Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Squeaking Clutch When Depressed
Jan 26, 2014
2009 Accent 5 speed 66K miles. This is something which I recently noticed with the onset of winter. When I depress the clutch pedal, I have a very audible squeak. Think old door hinge squeak. So metal is rubbing against metal somewhere inside the bellhousing without enough lubrication.....not good. I pulled off the dust boot on the side of the bellhousing and tried my best to push moly grease around the clutch fork stud, hoping that was the origin. The noise went away for roughly a half a day but is back in full force....funny how cars do that.
Space seems EXTREMELY limited on lubricating the proper area. Or....is this a warning mechanism built into the clutch pressure plate assembly to warn of replacement soon? While I am asking these questions, what is a good time to look into replacing the clutch? The parts for the car seem relatively cheap, if I replace the clutch assembly, I may consider replacing the flywheel and clutch hydraulics as well as a whole system replace/refresh.
That aside, is there anyway to eliminate the squeaking without having to crack open the bell housing?
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Earlier this summer I bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 130k miles on it. Recently I have noticed a squeaking/squealing sound coming from underneath the hood. I first noticed it at traffic lights, but I have determined that it occurs whenever the clutch pedal is depressed, and continues until the clutch is released.
My first question is - is this serious? (Is it dangerous, or will it compound significantly if I do nothing?) The clutch still seems to work fine, and I can stop the noise at traffic lights etc... by putting the car into neutral and letting off the clutch.
My second question is, how did I cause this? Coasting with the clutch fully depressed, or too much downshifting?
Background: Recently, I bought a Scan Gauge to provide real-time fuel economy feedback, and began to experiment with different driving styles. I found that I could really boost my fuel economy by coasting down longer hills on the highway (when there were no other cars around). To do this I was pressing the clutch all the way to the floor, figuring it was the same as putting the car into neutral. When my speed began to decline after the hill I'd ease back into 5th. One hill in particular comes into town where there is a light. If the light turned red I would stop coasting and do some quick downshifting as well as breaking. I was pretty aggressive with the downshifting on a few occasions.
Did either the downshifting or the coasting likely contribute to my problem? If coasting was an issue, would coasting in neutral cause a similar problem?
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I have a 09 Sonata which when shifting once, the clutch depressed but did not come back up. While waiting for Hyundai service to come I tried to move the car down the hill to a shady spot on curb for my son and the clutch started working normally and has for 6 months...
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I have a 1999 Saturn Coupe with about 47,000 miles on it. Today, my clutch started squeaking every time I depressed it. Is this forewarning of something bad, or should I ignore it?
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I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
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I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
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My brake pedal is making a creaking noise when depressed and can also be heard when letting off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the brakes themselves (front/back are like new) but the pedal area or somewhere behind it. This noise doesn't start until I've driven the car for a little while. The brakes work fine for the most part but sometimes feel a bit spongy if making a sudden or hard stop. The fluid levels are fine.
I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?
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I've got an unknown issue with my 07 Accent (1.6L):
There is a low tone noise coming from near the upper area of the engine. It sounds like air or fluid traveling through a hose. The tone of the noise has recently become progressively louder, so that it is noticeable over normal road noise when driving. The noise does not fluctuate in tone or intensity with changes in RPM. However, the tone changes to a higher pitched frequency, almost like a hiss, when the clutch is fully engaged and held to the floor, both when in gear and when not in gear.
What the cause may be? And potentially required maintenance?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with about 90,000 miles. I bought it with 30,000 from a dealership that had been using it as their "loaner" car. Don't know if the brakes were new when I got it, but let's assume they were.
The brakes have been squeaking since Day 1, especially when first driving. In the first few years of ownership I took the car to several different mechanics, convinced my brakes needed replacing. Was told that no, I had tons of life left on them and the rotors were in good shape. Each time they'd clean the dust off them and I'd be squeak-free for a day or two. After a few years of ownership, when it rained and I'd start driving my brakes would be SO loud and an almost-grinding noise could be heard. Not only that, but sometimes after a rainy night when I first braked, the car would almost lurch when making a stop. I honestly thought I had been lightly rear-ended the first few times it happened. Asked multiple mechanics to check the brakes and was told everything looked fine.
Now, I've put nearly 60,000 miles on this car. I still haven't replaced the brakes because each time I bring it somewhere to do so I get told I don't need it. I can't believe that brakes with 60,000 miles on them have any life left, but multiple mechanics say otherwise. The most recent mechanic attributed the lurching to moisture in the ABS. Seriously, what could be going on here?
I'm about to tell my mechanic to replace both my brakes/rotors next week no matter what, but it would be nice to know possible causes to my issue. I drive my toddler around daily and I just don't trust my brakes. One brake failure will be one too many. On a side note, this, coupled with low MPH, no power, and a transmission I feel is slowly on a death spiral.
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This seems like a trivial issue, but it's driving me crazy. A day after driving my new Accent SE off the lot, I put the seats down to move the family Christmas tree back into storage.
