Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2007 - Rough Sounding For A Minute Or Two Then Died
Oct 27, 2012
My daughters 07 Accent quit a few days back. She managed to get it home but it was making a noise on the left side of the block before it died again. I started it the next morning and it was rough sounding for a minute or two before it died. There has been a check engine light on for quite some time that I was unaware of. A friend had a brand new fuel pump he sold me (very cheaply) so I installed that yesterday but the starter just cranks with no combustion at all. I will check for spark this AM and if there is none I will likely replace the crank sensor.
I've checked any and all fuses under the hood and all seem fine (although I've never seen the type with the two little "balls" but they seem to by fine also) My question concerns the timing belt. If I have spark and fuel pressure, how do I check for a bad timing belt ? I looked in through the oil cap filler for cam lobes but can't see past what looks like an oil "spout" part at the filler. Also, if the belt is gone would it bend the valves on this motor ? If the belt has stripped teeth and screws the timing I should still get some sort of very rough firing in a cylinder or two, shouldn't I ?
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2007 Accent Hatchback. Put gas in it from an Exxon we have bought from before with no problems. My kids car, running on vapors, put 1/2 tank of gas in. Pulled out of gas station and car starts running really rough, shaking. Still running though. I have gathered some knowledge from other threads, like timing belt needs to be changed (65000 on car). I replaced the plugs as an initial attempt at correcting the problem. Runs better, not great. Saw a thread with changing to better gas, will try that.
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I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
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The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
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My 07 camry's battery died last week and I got it jumped, drove about a mile and while at idle it felt as if the alternator was not charging the battery and It was slowly dying. Took it to Tires Plus, they said the computer forgot how to idle, so it was misfiring and threatening to shut down at every idle. 80 dollars later...it was fixed, for a week.
This morning, my battery was dead again, again from leaving a power connection unscrewed that came from my fog lights attached to the battery in the car after cleaning it on sunday, called AAA. He said that I have to get a screw to screw it back in or it will die once I turn off the engine again.
I work at a construction plant so we have quite a few nuts and washers laying around. Well it had a rough idle again, on the way to work, lights would be bright then dim again and vibrating the car, like it's struggling to keep the power.
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My 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and just about 200,000 miles stumbled for a minute then died, no engine light came on. It wanted to restart and almost did a couple time's but no go. which leads me to believe it has spark. after about a 30min cool down it started and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Got me home. then the next day same thing died and started after it cooled. Has done this a few time's.
I had put a cheap O'riely fuel pump in it a couple years ago. but i hear if you run your gas tank low on gas a lot (which I do) the pump can get hot and you can toast it. Does the fuel pump is the issue or could i have another problem. And BTW in the past year I have cleaned the EGR port's on the throttle body, put a new egr valve, and fuel filter. And i checked the fuel pressure to had 40...
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Ok, I am new to the Tiguan but not new to VW engines. For the last 11 years I am driving a 1.8T and I test drove the newer GTIs and Audis with the 2.0T. But with my 2012 Tiguan S manual I find the engine to be a little loud and rough sounding. Especially under heavy load it more reminds me of a diesel than a 4 banger turbo. Now, is this this normal or is it just my engine?
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I just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
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I have a 1999 SD V10 with about 133K on it. Runs great to the day. Recently I noticed alot of clicking and rough sounding noise coming from the a/c compressor the other day. Yep I got up underneath it and it look like it's about shot.
My question is : How hard is it to replace the clutch yourself with a new one. Are there any step by step direction here on the ford forums on how to do it. Looks like can just replace the a/c clutch and be good to go. A/C still blows cold air.
I took it to my mechanic the other day and they want $ for a replacement compressor and labor. I'd like to try and avoid that amount for now and just replace the clutch.
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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I was at a stop light. The light turned green and I let off the brake. Just then the car died while I was in drive. I couldn't put it in park. I was a little panicky. It broke down on a major road in morning traffic. I tried starting the car. Nothing. I think I managed to move the shifter into neutral and tried starting the car again. Not a problem this time. Maybe a few minutes had lapsed. It bothers me of course because I've only made 4 payments on it and I'm planning on a trip out of town this weekend. After I dropped my son off I made it home without incident. What caused this?
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I have a 2001 jag stype v8 with 180k miles. I bought the timing kit and aligned the camshafts correctly but it still idling rough and sounding like a diesel truck. What still maybe the problem?
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I have an issue with a slightly rough sounding engine and some white smoke on start up. It disappears very quickly. I have been told it may be glow plugs or an idle actuator thingy, how do i check which one it is. How can you tell if a glow plug is working or not. I have a 2006 Santa Fe 2.0 with 58000 on the clock.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent that won't start. My wife was driving home the other day, and while she was sitting at the light she said she noticed a sudden change in the idle. She said the car starting shaking a little and idling really rough. When she tried to accelerate after the light changed, she said the car sputtered and would barely go.
