After getting to about 1/4 tank, I fuel up and fill the tank but when I try to start the car, it cranks for a while and then finally starts. It will idle really low so I have to rev it until the engine starts getting gas at a steady pace.
View 9 RepliesThe car doesn't struggle to start at any other time just when fueling. I have a 2011 Accent and I am looking for the locations of the various components involved so I can test them to see where the problem is.
I know the purge valve is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold below the air hose. Now is the solenoid and the valve the same part? I see various diagrams pointing to the valve and labeling it solenoid. The other part is the EVAP canister. I know it's some place near the gas tank but not sure where and I can't find any diagrams online.
I am comfortable with minor repairs. I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and a purge valve before so would this repair be something I could do myself or would I be better off taking it to the dealership?
Probably 20k ago the check engine light came on and was related to the "purge" valve as best I can recall, every mechanic I took it to kind of blew it off as just an emissions thing and not really necessary to fix. so whatever just let the light stay on as the car ran identical to before the light came on.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago and my wife was filling up between classes and after she was done and went to start it, it would turn over but wouldn't start completely, luckily a guy there pump the gas and revving it out as he turned it over. then it ran perfectly fine afterwards, started up perfectly after every time....until we got gas again.
Took it to a local guy a few people I know used, told him about the check engine light and maybe the purge valve thing had finally gotten bad enough to need replacing (this was my guess after some internet digging for the same issue), he troubleshooted and came to the decision to replace the front o2 sensor. Ok I said, your the mechanic not me, do it. did it and next time got gas....same thing.
he had it for another 2 days and "couldn't figure it out", refunded me completely for the o2 sensor & labor, while throwing in the towel today. Next up , Hyundai dealership I suppose. Car is throwing NO CODES whatsoever now, have put several hundred miles on since new o2 sensor.
While he had it he had to replace the master brake cylinder. So that's new as well. I've had to replace all the coils already between 75-85k they started acting up one by one so I said screw it and did them all.
OH and another problem is the airbag light has been on the dash for about the last 6-9 months as well.
The car has just over 111k on it and I've about had it, bullshit problem after another and another. What's next??! I've owned probably 7-9 cars in my life and nothing has given me the aggravation of this car.
Cliffs:
1) car won't start when putting in gas
2) starts if you rev it up for a short while, then will start every time afterwards til next fuel up.
3) o2 sensor is new
4) no more check engine light, no codes, yet still have issue
5) car is starting to wear down my patience with repairs
6) if not a cheap fix, bye bye Hyundai
I'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
View 13 RepliesMy 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
My 2009 Honda CRV struggles to start on very cold days. I need to hold the key and turn it longer than I would on most days. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it normal.
View 7 Replies2009 f150 5.4l. 36 gal. After fueling it takes 4 or 5 cranks to start engine. Doesn't matter if its partial or complete fill up. after start has a little black smoke and and rough idle for a few seconds. Then runs fine with plenty of power.
View 3 RepliesThe wife's accent started hesitating when turning over to start. Like turn the key, engine will turn 1/4 turn, then nothing for a second or 2 ( without releasing the key) and then crank and start fine.
Checked connections at the battery, cleaned 'em. No CEL on.
I had a ignition cylinder freeze last winter, when my wife dropped her key in the snow and put it in with water on it. Had to heat the cylinder with a small lighter-style blowtorch and put low temp graphite in there.
Did I maybe melt something in there?? Something else??
So I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Accent 4-door sedan.
I was told during an oil change in the spring that I would need a new battery soonish. I haven't bought one yet.
Last week I tried to start my car and it made a machine gun noise and wouldn't start. A friend jumped it and it started fine. I took it to Canadian Tire and a mechanic tested the battery and said it was over charged, 508 I think, should be 500.
Then today it won't start and is making the machine gun noise again. Now the horn and lights are dimming too when I lock it.
What is going on? I checked the posts; they are clean and tight.
On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
I've had a couple issues where the car struggles to start in the morning after a cold night. 2.0 ultimate, btw. It isn't a cranking issue, it just struggles to turn over. Both times its done it, it seemed like it took 2-3 seconds longer to start than it should of. Was right on the edge of turning over but wouldn't. My non professional opinion was that it seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas to turn over.
What could be the issue. I will not have time to take it in to be looked at as I'm starting a new job next week and don't get any time off. Unless it fails to start completely, I'll deal for now.
My '05 Sante Fe 2.7 doesn't want to start after fueling up. I have to hold the accelerator pedal down, like we used to on the old rods when we flooded the engine, to get it to start. I replaced the gas cap thinking that was the issue, but didn't fix it. I get no check engine light and with 340k miles, it sent out several codes a while back at the dealer. Could it be the fuel filter or pump?
View 2 RepliesGS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
Link " [URL] .....
Well my car is listed above it has 99 k on it now.. For the last few months the check engine light had been coming on and off.. It usually happened after I put gas so I figured it was the gas cap... Till yesterday I had it scanned at auto zone and gave me the code listed above... Don't know how to go about it.. I've searched some and found that it could be a cam sensor of some sort or a follower ( spelling) ... Is it a easy fix .. Like I said light goes off and on.. Doesn't stay on always.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
My 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
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