Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - When Transmission Is In Gear And Throttle Pushed It Revs Up Like It Is In Neutral
Jun 8, 2015
The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent 4-door 1.4L auto, 123,000 miles.
Before you ask: The high mileage is because it's used for a newspaper route. We(as in, myself and my father) take great efforts to keep it in as good a shape as possible given the amount of stress this puts on it - one minor deer impact aside, I think we've done a good job.
Recently(read: a week ago), we replaced the purge flow valve due to it causing stalls and difficulty starting after refueling. After a week of apparently fine operation, as I was nearing completion of the route, a very clear cylinder misfire began. Not the worst misfire I've ever heard - the car barely seemed to struggle on initial acceleration(except in reverse, which made me slightly concerned I wasn't feeling an engine issue, but a transmission issue), and only got really shaky at higher revs.
We have an OBD-II reader at home, so when I returned I plugged it and discovered not one, but TWO error codes: P0497 -low purge flow- and P0301 -Cylinder 1 misfire- with the reader listing them in that order.
Looking up information on these two being connected has turned up little support - I've only learned that either one can be cause and effect. Needless to say given timing I strongly believe that it is highly likely that we either made a mistake installing the new valve, or that the new valve was bad from the get-go.
We'll be checking the spark plugs as soon as we are able(I am about to go to sleep and my dad has work - we tag team automotive repairs since two sets of eyes and two brains can figure things out better and an extra set of hands is always good to have ready even if only one set can actually do the job), but even if the problem isn't the spark plugs, it doesn't automatically mean it's the purge valve, either - at least as I understand things.
So with the background out of the way, my questions are thus:
1) Is the spark plugs don't fix anything, what is the quickest way to figure out which error is cause and which error is effect?
2) Are there any serious risks to continuing to run the car in this state if a fix cannot be made immediately? (being able to borrow another car is possible, but problematic - need to stick with this car if safely doable)
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My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
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I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
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My 2009 Sonata, 2. 4 L engine, base model with automatic transmission started up and ran OK, but 20 minutes later when I parked the car and shifted towards Park the gears grinded in neutral, stopped grinding in Reverse, and then grinded again when I made it to Park, and I quickly turned off the engine.
When I restarted, it grinded in Park, OK past Reverse, Grinded in Neutral, and then OK in Drive. How serious this is, or if there is anything I can check out on my own?
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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Caravan acting like it was in neutral when she put it into gear and then jumping abruptly. She solved the problem by turning it off and back on. I think her problem might be the Speed Sensor b/c my Ford Taurus did the same thing for years: When put into gear, doesn't move and revs like in neutral, then suddenly jumps into gear sometimes. Problem could sometimes be solved by turning it off and on or moving gear shift to park and then back to drive. Also, even after warming up, when starting from a stop it would stay in 1st gear and not shift up, then suddenly shift up and car would jerk forward. Sometimes when it wouldn't switch gears the RPMs would remain high, even on highway. We thought we needed a new transmission! We found on line that it might be the speed sensor, which lets the car know what speed you are going. We switched it out and all the problems disappeared!
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So I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
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My friend told me the other day her car was in overdrive (hwy driving) and suddenly, it shifted to a lower gear. It seems no one knows why. She does have an extended warranty, but the garage might charge her $300 to open it up to see what is wrong. Another friend suggested a clogged filter. Another one, a sensor.
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2007 accent GS 5 speed manual. car has 142,000 miles. Trans popping out of 5th gear under load. interstate driving 65 MPH going up hill. Pops out but goes back into 5th. Car does not pop out of the other forward gears at this time. Car has very good clutch, no slipping. Short shifter, alu. trans/shifter bushing. shifter cables are adjusted correctly. Are my sliders and dog gears for 5th worn out??? Or is my fork bent?? Or both. Do I need to pull trans?
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I have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
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When cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
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I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
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My wife has been using her mom's 07 Accent, the mom is 90 and hasn't been incapable of using it for a while now. I did an oil change (without paying much attention) I've never seen this type of car before. Oddly the oil level seemed outrageously over full and still dirty
Then upon driving it the automatic transmission was all wacky, not engaging at idle, then it abruptly chunking into gear...
So I check the transmission fluid level and it's not on the stick. Research here let me know SP-III is what I'd need. Then while surfing a youtube vid regarding this model's transmission it hit me in the face, I'd drained the automatic transmission fluid! Went to the Kia dealer got 3 quarts dumped it in there, drained the overfilled 5.5 quarts of old and new oil rectifying my mistake, which brings me to the reason for this post.
This 2007 car only has 24,300 miles on it and I mistook the automatic transmission fluid for outrageously dirty engine oil! I swear this stuff looks like it's fulla carbon black n burnt up. My question: is it normal for the trans-fluid to have such a degraded appearance in only 25,000 miles?
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I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
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I recently had the transmission fluid changed in my 2009 Sonata NF 4 cyl. Current mileage is 60,000 miles. Directly afterwards, the transmission started "sliding" into 4th gear from 3rd gear. I assume that fluid contamination has caused a clog somewhere in the transmission. I have had the tsb done on the car for the transmission and the fluid had been exchanged @ 30,000 miles prior to this service.
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About 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
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It does not like to stay in 5th gear, drops out to neutral. 2001 Accent Hatchback. 1.5l 5-speed
The other day it started slipping out of 5th gear on the expressway. Held good for the first 10 to 20 minutes. Afterwards I had to hold it in 5th for it to stay in gear. While holding I noticed it pushed on the shifter when applying throttle, and let up some when I let of the gas.
I inspected the pivots at the transmission. The forward / back bushing was not installed properly by the previous owner. I rigged it up better with a fender washer and cotterpin. It previously had just a pin and the bushing had expanded out. This removed the play from shifting I had previously noticed. It also halfway fixed the popping out of gear. It stays in gear a little longer, and when I put it back into 5th it stays there for a while most of the time.
I have not inspected the lubricant level yet. Where to check next?
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