Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 - Engine Would Not Even Turn Over / Just A Click Of Starter Solenoid
Dec 18, 2013
I have a 2010 Accent with 106 000 km on it (Canada). A couple months ago (just as warranty expired) the car would not start. Nothing. Engine would not even turn over. Just a click of the starter solenoid. battery had a load test and is fine. Removed negative battery cable and cleaned the cable where it bolts to the body under the battery tray. Battery terminals were both cleaned at the same time.
Things worked fine for a couple weeks and the problem is back but worse. Everything in the car works fine when it won't start. If I continually turn the key to the start position it will eventually start to turn over and start fine. Sometimes it takes 20-30 turns of the key till it turns over and starts. When it does turn over and start, the engine turns over fine at the normal speed. Not slow like a weak battery.
Dealer is useless. Had a coil go a couple months back just before the warranty expired and they told us that the reason the coil went was that the car had been rust proofed by someone other than Hyundai.
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A couple of years after buying this I had problems with door locks and power windows. (No locking or unlocking or up/down) after looking this up as recommended I removed and replaced all the relays in the power distribution panel. (No fix) I next removed the battery so I could turn this power distribution panel over, then unplugged all the plugs and reseated them. (Wiring plugs) this got everything working. About 1 year later the same issue, with the same fix. About one more year later I encountered a starting issue... you could hear the solenoid click, but no starter engagement.
I checked the starter and it was good. So on a hunch I flipped the fuse panel over, reseated the wire plugs and it started right up, but it was intermittent for a few weeks. After several unplug and reseat the wires it was good again. Six months later it would spin the starter fine, but wouldn't start up. I first checked for fuel and it was good. Next I checked for spark and there wasn't any. Just a hunch... I went after the power distribution again and ended up taking it completely apart, also computer on the end of it, cleaned up all the connections and it fired right up.
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Our 2004 GX has been a great car, but is suddenly doing a number of strange things - like not start. When I say it won't start, I mean you can turn the key, the dash lights up, the steering wheel adjusts, radio goes on, etc, but then NOTHING! No solenoid "click", no starter noise, NOTHING! Does not crank at all. The car just turned 60,000 miles, is in great shape, lives in the garage and has never been in an accident.
After the first couple of times it did this, had the battery replaced, as it was getting close. and then the car started again. Until the next day. No rhyme or reason as to when it would do this. It might start 10 times in a row, then NOT start for a while, then magically fire up instantly, even after several key turns. I wiggled the key, tried a different key, shifted to Neutral, wiggled the shifter to try to rule out security interlock, bad ignition switch and shift interlock. No dice.
Did some more research and thought it might be the starter relay - banged on it and it started, so replaced that part. Didn't solve the problem. It also began to randomly die while idling (in park, or in drive). Sometimes it would re-start, sometimes not. The times it has done this, it typically dies after running or 15-20 minutes, but NOT ALWAYS.... Sometimes it will die once, then be good for the rest of the day. Sometimes it re-starts immediately, after a few minutes, or more recently only after sitting for a few hours.. So basically we can't use the car.
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Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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Have a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
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I am having problems with starting my 06 sonata. When I put the key in the ignition there is power, but when I turn the key the engine does not start. There is a faint click. This seems intermittent as most times the car starts normally. The battery shouldn't be the problem as I replaced it not long ago.
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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I'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
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The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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The timing belt went out at idle while making a turn. I changed the timing belt, but when cranked you have to pump the gas to keep it running and it is really rough running with a smell of gas when you turn it off. On the last run it backfired slightly. There is no knocking or pinging. And have triple checked the timing. Could improper torque on the crankshaft bolt cause this or failed ignition coils?
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I am mostly a domestic car guy, but recently been working on some Toyotas for friends. The situation:
'95 Celica ST, 2.2 5 speed, 200K miles. Died when coming to a light. The car was towed to my friend's house. Battery was completely dead. Replaced battery and checked alternator and starter at Advanced Auto. Both checked good.
Car would not crank or even click the solenoid. Changed out both positive and negative cables. No start. Checked solenoid terminal, 0 volts. Replaced starter relay in fusebox. Still so volts at starter solenoid terminal. What else should I check other than the ignition switch? Not familiar with the wiring, how should I check?
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My Accent recently died in traffic. All of the electronic components seem to be working. The engine cranks but does not turn over. I removed the spark plugs and they were soaked in gasoline and the plugs on the 1st and 2nd cylinder had a black residue. I dried them off and tried to start the car again, no luck. The spark plugs were soaked in gas.
Over the summer (5 months ago) 2 ignition coils fouled out and I replaced them along with all of the spark plugs.
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Today the CEL on my 2010 HB with 30,000km came on and the car ran rough like it had a bad spark plug. I went straight home and luckily had a set on hand and replaced them. Car now runs like before but the CEL is still on.
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Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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