Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Sudden Shut Off On The Highway / Cam Sensor Fault
Feb 8, 2016
So a friends 09 Accent suddenly shut off while on the highway, she started it back up and drove about 1 more minute and it died again, and has not fired up since.
The only code was a P0342P (pending), cam sensor fault, went to the dealer and the master tech said it will run with a bad cam sensor and that it is likely the crankshaft position sensor. So we bought that ($116 with my military discount), no dice.
It cranks over smoothly (however I did not think to look at the cam through the cam sensor hole until after I had left)
I pulled a cop and checked for spark, it lit the fuel/air out of the tube, so yes on spark and fuel.
All relays were swapped, fuses are good.
I suspect the timing belt let go, as these are interference motors it is likely the motor is toast. Or any chance it is not?
She bought this car brand new, just put front tires on a few days ago and an oil change, 98xxx miles, white 2 door, 5 speed, looks good otherwise, and has been taken good care of!!
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Although the 2009 Accents don't have automatic running lights, since I got the car I'd just been keeping the headlights turned on. (Yes I know this will cut the life of the lights themselves but it's not a bad safety step for a small car).
This worked well of course - the headlights would come on when the car was started, headlights and parking lights would go off when the car was stopped.
I've done nothing different but in recent weeks however the parking lights have been staying on quite often - though not ALL of the time. While I can't rule out I've done some quirky thing differently that somehow keeps the lights on, googling around and searching this forum indicates that this could be an issue with a relay box which may be costly to replace but still under warranty (I'm under the 5 year 60k mile warranty still)
Now bear in mind, this isn't a situation where the headlights are turned off and stay on - it's just a change from having the headlight knob always on, but the lights would go off when the car was stopped and keys removed.
Obviously the "fix" is simply turn off the headlights when I get out of the car - but I am concerned that there's an inexplicable change and wonder if it's a sign of larger issues regarding a relay that should be addressed while it's under warranty.
I know - very minor in the grand scope of car problems but I do worry about larger electrical issues, especially since the parking light issue seems to be erratic - sometimes it goes off, sometimes it stays on.
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I'm looking for the location of the knock sensor I can't find it?
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The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
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I would get "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" on my display all the time. The problem occurred mostly on long trips, however, it would occur from time to time on shorter trips. I complained to the dealer about this every time I went in for an oil change. They could never find a problem and wanted me to bring it in when the fault was occurring. Of course these thing never happen when you're by a dealer. To my dealers credit they said they would fix the problem out of warranty if we can find it.
Well I found the problem. As strange as it sounds if I use the cigarette lighter with a power USB adapter to charge my phone or iPad I get the fault. If I use the 12V accessory port on the dash no fault.
Last weekend we drove to Nisswa MN & back (about 1,200 miles). To test the theory I only used the 12V accessory port and no fault occurred. Normally the fault would occur w/in 50 miles then just continue on being annoying the whole rest of the trip. I wish I would have found this out 57,000 miles ago. I use the adapter because the USB port on the dash will only charge my iPhone if the phone is off.
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Shifted accidentally from third to second on highway, revved way up and engine shut off, turns over almost started an hour later but didnt want to try to completely start it. still under warranty so how do I get around the OBD reports and get it covered or am I screwed.
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I have a '09 SE Hatchback. A while ago the switch that tells the car the rear hatch is open stopped working. The trunk light no longer comes on and the factory alarm doesn't know when the hatch is open or closed. The switch and accessible wiring are fine. The lower left tail light and the left license plate light have also stopped working. Both bulbs are fine. This leads me to think that there is a break in the wiring harness somewhere between the front foot well and the rear of the car.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6cyl, 4L, 33K miles. When its started up, the message "Tire Sensor Fault" appears along with the low tire icon flashing (steady light after ~30 seconds). I can then press the reset button on my dash to clear the message. However, the tire light icon stays lit. I've checked and re-checked the tire pressure in all the tires (spare included) and I'm right at the recommended 32-34 psi on all the tires. No signs of leaks at all. I'm assuming one (or more) of the tire pressure sensors have gone bad and there's no way for a garage (or myself) to identify which one or repair this. Should I assume a trip to the dreaded dealer for this problem ???
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Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
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All of all sudden, my car is complaining a airbag fault, VCDS scan fault code as below, Does it mean all 10 airbags in my Phaeton is no longer working ?!
Address 15: Airbags
Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 E
Component: 0G Airbag 8.4E+ H10 0934
Coding: 0012359
[Code] ....
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I have had my 2010 Accent just over 2 months now, and have had no problems at all. It has 4500 miles on it (I travel often)
Starting on Monday, when I shut the car off, it made a kind of hollow pinging noise. I have not switched where I fill up my tank, nor have I been driving any differently, to make this happen. This happened again Tuesday morning, but has not happened since.
Then, this morning (Thursday) when I started my car, it made kind of a screeching noise. I immediately shut off the car, and restarted it. I did not hear the noise again. Then tonight, same thing happened.
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I recently changed my spark plugs, timing belt, and PCV valve. I have a throttle bypass, air intake, only mods on the car. The car has been recently idling rough when in drive and at a light. basically the car wants to shut off but doesnt and the idle fluctuates. What it can be the car has 57k miles on it...
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I have a 2006 accent 1.6l dohc. While doing highway speeds the rpms are very high considering the small engine. There for it give me a result of bad fuel mileage with 480km per 40l tank. I'm curious is there is any 6speed transmission I can swap out my 5 speed with in order to give me that extra gear to bring the rpms down.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I have a 2006 accent gls manual and when I am on the highway in 5th gear my rpms are high. if I am cruising at 110km my rpms will be almost at 3500..
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I just bought a 2011 accent 5 spd ... Quick question, when I drive it at highways speeds. (65mph) I notice that i am running around 3500 revs. Is that normal? It seems a little high to me. Every other 4 banger I had never ran that high in 5th gear at 65 mph.
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I need to change the knock sensor of 2011 Accent, don't know where it is.
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2009 accent, cant find its location. Picture would be nice...
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I have a 2009 Hyundai accent. 2 cylinders misfire. I changed out the spark plugs after the misfiring began and the 2 cylinders that misfire don't follow any specific ignition coil, it's just 2 random ones.
Looking at the data with a reader points to fuel injector number 1 not working properly. The first few seconds the car is on the check engine light blinks and fuel injector 1 spray duration (fluctuates based on gas applied) changes just like all the others. However, when the check engine light goes solid (then the misfire code is thrown) fuel injector 1's spray duration is stuck (usually around 3.5 ms)
The cable going into the fuel injector powers those little troubleshooting lights like it should until you plug the cable into the fuel injector OR remove and replace the light a few times.
I don't know much about cars but someone told me to try cleaning out the Mass AirFlow sensor as they had the problem above and the MAF sensor was the cause. I can't find anything on where the MAF sensor is located though.
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Was driving down the highway and got a smell in the car, thought it might be diesal from the truck in front. When I got off and came to a stop, car would not accelerate at first, it hesitated and a puff of grey smoke came out of the back. Stopped for a few minutes everything seemed fine then the check engine light came on. I have managed to get it up with just a couple of rattles, but the check engine light is still on. Have I killed the car by driving it home. The light was not flashing it was completely on.
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