Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 - Standby Power Sometimes Cuts Out When Car Is Off
Nov 30, 2013
I took a look at a few topics regarding fuses, and pulled my fuses to see, but didn't see anything too weird.
In any case, every few days or so, I'll go to unlock my car and the keyless entry won't work. I'll open the door with my key, turn the ignition, and notice that my radio has completely reset and essentially the items power cycle, like power was lost when the car was off.
Like I mentioned, I have checked the fuses in the cabin area (but where to start for the fuses in the engine compartment).
The car is fine 99% of the time, but this really worries me, especially since I'm looking to sell the car.
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My 2007 Hyundai will randomly after being parked for 3+ hours will stall (engine shakes for two seconds then cuts off) when attempting to reverse. This only happens when the car is turned on then trying to reverse. It will NOT do this when driving and later putting the vehicle into reverse. Additionally when the weather is extremely cold or hot this becomes more frequent. If the car can be shifted into reverse without stalling within 5 seconds it will NOT stall. To solve the problem I have to either keep trying to turn on the car and shifting to reverse until it doesn't stall out (sometimes 3 tries or more) or putting the car into neutral and pushing. I have to stress this only happens after having the vehicle sit for more than several hours even a day and is random. One day no matter how many times I tried turning the car on and trying to reverse and repeating it would not stop stalling out. I had to wait till the parallel parked car in front of me moved so I could get out of my spot. What is wrong with my car? I have taken it to Porter Hyundai TWICE and they cannot determine the problem even after scanning for codes.
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I drive a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT and recently had a new heater core installed, but now when I try to drive it, it cuts off on me once I get out of the driveway. It starts back up fine, but then cuts again seconds after I try to drive. When I start the car it idles fine. I could have it idling for 10 minutes plus and have no issues, but once I shift it into gear and begin to back out of the drive way it shuts down again.
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Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
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I have unfortunately inherited a 2007 Toyota Camry LE at the passing of an uncle. I recently purchased an Innova 3140 b diagnostic scanner which pulled up several codes. One of which keeps popping back.
P0128 refers to (according to innova).
Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the codes came back after a few days. I cleared it once again and the code reappeared that same day. I have a thermostat on standby ready to install if the fix requires such.
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I messed up a couple weeks ago and left the car battery running while waiting for someone. I noticed after doing that, that whenever i had the car is standby mode the red triangle would come up and stay there. Today i got into my car and when i tried turning on the car it died and only had a check engine light come on. I read online that it was the battery so i got the car jump started.
We did this with one of those jump starter boxes (not another car) and now the car is running fine. I read that jump starting a prius could cause damage to it and checked the battery levels. When i pushed the power button once the 12v level was at 12.4. When i pressed it twice the level was at 12.1 and when the car is on the level is at 13.9. My 2004 prius is now at 161k miles. Am I fine using the car as it is? or should i change the 12v, or check if the HV is alright?
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On my 2004 Accent GL 1.3, the digital clock in the center facia panel seems to always reset itself. At first, I thought it was random, but now I notice that when it does cut out, I have just started to press the brake pedal. It doesn't cut out every time I brake, but it only cuts out when I brake. It comes back at its leisure, sometimes immediately after releasing the brake pedal, and other times much later, seemingly randomly.
The wire harness going into the digital clock has 4 contacts (2 of which have two wires each). I can find no mention of this wire harness in the Body Electrical manual on hmaservice.com, so I'm not sure where the wires come from. The wire harness itself looks fine.
I would imagine that the problem is caused by a short between the +12V (actually, I'm not sure how many volts) wire going to the digital clock and the braking circuit somewhere, but I don't know.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
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So I went to get my '08 Accent inspected, and we observed that the right side and the 3rd brake lights were out. Replaced the bulb on the right side and still out. Not even going to attempt the 3rd light until I can get more info, because the odds of a complete LED strip quitting all at once are, well, remote enough to be laughable.
I checked the RH tail lamp fuse - connection still good. The left side brake light still works, so I'm doubtful that this is the notorious brake light switch that was recalled - unless such an issue has indeed been reported with said switch...
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We recently purchased a 2008 Accent Hatchback. We've noticed that even though we turn the full lights on, the headlights are only as bright as the daytime running lights. We then tried the high beams by turning the knob, but nothing. The high beams only work when you hold the stick. We have replaced the bulbs.
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I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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My son phone me from his University saying that whole car was shaking when engaged in R or D. I thought it was a failed GB mounting but turn out to be the RH engine mount. I replaced it but got #3 cylinder misfiring and high idling (1500 rpm) from OBD2 reader.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils swap but still same DTCs. We can hear the misfiring from the exhaust noise. However engine power is normal. But the newly fitted engine mount may not last with the misfiring not resolved. I have cleaned the throttle body too.
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My 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
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Car died while driving home. Now it wont start. The tow truck driver that towed me home swears that the timing belt is out. Car makes spinning noise when I try to start it. I plugged in my code reader and got P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input. Not sure where to go from here. Do I replace the sensor or take it in to have the timing belt done? 109,000 miles.
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I'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
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I have an 08 accent gls hatch that stalled the other day and wont start. Replaced the crank and cam sensors as well as the map and purge valve. Now it sputters and stalls with the fuel pump jumped. Has spark ans well as fuel at rail. What am i missing- no engine codes...
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My 2008 Accent will intermittently crank crank and will not turn over. You can hear it trying to start but it seems like its not getting fuel. Then I will stop turning the key, try again and it will start. It may do this two or three times before starting. I have no codes.
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I have a kind of weird problem with my '08 Accent Hatch that just started up last week.
Sometimes when I leave the car (Keys out of ignition and open door) all the doors lock automatically. Same thing happens even if I leave the car running and step out for a minute. And once or twice, the doors locked while driving.
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This morning my son started the 2008 Accent and it ran really bad, he shut if off started it again and still ran really bad and check engine light started to flash. Shut it off and ran for the bus to school.
Went and picked up a OBD scanner and found a cylinder 1 misfire. Tried to start it and had a really hard time and when it did start ran like crap and smelled gas. Checked the codes again and now got Multiple cylinder misfires, cylinder 4 misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
Pulled the engine cover to pull the coils and plugs and I find a ton of mouse crap. No signs of any chewed wires or anything that I could see. Drove it to the local Hyundai dealer tonight because I am worried that it may not be the coil packs. Drove OK to the dealer. My brother is the service manager at the local Mazda dealer and he sees a lot of mouse damage. Said I should put a couple of old socks with moth balls in the engine compartment to deter the mice.
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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