I have a kind of weird problem with my '08 Accent Hatch that just started up last week.
Sometimes when I leave the car (Keys out of ignition and open door) all the doors lock automatically. Same thing happens even if I leave the car running and step out for a minute. And once or twice, the doors locked while driving.
Okay, i have an issue with both rear doors randomly not locking or unlocking, i have to manually push down on the rear door lock buttons to lock them, then when i try to unlock them they get stuck, then when i pull the inside door handles they pop up again only sometimes.
1. I use keyfob to lock or unlock wont work
2. I manually put key into the drivers door, still not working
3. I use the inside drivers door switch and still doesn't work
Other problem is when I arm the alarm with keyfob, battery goes flat, i think it's sensing that the door is open why its draining the battery. Both front doors work excellent.
I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
My 2008 is 4 years old now but only has 27k miles. (I'm retired.) However I am really disgusted that it has had so many serious problems. Most recently, the trunk will not open all the way. I noticed this before it went out of warranty but I assumed it just needed some WD-40. In fact I remember another poster on this forum actually making fun of another owner who complained about the trunk not opening all the way. Well, now the dealer tells me I need a whole new trunk support system for $388! I'll just live with it as long as I can stand it.
Additionally, the doors often don't lock when I push the thumb lock on the outside of the door. I've tried both doors and the trunk. Of course the dealer couldn't find anything wrong. I know I could try the key fob but I keep it zipped up inside a pocket inside my pocketbook and never fool with it - a feature I do love about the Prius. Having problem with the trunk not opening all the way?
Car is a 2007 elantra, auto trans. this car is not on hand and is not my car - i will be able to do some testing when i get the chance at some point.
this is an intermittent problem which makes diagnosis difficult. when the car is turned off, sometimes the doors will not lock and the door chime keeps going - if the doors are open or not.
Suspected that a pin switch in the ignition might be sticking (had this with my old accent) so some graphite lubricant was used to try and loosen it up. idea is that it might think the key is still in the ignition. didn't seem to do much.
What I recently found out was that it seems the car needs to be started again and then shut down to reset this fault. what i'm suspecting now after going over the wiring schematics is that the body control module (BCM) may be faulty - such as a relay sticking inside it. appears that the door chime is integrated into this part making testing even more fun.
The difficult part of this is that not only is this car on on hand to do some testing, but i have almost no information on the logic input/output of the BCM...so even bench testing might not be possible.
As I am driving my car, the locks will randomly engage and lock all of the doors. There is no way I can repeat the issue manually. Some days it won't do it at all, other days, for instance this morning, it locked them over and over again about 4 times. This morning it locked, so I unlocked them, then it locked again and again every time I unlocked them, until I simply left them locked. There isn't a specific speed that it does it at, and it isn't related to the dealer setting up the computer to lock once I hit a certain speed because it does it at all speeds regardless, and it also does it at complete random times.
View 8 RepliesI've recently purchased an off-lease 2007 Sonata and have the following question about the keyless entry. When I unlock the doors I notice that there is a short flashing of parking lights, however when locking the doors with the remote there is no indication.
I believe the manual says there ought be a short chirping which I am not hearing. The remote is just for keyless entry (no alarm is present). While this may be related, I find the horn sound is not very robust (actually quite puny). Is this normal for this car?
Curious as to whether the lights flashing when locking or unlocking the doors on the '06 F series was an option or standard equipment? I know that they flash when you lock the doors (hitting the button twice) but curious at to whether you can make them flash when you unlock (rather than just the interior light coming on).
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Accent GLS with 70,000 km on it. At times, my power steering pulley will lock up and start to slip. All belts have recently been replaced. After about 2000 km after replacement, is when the problem started. The problem is intermittent and the pump itself turns freely after the belt is removed. When it locks up a loud squealing sound can be heard. This happens only when tight turns are made (usually it's to the left). Could it be related to the pressure switch relief or relief valve?
View 11 RepliesMy alarm keeps going off randomly. its only happened a few times now but I don't know what's causing it. it went off last night at 9 and a few weeks earlier at 1 in the morning.
View 1 RepliesOver the past few days, my (factory) car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, with no one/nothing near it to cause it to go off. The car battery is less than 9 months old, the doors, windows, hood and trunk are all always closed. Why it is happening?
View 1 RepliesSo I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
View 1 RepliesOnly electrical mod that was done was the fog light mod so I can turn them on when I want... Is it possible that even if the fog lights are off, that they are pulling some juice from the battery ? In the last 6 months my car has died 4 times, ever since the fog light mod.
View 20 Replies2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
2008 manual gs 38000, with the ac turned on, upon accelerating, at different rpms, I get a quick loud squeak, and engine bogs down for a second. The engine has always hesitated upon acceleration with ac since i got it, meaning it'll get going and after 2 or three rpms, it'll bog for a quick second, ive asked dealer about it every time i take it in, and they always say its normal.
View 6 RepliesA friend of mine has a 2007 Accent with some scary MDPS issues. Basically it randomly freezes the steering wheel without a warning making it extremely hard to drive. He went to the dealership and since the car is without warranty they'll charge him 1200$ for repair. Is there any recall on these models for this MDPS?
View 7 RepliesI recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
Ok, So, Im 40 miles from home stuck in ice and snow in a hotel.. (my wife works close by- thought it would be safer than driving in the 10 inches of snow we got 3 days in a row) so, I go to pick her up tonight and I engage 4hi.. I hear the click and the light comes on.. but no clunk of the hubs locking.. I drop it in 4 lo.. it shifts in low.. but the hubs are not locking..
I hear a ticking sound as I drive and when I put it in 2wd it goes away. I turn off the truck, turn the wheel hard both ways .. get out and I can physically turn the drive shaft and I hear the ticking in the hubs. If I read correctly when the truck is off these should be locked?
is it possible the vacuum is not releasing? I also get the groaning when I start up of the air diverter.. that im told is operated by vacuum.. so I am guessing I have a vacuum problem??
My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
View 1 RepliesIs there any way to lock the doors without using the key fob when getting out? How to set the radio (base/premium? non-Dynaudio) to return to the same volume as when it turned off when turned on?
View 8 RepliesMy Phaeton has been worry-free for about a year, but recently the door locks have begun locking on their own. The red alarm light even comes on.
View 4 Replies