She was only a couple of blocks from the house so she continued home. The car made it the rest of the way home, but she said it never went over about 5 mph even though she was pressing the accelerator as she would if she were going about 30...the car just never responded. When she pulled into the garage the car died as she was turning. Now it will crank but it won't start at all.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor with my multimeter and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and I tested it immediately. The new one works, so I plugged everything back in and tried to start the car...nothing, just cranks and won't start. It's getting fuel and fire as well (tested both), but it's not hitting on any of the cylinders.
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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So, back when my car was my dad's, he used to drive a lot on the freeway for his job. He said that after getting off the freeway and transitioning to in-city driving, the transmission would start to act up. It only happened when the car was hot, and it's generally fine for just driving a couple miles to work like I do, albeit the occasional rough shift every now and again, but I'd like to be able to hit the freeway if I need to without worrying about the transmission badly misbehaving.
Also, I'm not sure if it's even relevant to that issue, but I've been aware of the fact that at least two of my ignition coils are bad, a common problem in MC Accents to my knowledge, and the engine hasn't been running as smoothly as it could be for the past several months. Is it at all possible that a long-standing misfire issue could play havoc with shifting patterns when the transmission changes from freeway to in-city shifting behavior?
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Two big issues of concern with my newly purchased used Accent with 40k on it.
When starting the car first thing in the morning, when I drive the car out my drive way in reverse, it feels like it runs a little rough in reverse. Nothing dramatic, but still strangely rough to cause me a little concern. The rest of the day i only have to reverse briefly from parking spaces, so i dont really notice it then. Is this normal? My driveway is also at a slight downhill angle, which may be related to the roughness?
My second big concern, is my AC makes a very low, hardly audible, but still noticeable growling sound. It is most noticeable after the car has been sitting a few hours, then I start it, and if I wait for about 30 seconds, I hear it growl for about 10 seconds. While driving the car around I hear it sporadically make the sound then too. It isn't consistent enough to say I hear it every certain amount of time. Its very random, except I always hear it after it's been sitting for a long time.
I can hear the sound best when the fan is set to Level 1. Turning it up to Level 4 doesn't make the growl louder, but it makes the fan so loud that its harder to hear the growl. Also, when I have it at level 1, and turn the AC button off, the growl goes away. It's concerning to me, and when I took it to the dealership, it wouldn't make the growl sound when the guy listened.
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I have a 2008 Accent 1.6L automatic that is running very rough when it accelerates. First of all there was some engine check light, I got the codes and it was a Cylinder misfire. Then I checked the following:
1.- Spark plugs (replaced them same NGK but I didn't gaped them, same result)
2.- Fuel injectors (removed them, cleaned them and installed in different order, same result)
3.- IGN coils (measure resistance, swap them in different places, same result)
4.- Checked most of the sensors including TPS, Crankshaft PS, MAF, Camshaft PS and nothing.
5.- I checked for any type of vacuum leak and I couldn't find one
After all that troubleshooting I cleaned the codes, started the car again and I have the same problem with no check engine lights on except that sometimes I would get a "running rich" code.
I also noticed that the air intake is LOUD like a performance air intake, is that something normal on the accent? (I checked the air filter and its not clogged FYI). I could only think of:
Gap spark plugs to .035
check timing belt
check fuel filter (I don't think so)
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My 2009 Accent has some very rough shifts from 1st to 2nd when I'm in the low RPMs.
Hyundai performed a transmission fluid flush and the other gears shift completely effortlessly. Is my tranny dying or what?
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I've had my 2010 Accent for about 9 months. It's got about 63K miles on it. Serviced regularly, no issues there. Yesterday while coming home from a road trip....6 hours there, heavy driving while in town, 6 hours back 2 days later, the check engine light came on the dash. I then noticed that the car was idling very rough. When I put it in gear after starting, I can visibly see the car the shake. Having major problems accelerating, I have to mash the gas to the floor to make it go. Shutting off the air conditioner seems to work a bit, but not totally.
I should note that I live in the South East US, it was over 95 degrees when we left town and the destination was over 100 the entire time we were there. I was told this could be vapor lock, but am not sure about what to do to clear that when the temps won't drop around here for some time. I took it to AutoZone this morning to have them read the codes on the check engine light and was told that their code reader was incompatible with my car.
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I have a 2009 Accent and after about 20 minutes of driving it started running really rough and my check engine light came on. It's worse at an idle (feels like it's going to stall out) but isn't quite as bad when I rev it. My first thought is water in the gas tank since we've had a lot of rain for the past week or so and I filled it up a day or two ago.
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