Car died while driving home. Now it wont start. The tow truck driver that towed me home swears that the timing belt is out. Car makes spinning noise when I try to start it. I plugged in my code reader and got P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input. Not sure where to go from here. Do I replace the sensor or take it in to have the timing belt done? 109,000 miles.
View 7 RepliesWhenever I am driving 60 km/h or more a loud noise seems to come into play. The noise sounds like a really loose ball bearing spinning. Then sounds like a turbine slowing down when going 30 or under. The only issue is the noise does not go away until the truck shifts down into 1st gear. And when doing so the truck jerks enough for everyone in the vechile to feel it. This problem only seems to come when it's rainy or slushy outside and even then does not happen very often. I have had the truck to ford and another mech. Nobody can seem to pinpoint the problem. 2006 f150 5.4l ....
View 2 RepliesAccent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
View 24 RepliesMy 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
I'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
View 8 RepliesI have an 08 accent gls hatch that stalled the other day and wont start. Replaced the crank and cam sensors as well as the map and purge valve. Now it sputters and stalls with the fuel pump jumped. Has spark ans well as fuel at rail. What am i missing- no engine codes...
View 8 RepliesMy accent won't start anymore. When I turn the key, I hear a series of clicks, but the car won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, lights/radio/wipers all work fine. It's a 2008 manual car.
View 3 RepliesWhen idling and when first start to accelerate it feels like my car is hiccuping. I don't know what the issue is. I do know When i first bought The car about 8 months ago the oils Got wet when The dealer power washed he engine.
View 4 RepliesThe timing belt broke in my gf's '08 accent recently and I decided to have a crack at replacing the belt after getting a quote for $900 from the nearest mechanic (with no guarantee it would fix the problem).
When re-aligning the cam and crank to TDC, I wasn't sure if it mattered which revolution the crank was on (ie. 1st or 2nd revolution) when putting everything back together. I tested rotating the engine with the new belt on slowly to make sure there was no contact and everything seemed ok.
So basically now everything is back together, tried starting it up and it won't start and now i'm wondering if it would make a difference or not if the crank was rotated 1 additional revolution. Otherwise there is more significant damage.
I've got a strange noise coming from the front brakes. It's not the wear indicator, and it's not a worn out rotor.
When I apply the brakes firmly, they work great. No noise, good stopping power, the pedal is nice and firm. As soon as I let off the pedal, there's a little chirping noise, like a tiny bird in my wheels... I've looked at the pads and rotors, and there's no obvious sign of damage or wear.
My guess is it's the caliper pins or piston making the noise. I'm happy to take it apart and lube it, but what kind of lube is specified for this? Moly grease? Lithium grease? Some kind of oil? And do I apply it only to the caliper pins, or to the piston as well?
I looked on HMA service, but I can't seem to find anything to address this specific problem.
Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
I have a 2009 Accent 4-door sedan.
I was told during an oil change in the spring that I would need a new battery soonish. I haven't bought one yet.
Last week I tried to start my car and it made a machine gun noise and wouldn't start. A friend jumped it and it started fine. I took it to Canadian Tire and a mechanic tested the battery and said it was over charged, 508 I think, should be 500.
Then today it won't start and is making the machine gun noise again. Now the horn and lights are dimming too when I lock it.
What is going on? I checked the posts; they are clean and tight.
I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L and when I turn the wheels all the way too the right or all the way to the left the pulley stops spinning. Could this be that the pump is going bad or something else?
View 2 RepliesMy alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
View 6 Repliesi have a 2006 f-150 xlt, i was driving it today and it started making a 5x5 beeping noise shortly after i started it up. I read on a few forums that that beeping is a warning about the passenger airbag sensor or something. anyways it went away and kept driving for 5 minutes or so when suddenly the dash went out and all the gauges dropped but i was still able to drive fine. A minute later the engine just died and i managed to pull over to the side of the road. now nothing works when i turn the key, not even a light, its just a dead weight, the remote locking doesn't even work. the only sign of life is a LED from my phone charger that is plugged into the outlet. the battery is only 2 months old so its not that.
View 2 Replies2008 5.4L triton. When I'm in the snow or mud and engage the 4 wheel drive I hit the gas and I can hear what I think it is the hub spinning but it will not turn the wheel. Hoping it is not my transfer case...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 5.4 with the 3.55 LS rear end. I just changed the diff fluid to Lucas 75W140 synthetic and added 4 oz of Motorcraft friction modifier. The gears looked great when I had the cover off. But now my truck only seems to want to spin one tire. It was on a ice covered road so it shouldn't be that one tire was catching more traction than the other. Could a simple oil change cause the limited slip to stop working?
View 4 RepliesSo I went to get my '08 Accent inspected, and we observed that the right side and the 3rd brake lights were out. Replaced the bulb on the right side and still out. Not even going to attempt the 3rd light until I can get more info, because the odds of a complete LED strip quitting all at once are, well, remote enough to be laughable.
I checked the RH tail lamp fuse - connection still good. The left side brake light still works, so I'm doubtful that this is the notorious brake light switch that was recalled - unless such an issue has indeed been reported with said switch...
We recently purchased a 2008 Accent Hatchback. We've noticed that even though we turn the full lights on, the headlights are only as bright as the daytime running lights. We then tried the high beams by turning the knob, but nothing. The high beams only work when you hold the stick. We have replaced the bulbs.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
View 13 RepliesMy son phone me from his University saying that whole car was shaking when engaged in R or D. I thought it was a failed GB mounting but turn out to be the RH engine mount. I replaced it but got #3 cylinder misfiring and high idling (1500 rpm) from OBD2 reader.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils swap but still same DTCs. We can hear the misfiring from the exhaust noise. However engine power is normal. But the newly fitted engine mount may not last with the misfiring not resolved. I have cleaned the throttle body too.