Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - No High Beam Indicator Light
Jul 23, 2014
I bought a 2009 Accent last week after my 1987 Camry wagon bit the dust. It has 47000 km and seems to have been very well maintained. The only problem I have noticed is that the high beam indicator light does not come on, although the hi beams do work. I downloaded an owner's manual but am not sure which fuse the indicator light is on; in any case, everything else seems to be working so I expect the bulb is burned out. My problem : I don't know its location on the instrument panel since it has never worked, and I don't know if it is possible to replace it without special tools.
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I installed a set of bi-Xenon HIDS identical to these.
in my wife's 2008 Accent. I unplugged the DRL module as shown in a thread I found here, but now there's no high beam indicator on the dash. Is there a wire on the plug that I can put a jumper on or something to make this work again?
And before all the nay-sayers growl at me, instead of assisting with this problem, I aimed the lights really low so there's minimal glare to oncoming traffic. We drove about 125 km last night with them and never got high-beamed once.
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08 accent passenger headlight was noticed to not be operating while in low beam. Switched to high beam- it works, but still no low beam.
First instinct was replace the bulb. Low beam works but now.. high beam doesn't?? Bulbs are fine, brand new out of the box and driver's side works like a charm. Bright as heck... passenger's side isn't quite as bright If that's any relation to the problem.
Checked the fuses, they're all good. Made sure bulb was placed in secure. Filament didn't get bounced around either. Was poking around online and seems it could be the relay. Manual doesn't seem to list a relay for the headlights or am I not reading it right?
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I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS and recently noticed that my low beam only works in the high beam setting and the high beam doesn't work.
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I installed a headlight kit from VW tuning a while back d2s with 6k bulbs I believe.
The headlights work but my high beam indicator is stuck on. I know this is a common problem but for the life of me I can't figure out how to fix it. If I switch back and forth with the stick on the column it does nothing. Just stays on high beams. I've just kind of dealt with it for a while.
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I have a 2000 Celica GT. Today I discovered that the blue high beam indicator is not showing in the dashboard. The high beam, low beam, and daytime running lights all are working.
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My high beam indicator in my dash is not working, I pulled the bulb and checked it and it is fine, so I did a voltage test and I am only getting 1.5 volts at the light terminals, I should be getting 12 volts. Is there a wiring diagram someone has so i can see if it is the dash display itself or that I could trace back to the switch to see if it is something in the headlight switch? or What it could possibly be. other than that, everything else works.
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The high beam indicator on the instrument panel stopped working. It does illuminate but is extremely dim. I changed the bulb, its one of those tiny little bulbs but that didn't work. I cleaned the connection areas where the bulb holder clicks into the back of the panel with scotchbrite, no luck.
I checked for voltage, this is where it gets interesting. I measured 6 volts. The other side is presumably ground, but my meter went a little crazy when I checked for ground, like it sensed voltage, but there is no voltage. This could be a bad ground, but where is the ground located? Buried somewhere under all those plastic panels, I suppose. And why only 6 volts? Is there some electronic control somewhere? The Chilton manual wire diagram just shows a hyper simple circuit from the high beam lights, through the indicator lamp, then to ground.
I DID replace the check engine light bulb and that works now (sarcastic hurray!). I have never seen it come on, the previous owner must have let it burn out, but the truck is in pretty decent shape for its year.
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I have a 2006 manual Hyundai accent with 82,000 kms. In the last couple of days the mil has illuminated so i took it to a mechanic who put it on the computer which he says it could be sucking air or bad fuel or many other things. He did cancel the light which stayed out for about 70 kms and its back on its not flashing just illuminated. Can this do any damage to the motor if still driving.
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My 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
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2008 Hyundai Accent 3 door the automatic transmission indicator light on the center console is not working anymore.
There is no mention of it in the Owners Manual. Every other bulb is referenced. Should I junk it or replace the bulb?
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I have a 2009 GS 350 and I attempted to start it today but when I tried to start it up it wouldn't fire up as all the ignition lights kept coming on and I pressed the button repeatedly but couldn't start. After a few attempts I noticed the brake was still down from pressing it while I push the start button but the car still won't start. After a while I noticed none of the lights won't come on so I assume its the battery but then I notice the warning light that came on and in the owners manual they call it the Malfunction indicator Light. It states a malfunction in either the emission control, engine control, throttle control or automatic control systems. It says call the dealer if this occurs which I will do tomorrow.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra SE, and up until very recently I've had no issues with it, and am very happy with this car. About 2 weeks ago the malfunction indicator light came on. I checked the manual and it said to contact the dealer ASAP to have it checked out, but the car will still run. I've been terribly busy, and this is the first chance I've had to bring it in, so that's the plan for tomorrow. What this could mean, and will any necessary repairs be covered until the 100,000 mile warranty? If there is a repair needed that isn't covered, I definitely don't want to take it to the dealer!
Also, a few days after this light appeared, my gas mileage has been horrible, apparently. I say apparently because the digital mileage range now tops out at 255 when my tank is full; it used to be 336. It costs the same to fill it, and takes the same amount of gas, about 12 gallons. The gauge goes up to above the Full line, but I seem to go through gas so much quicker. Today for example, a trip that normally would cost me maybe $10 in gas, at the most, cost me almost $20. I haven't noticed any leaks, so perhaps this is related to the indicator light?
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I have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
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Having issues with moisture, or water, in the high brake light, in the spoiler? It appears to be an LED type light. It is still working but, I'm afraid it may short out eventually. It also appears to be fragile! Its an '08 Accent.
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I have an 07 Passat Wagon. The headlight malfunction indicator light came on for my passenger side low beam. I replaced the bulb, which was visibly burn out (broken filament), but with a new bulb in, the light still is not working and the malfunction indicator is still on. What is the cause of this? I have the regular headlamps, not the xenon lights.
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my high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
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I have a '12, F150. Is there a fix to keep the fog lights on while on high beam?
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For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
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I have a 2013 F150 FX4. When the temperature is below 45 and the truck is cold the right high beam wont turn off if used, until the truck engine is warmed up.
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