Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 - Rear Wheel Stud Broken
Sep 8, 2014
I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
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I broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
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I went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
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I broke one of the wheel/hub studs on my 2006 Ford Focus, when I tried to take the wheel off. So, this car lived through 7 winters in Boston metropolitan area, and it has about 90,000 miles on it.
I bought the car used last summer, so I don't know what the previous owner did, but I have always torqued my wheels since I bought it. But one of them broke off anyway, when I tried to take the wheel off. I took off the brake caliper and the disc to see the condition of the broken stud. The hub and the stud seemed to have rusted together. I recently moved from California via Oregon, so I am not used to seeing a lot of rust on anything. So, I can't tell whether that is a lot of rust or just normal run-of-the-mill rust I shouldn't have to worry too much about.
I checked online and found that if a bolt/stud is rusted, and if I cannot get it loose by banging it with a hammer, I should torch it and let it cool before trying to loosen it again.
I would like to hear some anecdotes about loosening wheel studs. I went to Harbor Freight today to get a hammer. One guy told me I should get the 8 pounder with a long handle (looked to be 3 feet or longer), so it will be easier to aim and provide steady force. He said it would be like putting a golf ball. I was also looking to get a torch, and he said that I need to heat it until it glowed, so small propane bottle torch would not be enough. But he said for a relatively newer car like mine, a few taps with an 8-pound sledge hammer should be enough.
I am also concerned that I might end up breaking more stuff and have to replace the entire hub, which would be a costly proposition. How much would it cost if I took it to a mechanic?
Also, seeing that some of the other nuts didn't go in smoothly, would it do any good to replace all the lug nuts?
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I need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
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So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
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I tried to lower the back seat the other day and the right side handle that you pull up snapped off. I can't figure out how to lower the back seat with the handle broken. I've tried reaching down with a pliers to grasp where the handle was connected and pull up but I can't get it to work. How to fix this?
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The right side of my driver side door handle recently came detached, and I can't get in my vehicle unless I crawl in through the passenger seat.
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Had new tires put on yesterday and today my TPMS light came on. I guess one of the sensors came loose as I can hear it rattling around in the LR tire.
My question is do I have to replace all four sensors or can I just replace the one?
08 Accent SE.
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I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.
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So I was replacing a wheel stud and while taking the caliper out, I accidentally unscrewed the brake fluid bolt and it drained a little bit of fluid out. I had to decompress the caliper to put the brake pads in.
Everything was placed back the correct way, now the brake feels too spongy and I have to press the pedal all the way to stop the car. not feeling safe.
I'm not sure what needs to be done here.. did I somehow get air in the system? the brake fluid cap was on the whole time.
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The last 2 times I have taken my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan in for tire rotation, the service guy informed me that I had a broken bolt (one of the five) that holds the front wheel on. One time it was a left front wheel, next the right front wheel. They replaced the bolts and lug nuts. I told this to lots of people and no one has ever heard of wheel bolts breaking - on any car! I have rotated the tires regularly at other establishments and have never had this problem. My question: Is this unusual? A known problem with Dodges. Am I being "taken for a ride" by the dealer?
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Unfortunately I broke off one of the wheel studs on the front drivers side of my 2010 Prius. I got a new stud from Toyota but I'm not sure exactly how to put the new one on. Looking for any steps on how to replace a front wheel stud? Not even sure how to raise calipers/remove rotor (if that's necessary to replace stud)....
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We just bought our 2008 Elantra. The door handle just fell off. I have a warranty and have been trying to get the dealership which has been futile. The handle is plastic. I am tempted to just glue it. This is not the greatest first problem to have right after buying the car and bein unable to reach the dealer.
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Ok , so now my sun shade is broken and set at 80% open. It will not move at all. 07 GS350. It was fun while it lasted.
Oh wait and my rear-view mirror has a bunch of black inside the mirror.
I will probably have a bunch of stuff for sale soon. BC-R coils with Swift springs , AC front lip, Rear ISF difuser, Lexus Japan Visors and some mods.
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I'm talking about the little nylon ropes that lift up the parcel shelf when you open the hatch. On my 2010 the car came off the lot (zero miles) with both retainers broken. Theyve broken again since then and were replaced; I talked to the dealer and there's no preventative fix, just replace them every time they break. Any thoughts? I tried to search this but I think I'm calling the parcel shelf/deck thingy the wrong name...
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I have a 2007 Sonata and the rear driver side exterior door handle broke. How to repair it? Does the interior panel need to come off? I see a screw under the pivot side and an interior bolt through an access port from the inside.
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My 2008 Sonata's Speaker grill at left rear door is broken. How much does it cost to replace it . From the previous posts it's like I cannot replace the grill alone. Its like something hit in the center and it got broken.
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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