Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Idles Too High Around 1000 To 1400 RPM
Jan 17, 2012
My 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
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I own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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I bought a 2009 Accent last week after my 1987 Camry wagon bit the dust. It has 47000 km and seems to have been very well maintained. The only problem I have noticed is that the high beam indicator light does not come on, although the hi beams do work. I downloaded an owner's manual but am not sure which fuse the indicator light is on; in any case, everything else seems to be working so I expect the bulb is burned out. My problem : I don't know its location on the instrument panel since it has never worked, and I don't know if it is possible to replace it without special tools.
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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I just noticed that when I turn on the rear defrost the car idles in neutral at 1000 rpm as soon as I turn it on then when I turn out off it goes back to normal. Why its doing this so I need to know what is going on....
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
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Fourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
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I have a buddy with a 2006 Sonata, 3.3. It has about 138,000 miles on it.
When it gets hot, it will LEAP into gear. As if when you put it in gear, the throttle is pushed open 10% or something. Kinda like you would do with an old Ford or Chevy (like the 70's) that stalls when you put in gear. When it gets really hot, like after driving it for 30 or 40 miles, when you come to a stop, you lose the vacuum boost on the brakes, and the engine just goes on the pre-detonating rampage! It literally sounds like Dodge with Cummins diesel in it! It's fighting you while you struggle to keep it from LAUNCHING off the line. The strange thing is, as it is put back into N or P, it returns to normal instantaneously as if nothing was wrong in the first place.
My bud took it to the dealer, here is what they think it could be:
1. Clogged cats (nope, no back pressure, already checked)
2. Wrong spark plugs (it does not have the OEM direct replacement, it has some kind of dual electrode deal in it, but the part number crosses as an acceptable replacement)
3. The dealer did say that the ecm is up to date and that the throttle body is calibrated. That's what I thought it was in the first place.
In my professional opinion, I think it might be a ragged out timing belt. But I'm a domestic mechanic, not so strong with the imports (not trolling here, seriously, I work with fleets 99% of the time).
And there are no codes either.
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I have a 07 Sonata 2l crtd, Its been running fine for about 6 years, But for the last couple of months, when setting off gently, as it reaches approx 1400rpm, I get a blip/hiccup/flat spot/miss. It ONLY happens at 1400rpm, and irrespective of what speed I am doing.
For example, as above, (setting off) but also, if cruising gently at approx 50mph ( which equals approx 1400rpm) then it does it again. It only does it at 1400rpm.
Also (maybe related) the orange engine warning light has now come on ( twice in past 2 weeks ) it stays on for a day or so,,,then goes out. its not flashing.
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My 2006 Tundra with 45000 miles on it has an engine vibration in neutral between 1400 and 1750 RPMs. It does not feel or sound like a miss fire rather a definite vibration. I have heard this is common with Toyota 4.7 litre engines. What might be some things that could cause it? It has always done it and after 8 years hasn't resulted in any engine failures.....yet.
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2012 SEL... Experiencing High Idle (1000 rpms) when the AC is ON. When I power the AC system OFF... the idle comes down to 700-800rpms. Then I power the AC back ON and it stays for the rest of my trip. Restart the car, and it's back to 1000 rpms with the AC on.
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What RPMs do you usually have on the highway with your accent? I'm driving a 2009 Accent GS and I'm running at ~2.8-3.2k around the 60MPH mark. Is that high? What do you all run at 60mph?
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Having issues with moisture, or water, in the high brake light, in the spoiler? It appears to be an LED type light. It is still working but, I'm afraid it may short out eventually. It also appears to be fragile! Its an '08 Accent.
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I installed a set of bi-Xenon HIDS identical to these.
in my wife's 2008 Accent. I unplugged the DRL module as shown in a thread I found here, but now there's no high beam indicator on the dash. Is there a wire on the plug that I can put a jumper on or something to make this work again?
And before all the nay-sayers growl at me, instead of assisting with this problem, I aimed the lights really low so there's minimal glare to oncoming traffic. We drove about 125 km last night with them and never got high-beamed once.
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I have a 2006 accent 1.6l dohc. While doing highway speeds the rpms are very high considering the small engine. There for it give me a result of bad fuel mileage with 480km per 40l tank. I'm curious is there is any 6speed transmission I can swap out my 5 speed with in order to give me that extra gear to bring the rpms down.
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08 accent passenger headlight was noticed to not be operating while in low beam. Switched to high beam- it works, but still no low beam.
First instinct was replace the bulb. Low beam works but now.. high beam doesn't?? Bulbs are fine, brand new out of the box and driver's side works like a charm. Bright as heck... passenger's side isn't quite as bright If that's any relation to the problem.
Checked the fuses, they're all good. Made sure bulb was placed in secure. Filament didn't get bounced around either. Was poking around online and seems it could be the relay. Manual doesn't seem to list a relay for the headlights or am I not reading it right?
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I replace all my spark plugs but my car still has no power and its eating gas like crazy.
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I have a 2006 accent gls manual and when I am on the highway in 5th gear my rpms are high. if I am cruising at 110km my rpms will be almost at 3500..
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