When I returned the seats to their upright position, an annoying squeak replaced the silence of the car. Every tiny bump triggers the squeak.
When I put the rear passenger side seat flat, the squeak stops, so I know it's somewhere in that area.
What kind of lubricant do you recommend for hinges and latches? White lithium grease? Should it be the paste variety or spray?
Any similar squeak in their 3-door Accent? I searched HMA Service, but no relevant topics came up.
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I've had my Accent for a year and a half and now it has about 23k miles on it. I noticed that whenever I would apply the brakes, and the lift my foot off the pedal, I would hear a squeak . . . kind of like a squeaky door. It would happen every time I would lift off the brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the pedal itself, then I rolled down the window and realized it was coming from my rear drums.
So I took the rear drums off which was a PITA to get them off, and used some brake cleaner and white lithium grease on the backing plates of the shoes and on the springs, and the squeak is gone!
I suspect this is probably an issue with drums since it's a relatively closed system and brake dust tends to accumulate in there. Any good technique to remove the rear drums, other than using a hammer to tap it loose?
Here's a pic of the rear brakes with the drum off.
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I read all of the threads regarding clutch vibrations and other problems but I have 1,500 miles on my R and since day 1 I have been feeling a very slight ticking on my foot when the clutch is depressed. It gets more pronounced when I rev the engine a bit but nothing you can hear. Is this a normal feeling or should I not feel this at all.
I'm getting the APR tune next week and will do HPFP/intake soon but I need to be convinced that the Carbonio Intake is actually an upgrade from the stock intake with just a K&N filter, it doesn't look much different, the intake area looks the same as stock. I don't want to have to modify the engine cover or else I'd get the VWR intake. Any experience with the K&N vs stock vs Carbino?
Not sure if it was just the hot/humid weather yesterday but the car felt a little boggy when starting in 1st gear like it was running too rich or something. Any history of this?
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This is regarding my 96 BMW 328i. It has approximately 177,000 miles on it. Over the past year, I've replaced the cooling system, fuel pump, alternator and trans fluid for kicks. So, I'm understandably frustrated with it. Anyway, to my story:
On my way into work, whenever I pressed in on the clutch, it would make a loud clunk/pop and freak me out. I turned around after 1/4 of the way and swapped cars.
My mechanical skills are maybe 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. I'm not afraid of changing oil, brake pads, transmission fluid, changing an alternator, etc. But I want to have someone to blame for anything that involves anything within the engine block/head/transmission continuum.
I noticed that a heat shield was loose between the driveshaft and the exhaust. I rapped it with a hammer, and the heat shield didn't make a noise anything like I'm hearing. So, it doesn't sound like that's the real culprit here.
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2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
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Turning my steering wheel left or right, especially when parked, there's a very noticeable creaking. This happens as well when I am going over bumps in a parking lot or somewhere at a low speed. The car itself turns fine, not sticking or power steering loss. So I am not quite sure whats going on here.. At 71k miles 2010.
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I've been driving manual transmission vehicles - from my '72 Pinto to big trucks - for 40 years. This happened recently in a VW Golf I had rented: While driving down a mountain in a tunnel in Norway, with the clutch depressed, there was a loud POP noise.The clutch became engaged, and the clutch pedal did nothing. I'll spare you the details of the harrowing aftermath, the language barrier issues in the sticks of Norway and such. In the end, the rental company is charging us a couple thousand bucks for breaking their car. I maintain it was not Driver Error. My local VM service manager indicated that the Slave Cylinder on the Golf has been a problem for years, and is probably what went bad, but - as a rep of VW - is not willing (allowed) to put that in writing. The garage that fixed the Golf indicated it was Driver Error. I'm guessing everything tranny-wise got beat up when the Slave gave out, making it look like I'm a bonafide Clutch Masher.
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I have a chirping/ squeaking sound in the engine extremely noticeable on idle. It's not the actual belt because it continues the noise much after the car is heated up. Have no clue what it is, I have 145000 miles. Also when running the engine hard notice a hissing sound sort of like turbo at high rpms especially with ac on high.
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As the title states my clutch is almost gone , been teaching too many people how to drive 5speed and the other day when my girl was driving she burned it real hard and now I can totally notice its engaging very late..
My question is : We just put a stage 1 every clutch in the rx7 and it was amazing but they only make a OEM replacement.
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So, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX and recently it started making a squealing noise while the clutch is depressed at low speeds. I've researched that it's likely the pilot bearing or bushing? My questions are: should I have the entire clutch replaced? How much should it cost? And will I cause more problems if I wait too long to do anything? How long can I wait?
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Ntices a strange idling noise? At first i thought it was just something like the radiator fan but it's tied to the clutch pedal..when the clutch is depressed the noise gets more isolated and a little louder. Everyone else in my car doesn't notice it but to me it sounds like something is out of balance... car only has 6500 miles on it and has never been driven hard... 2010 Golf 2.5 5spd .....
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