I bought a 2009 Hyundai Accent used at 110.000Km. I've only been driving it for 3 weeks and today I went to start the car and it turned over and died right away. It did this a couple of times then it finally started fine and I was able to drive it. What it could be?
View 4 RepliesSo I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
View 4 RepliesGot a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesImmediately after I fill my 2006 Hyundai Accent with gas, the engine shudders, then dies. The only way to keep it running is to press down the accelerator and rev the engine up for a few minutes, then slowly back off. My mechanic said I need an new fuel pump, so he replaced it, but it didn't solve anything. I still have the same problem every time I fill up. What's causing this and did I just pay for an unnecessary fuel pump?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
View 4 RepliesA few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
View 14 Replies2009 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Our car got flooded last week. Water only got inside to the floor mats and we vacuumed it out. Now the car wont start. It starts and then dies right away. Only when I remove the key from ignition and restart it comes on and goes off again. I was thinking about changing out the ignition module with key. Checked all fuses and they are OK.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
We've owned the 2009 LX570 (approx 101k miles) for about a month now. The vehicle has run fine, no issues. This morning it started very briefly (.25sec) then quit. Same thing over and over. I charged the battery, had it load tested and it all checks out fine. I cleared codes and rechecked it. No standard OBDII codes show, only the enhanced codes. Dash shows a CEL. We drove the vehicle yesterday a few times and all was fine...normal acceleration, started, etc. Then, this morning, it went down. I also pulled the MAF, cleaned it, reinstalled. Pulled the intake tube, cleaned the throttle body butterfly and corresponding area around the butterfly. It was slightly dirty but looked normal.
Here's what I have for codes:
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Camshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B
P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
I am uploading a short video to Photobucket, which perhaps illustrates what's happening better than I can describe. I will post it up once it clears on Photobucket. Cranking sounds normal and I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump activating as well. I know that low voltage on a CANBUS system can make weird things happen. However, since my battery checks out, I'm not sure on this one.
Tonight I got into my sonata and started it and went to put it in reverse and it just died. I put it back in park and went to start it and it wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. I found someone to jump me and when I had enough juice, I got it started again and immediately died and at the same time it died I heard a pop, I thought my belt had broke or something but it was fine. It won't crank at all now, just light dim and a click. The time before this incident it sounded really rough when I started it but it went away. The car has been idling rough right after start up then is fine and this has only been recently, just today it has sounded really rough during quick acceleration (I don't know if this has anything to do with it). I think it is the starter but I am not sure. The fuel pump was replaced several months ago so I am pretty confident it is not the fuel pump.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with about 90,000 miles. I bought it with 30,000 from a dealership that had been using it as their "loaner" car. Don't know if the brakes were new when I got it, but let's assume they were.
The brakes have been squeaking since Day 1, especially when first driving. In the first few years of ownership I took the car to several different mechanics, convinced my brakes needed replacing. Was told that no, I had tons of life left on them and the rotors were in good shape. Each time they'd clean the dust off them and I'd be squeak-free for a day or two. After a few years of ownership, when it rained and I'd start driving my brakes would be SO loud and an almost-grinding noise could be heard. Not only that, but sometimes after a rainy night when I first braked, the car would almost lurch when making a stop. I honestly thought I had been lightly rear-ended the first few times it happened. Asked multiple mechanics to check the brakes and was told everything looked fine.
Now, I've put nearly 60,000 miles on this car. I still haven't replaced the brakes because each time I bring it somewhere to do so I get told I don't need it. I can't believe that brakes with 60,000 miles on them have any life left, but multiple mechanics say otherwise. The most recent mechanic attributed the lurching to moisture in the ABS. Seriously, what could be going on here?
I'm about to tell my mechanic to replace both my brakes/rotors next week no matter what, but it would be nice to know possible causes to my issue. I drive my toddler around daily and I just don't trust my brakes. One brake failure will be one too many. On a side note, this, coupled with low MPH, no power, and a transmission I feel is slowly on a death spiral.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. In the past 2 weeks, immediately after pumping gas into my car, when I start my car, its difficult to start my car and keep it running. For at least 3-4 minutes after putting gas into my tank, I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep my car running. Sometimes, it will shut off. Then, after a few minutes, all is good and I can drive the car without an issue. What's going on?
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2009 Hyundai Accent, 28k miles on it, and was working fine until today. When I turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't turn at all. My battery seems to be fully charged. I checked my ignition fuses and everything seems fine. Is there anything else I could try? I'm still under warranty, but it's such a hassle dealing with those dealership types.
View 1 Replies2006 ... HV battery changed over 4 months ago and car ran fine until last week when the car just stopped and won't get ready. Before that incident, the vehicle was running fine all day, while he was returning from the days chores in the evening, it just stopped, dashboard all lit up. After a while, the car started again, and he was able to move it away to the side of the road...just about 2 meters and it stopped again.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse with the 3800 Series 3 V6. It has 140K miles. Lately on warmish starts (after shopping for example) the car will start then slowly die (not all the time but a good chunk of the time). It starts fine when truly warm, and usually when it's cold it's fine too. It runs great otherwise. It never stalls or dies otherwise.The car has new plugs and wires, a newish battery, a new air filter and I cleaned the MAF sensor. I've only had the car about 6 months, and noticed the problem in the last couple.I scanned for codes and there are none, also there is no check engine light. The car doesn't have an IAC valve or a fuel filter (I know those are common culprits)But it starts easier when cold (even -20) than when warmish. Here are two videos I took of me starting it. *note the coolant temperature gauge. It's partially warm.
[URL] ....
I have a 2009 Accent with 8800 miles on it. The battery warning kept coming on while I was driving, took it to Hyundai dealership and they said the alternator had an issue and they replaced it. The day I brought the car back from the dealership the warning popped up again, took it back to them and they kept my car for a week and finally told me there was an issue with ground.Its been a month and I finally thought it was resolved until 2 days back it popped up again. I don't know if it makes any sense but the warning showed when I turned on the heater and the rear defroster on. Once the warning light came on, now even if the rear defroster is not on my battery warning light comes on. It doesn't show up every time I start the car but frequently. Sometimes when the warning light is on the rear defroster does not work. What could it be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. My battery light and seatbelt light comes on when I'm driving at low speeds (below 20mph) and my A/C is on. FYI my A/C is an after-market unit. Do you think my A/C could have been connected incorrectly and is draining my battery?
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
View 4 RepliesI know brake squealing indicates worn brakes and time to check/replace. But I notice on my 2009 Hyundai Accent, the squeal only happens going downhill (maybe uphill too, but one usually doesn't brake much there), and on non-level surfaces at times. But for most day to day driving it's level enough to not hear any squeals.
My question is what might this indicate with regards to the brakes or other components? Is it a special type of wear or uneven wear of the brakes? Since even wear would have the brakes squealing all the time I'd assume.
I'm going to have it inspected, but wanted to get some thoughts here beforehand.