Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 Intermittently Misfiring And Burning A Lot Of Oil On Start Up
Aug 27, 2016
So I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
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Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
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After getting to about 1/4 tank, I fuel up and fill the tank but when I try to start the car, it cranks for a while and then finally starts. It will idle really low so I have to rev it until the engine starts getting gas at a steady pace.
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The wife's accent started hesitating when turning over to start. Like turn the key, engine will turn 1/4 turn, then nothing for a second or 2 ( without releasing the key) and then crank and start fine.
Checked connections at the battery, cleaned 'em. No CEL on.
I had a ignition cylinder freeze last winter, when my wife dropped her key in the snow and put it in with water on it. Had to heat the cylinder with a small lighter-style blowtorch and put low temp graphite in there.
Did I maybe melt something in there?? Something else??
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
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I have a 2009 Accent 4-door sedan.
I was told during an oil change in the spring that I would need a new battery soonish. I haven't bought one yet.
Last week I tried to start my car and it made a machine gun noise and wouldn't start. A friend jumped it and it started fine. I took it to Canadian Tire and a mechanic tested the battery and said it was over charged, 508 I think, should be 500.
Then today it won't start and is making the machine gun noise again. Now the horn and lights are dimming too when I lock it.
What is going on? I checked the posts; they are clean and tight.
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I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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My girlfriends 2007 accent as thrown codes p0300 and p0302.
After reading everything I could find, I had coil pack on my list of possible problem items.
The car sat in the driveway yesterday and when she went to start it today, she couldn't get it to.
I got it to start when I got home by giving it some gas while turning the key, but I don't want to drive it anywhere.
The hard start is leading me to believe it's the coil pack.
I was going to start with changing the pcv, spark plugs, and run fuel injector cleaner through it because those are the cheap possibilities...but now may add in a new coil pack.
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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Recently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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My 2010 Accent has been stalling intermittently, always when I am idling. I'll be at a stop light, and it will stall, and then it usually starts right up again. It is almost always the same stop light on my way to work, like clockwork, and likewise on my way home from work. Also, sometimes right after this stalling event, the motor will be a little rough on the highway, sputtering like it's not getting gas very well, but then it evens out after a while.
Yesterday for the first time it died and wouldn't start again. I suspected my fuel pump had gone out. I had it towed to a repair shop, but it started just fine for them and they can't re-create the problem. It doesn't give any computer codes at all.
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My 2008 Accent will intermittently crank crank and will not turn over. You can hear it trying to start but it seems like its not getting fuel. Then I will stop turning the key, try again and it will start. It may do this two or three times before starting. I have no codes.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with about 222,000 mikes on it. It runs extremely smoothly, but I've had problem after problem with startup. My clutch sensor was loose for a while, replaced my starter, replaced the ignition coil, everything that could stop the thing from starting up has happened. Finally for the last couple weeks, the car has had these spells where it will crank forever and not start, like it did when I replaced the coil (I did that again just in case, not the problem). These spells last varying mounts of time.
A few times it's started up in minutes, and two times now it's been out for at least a day. I've checked everything and it seems to not be getting spark when it's not starting. I'd really like any insight to this. I'm considering changing my crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, but I can't even find those on my engine. What could be causing this? I really need a car that will start up and is reliable. It should be noted that the car USUALLY starts fine. This only happens about once every 5 or 6 days.
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Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an issue where my radio turns off and on intermittently. To clarify, it will not turn itself on if the button was off. However, if I'm listening to the radio it can turn itself off and back on again multiple times. This happens on AM/FM/AM and Auxiliary. I'm assuming it happens with CD, but haven't listened to that lately.
Sometimes it happens in rapid succession, other times it's off for five minutes or more and comes back on. Other times it stays off. Sometimes it behaves as it should. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Is this merely a wonky fuse or something more sinister?
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