Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 GS - Misfire On 3 Cylinders / Rough Idle And Poor Acceleration
Jun 9, 2014
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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I have a 2008 Accent SE and I'm having some issues... The car was driving fine the other day all the sudden check engine light came on started flashing then and just stayed on. This happen before and the car was under warranty so the dealership fixed it but now it ran out and it's happening again. Anyway the car is running very rough at idle like the car shakes and acts like it doesn't want to run. Also when driving it honestly feels like the car has no power or acceleration what so ever. I replaced the air filter with a brand new K&N filter, I also changed the spark plugs today. I put NGK's in and the problem is still the same. I had it hooked to a code reader and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 2. I thought the plugs would have fixed it but I guess not.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai accent. 2 cylinders misfire. I changed out the spark plugs after the misfiring began and the 2 cylinders that misfire don't follow any specific ignition coil, it's just 2 random ones.
Looking at the data with a reader points to fuel injector number 1 not working properly. The first few seconds the car is on the check engine light blinks and fuel injector 1 spray duration (fluctuates based on gas applied) changes just like all the others. However, when the check engine light goes solid (then the misfire code is thrown) fuel injector 1's spray duration is stuck (usually around 3.5 ms)
The cable going into the fuel injector powers those little troubleshooting lights like it should until you plug the cable into the fuel injector OR remove and replace the light a few times.
I don't know much about cars but someone told me to try cleaning out the Mass AirFlow sensor as they had the problem above and the MAF sensor was the cause. I can't find anything on where the MAF sensor is located though.
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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Symptoms:
- Check engine light: misfire on all cylinders, and "lean fuel trim at part throttle".
Started with changing leads and plugs without improvement. Then I found the tank ventilation seemed to be clogged, as there was a massive vacuum when opening the filler cap. Checked the canister and replaced a couple of corroded lines. Also used compressed air to blow through the canister and lines up to the Evap-purge valve. Seemed to be OK afterwards (no vacuum), but still misfires.
Changed the Mass Air flow sensor, and it seems the misfires got better, but instead I have some other issues:
- Hard to start when cold. Starts up fine for a second then sounds like it's getting to much fuel and dies. Possible to keep it running if pumping the pedal or holding it at higher revs.
- Rough idle when warm. (Same as before I changed the MAF and plugs/ leads.)
- Drives and runs ok when out on the road.
- Pulled the cable to the Idle Control Valve without any change in idle...?
- Got flashing engine light and "misfire cylinder 4" when giving full throttle on low revs and seond gear up a steep climb.
What could cause this?
- Temperature sensor?
- O2-sensor?
- Idle control valve?
- Coilpack?
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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I'm an Accent 2000 gs owner and since a few days i had this problem. It has a bad idle and looks like it will stall... need to give some gas to stay alive.
Bad acceleration too, it misses some gas. (puffing, rumbling, shaking a bit). After accel, it's ok until the next red light.
Now I can't even drive cause it's worse. (too difficult to accelerate). Is it a sensor?
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I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
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I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
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I hopped in my truck this morning, fired it up, and it idled nicely. I drove around the corner, and noticed that the truck was barely responding to the throttle. Then things got shaky. It was a very rough idle, almost like a misfire. But I managed to get the gas to respond and got the revs up to about 3K and it seemed to run smooth.
No CEL either. Currently, I have no place to really look at my truck as I don't have a garage, or driveway for that matter. I don't have a scanner that can read live data either. I'm limited in my tools currently as well.
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So recently my 2009 hyundai accent has been idling rough, and has been very sluggish when accelerating. Usually the rough idling is the worst when the car is first turned on and tends to tone down as the car keeps running. I had the codes red and I believe it was C0302 C0303 C0304, saying that cylinders 2-4 were misfiring.
I replaced the spark plugs which didn't fix the problem, although cylinder 4 did have a small amount of oil above the spark plug and a little bit more below the spark plug, I am not sure if that means anything useful or not. I don't have a way to check the coils directly but I swapped coil 2 with coil 1 and checked the codes again and it was still cylinders 2-4 misfiring, so I would imagine that means the coil isn't the problem. I then tried spraying WD-40 around the vacuum tubes, and if the intake manifold is on the back of the engine I tried spraying it around that gasket as well, but I didn't notice a change in the idle speed.
At this point I am not entirely sure how to proceed, from what I have read the issue causing a misfire would be either there isn't a spark, which seems unlikely at this point, or the mixture of fuel to air is wrong. That is the part I am unsure of how to diagnose/
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2004 Ford F150 5.4 Triton 3V Vin5.....
How this started, Drove through a lot of water as our City was in a flood on my way home and and the truck started running rough and got worse over time, I can now barely get to 40 mph as it starts to ping and sputter with no power.. the truck has been parked and not driven while in the shape it's in.
The truck keeps giving me error code P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected, P0174 System too lean (Bank 2) and at times another error P0300 saying multiple cylinder misfires detected.
After clearing the codes, I got new codes stating Misfire on Cylinder 2, 3, 4, 6. System too rich (Bank 1) System too lean (Bank 2)
Cleared the codes again and I'm back to Cylinder 3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2)
What I have done so far... All repairs with in a few days...
1. Changed all spark plugs.
2. Changed all Coil Packs.
3. Changed number 3 fuel Injector.
4. Changed the Oil and Filter. (no water in the oil)
5. Changed the MAP Sensor.
6. Changed Bank 2 O2 Sensor 1 and 2.
7. Loosen the Catalytic Converter on the drivers side to re-leave back pressure thinking the Cat was plugged, still loss of power. I also drilled a small hole in the exhaust at my lowest point to see if it had water in it and it does not.
Checked for vacuum leaks using starting fluid around the intake manifold, no change in idle.. I also checked to make sure the vacuum line was still connected on the back of the intake manifold, I have found nothing leaking.
I also had cleaned the throttle body and changed the throttle position sensor.
Repairs within the last 6 months or less...
8. Replace passenger side cat.
9. Replaced both Bank 1 OS Sensors
9. Replaced Timing chains, Gears, Guides, Guide Tensioners, Oil Pump and pickup tube, Water Pump.
Cam Phasers are fine.
And number 3 coil is getting spark I changed the Ignition Coil again thinking maybe another bad pack.
Still #3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2).
I am at a loss and not sure what to try, except for a compression test on cylinder 3 but I honestly don't think it's compression or a burnt valve.
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My 2004/ 4.6L F-150 had misfire issues and rough idle. Since changing the plugs and a COP the idle is better. It seems to stutter a bit at low RPMs around town, but it fine at higher RPMs. What to check next. Also since fixing the misfire and clearing the codes from the computer it won't enable all the emissions monitors. I've drive over 100 miles and the EVAP monitor still isn't on. The truck has about 213K miles on it.
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