exhaust smell. No smoke, nothing else but a smell. If I'm pulling into the garage with no idling, just pull in and park, I get out and the smell in the garage is very strong. I have to leave the garage open for at least an hour if not more to air it out. The cab ends up having a light smell inside the next day still.
If I'm parking outside when I get out I can still smell it, but not quite as strong, because I'm not in an enclosed area. I don't think it's an exhaust manifold leak, because I don't hear the popping. My best guess is it would be in the tail pipe area pre-catalytic converter, or in the catalytic converter if it is in fact an exhaust leak.
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This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
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2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
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The dealer has tested every system for leaks and can't find any. They have changed the filters. They have contacted Nissan to see if there were other complaints of this nature and there weren't. They did a smoke test to detect any leaks that weren't visible to the naked eye and found nothing. This problem has not occurred at the dealership only when I'm driving but my husband, daughter, son-in-law and car pool buddy have all been in the car when the smell was evident. It's very strong and smells like you're in a gas station with the windows open.
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I have a 2009 Accent. Last year I started to have a hard start issue, very intermittent. It eventually got worse this year.
During the cold, it was never an issue, but during the summer damp or rainy days it occurred quite frequently.
It would turn over, but never start. If I pressed the gas peddle while starting it up, it usually would start the 2nd or 3rd time.
I changed the usual start up components; plugs, ignition coils, cam shaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, and cleaned the throttle body.
None of those changes worked for the startup. When I removed my throttle body to fully clean it again, I noticed there was an extra air channel into the engine from the TB. Following this, I found the ISCA.
Removing, taking apart, and cleaning the idle speed control actuator seemed to have fixed the issue. It was so caked up with carbon deposit/build up, it couldn't fully rotate.
I used the throttle body cleaner to clean it out and then it began to spin freely (I removed it from the black sensor part first).
Since putting it back altogether, I haven't had a start up issue since.
Here are the notes from the service manual .....
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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After I drive a while I get a ticking , loss of power very briefly, white puff of smoke. Could it be rod bearings? Timing belt just replaced.
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Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
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Accent 2006. When I start the car and start to drive, the car rock on the driver's side. I think it's the driver's rear. Then the feeling of a flat tire is felt but the tire seems to be ok. Occasionally hear a loud noise like from the exhaust and when I stop at a stop sign or stop lights and release the brake the car does not move till the accelerator is pressed and it rocks again and moves. It has 99000 km on it.
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4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
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I have a 2010 corolla with 32k miles, automatic transmission. I have an intermittent low idle issue when it rained or when it is below freezing 32F. It happens when I am in drive and about to brake to a complete stop. The idle dips to around 500 rpm, the engine shudders and the car shakes then after a second or two, the engine idle goes back up to 800 rpm. There is no engine concerns at any other speed just at idle. I have no CEL codes. The engine never stalls. Low idle when braking.
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I bought a used Ranger a couple months ago and it ran fine when I test drove it but a week later it started having a misfire every now and then at idle.. I must have gotten pretty unlucky with the test drives..
The misfire comes and goes, it will run fine for a week or two and then it will misfire at idle for a week or two. It only seems to misfire at idle, the truck runs rough/shakes but once you give it a little gas and start moving it goes away. Usually it has a check engine light on from startup when it's misfiring and it goes away on days that it's running fine; it will occasionally misfire at idle with no check engine light. Sometimes when its running really rough the CEL flashes while it's misfiring at idle and I've actually restarted it real quick and the misfire went away for a bit. The engine codes that come up are misfire on startup and misfire on cylinder 4.
I've tried cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the fuel filter, testing for spark and compression. Compression was 150-155 PSI on all cylinders, however, the compression on cylinder 4 is different depending on whether the truck is running well or not. When it's misfiring the compression on cyl. 4 is 90 PSI and when it's running fine it's 150 PSI. I'm not sure what could be causing intermittent low compression like that?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
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I've been experiencing an annoying intermittent condition on my '07 Sonata (Lambda V6). I wanted to share this in case any of you are experiencing intermittent rough idle complaints in your Sonata (4G) as well. I was finally able to get it into the dealership during the malfunction; in my case, the MIL never lit. Here are the symptoms: ONLY after being fully warmed up, when coming to a full stop, or using just idle speed to, for example, pull into a parking space, or inch up to a stoplight, I would experience a very rough idle (I could hear the engine sputtering with the window down), see the RPM gauge bouncing, and feel the vehicle going "putt-putt-putt" as it tried to keep running under what seemed to be a misfire or too much load. The problem occurred more noticeably with the A/C off but still did occur with it on as well. While exhibiting this problem, acceleration from a stop gave a slight hesitation as well, but once going faster than 1,000RPMs, the problem went away totally. I thought it must have been my imagination until one day, I pulled up in front of a glass window and could see the reflection of my car lurching forward as it struggled to keep idling. Getting it to the dealership while it was behaving badly was the hardest part.
Once I got there, I got a tech to ride with me and finally, after 3 visits to the dealership, someone else witnessed the problem. Up until now, I've been asking people, "Do you feel/hear that?" "Huh?" I digress... The tech immediately said he thought it was a power steering issue and he thought there was an upcoming bulletin on it. I was sure he was wrong, I was thinking it had to be the spark plugs, wires, MAF, or TPS.
After getting the part in for me (Power Steering Sensor Switch) they put it in today and my vehicle is just as new again. It was never a serious issue, but was rather embarrassing to try and show off my Sonata and have it stutter and sputter like that it idle.
This part is complete speculation; maybe a more knowledgeable person can jump in here and correct any logical errors: Apparently, there is a switch in the Power Steering Unit that detects highway speeds versus slower speeds. When vehicle speed is above a certain limit, the power steering pump is either turned off or "turned way down" (so people get the stiffer feel of the wheel at highway speeds). When the vehicle slows down to idle (to be detected by this switch), the vehicle expects the power steering pump will draw full power from the engine and needs to have a slightly higher idle speed to compensate for the load. My switch was malfunctioning; it was not registering to the ECM that the power steering pump was under load when it actually was; the vehicle then did not bump up the idle speed appropriately, and thus, the rough idle and hesitation.
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I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
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