Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2007 SE - Horn Sounds As Car Starts Then Dies
Jun 22, 2015
Got a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
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I bought a 2009 Hyundai Accent used at 110.000Km. I've only been driving it for 3 weeks and today I went to start the car and it turned over and died right away. It did this a couple of times then it finally started fine and I was able to drive it. What it could be?
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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Tonight I got into my sonata and started it and went to put it in reverse and it just died. I put it back in park and went to start it and it wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. I found someone to jump me and when I had enough juice, I got it started again and immediately died and at the same time it died I heard a pop, I thought my belt had broke or something but it was fine. It won't crank at all now, just light dim and a click. The time before this incident it sounded really rough when I started it but it went away. The car has been idling rough right after start up then is fine and this has only been recently, just today it has sounded really rough during quick acceleration (I don't know if this has anything to do with it). I think it is the starter but I am not sure. The fuel pump was replaced several months ago so I am pretty confident it is not the fuel pump.
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I have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
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2008 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0 it. We replaced a bad water pump, and timing belt while we were there. I followed directions found on multiple websites. We spun the crank shaft to the top dead center mark on the crank sprocket/engine block, and the cam sprocket / assignment mark. Then removed tensioner, and belt. Installed new belt and ensured alignment marks had not moved. Applied pressure to tensioner and tightened. Reassembled everything else. Car started with no problems, drive for about twenty minutes started making clicking sound from under the hood, we turned around to come back home and the car still making clicking sounds gradually started to loose power and speed until the engine stalled and would not restart. Trying to find out what could have happened.
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2006 ... HV battery changed over 4 months ago and car ran fine until last week when the car just stopped and won't get ready. Before that incident, the vehicle was running fine all day, while he was returning from the days chores in the evening, it just stopped, dashboard all lit up. After a while, the car started again, and he was able to move it away to the side of the road...just about 2 meters and it stopped again.
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I have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse with the 3800 Series 3 V6. It has 140K miles. Lately on warmish starts (after shopping for example) the car will start then slowly die (not all the time but a good chunk of the time). It starts fine when truly warm, and usually when it's cold it's fine too. It runs great otherwise. It never stalls or dies otherwise.The car has new plugs and wires, a newish battery, a new air filter and I cleaned the MAF sensor. I've only had the car about 6 months, and noticed the problem in the last couple.I scanned for codes and there are none, also there is no check engine light. The car doesn't have an IAC valve or a fuel filter (I know those are common culprits)But it starts easier when cold (even -20) than when warmish. Here are two videos I took of me starting it. *note the coolant temperature gauge. It's partially warm.
[URL] ....
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Over the past few days, my (factory) car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, with no one/nothing near it to cause it to go off. The car battery is less than 9 months old, the doors, windows, hood and trunk are all always closed. Why it is happening?
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My car is accent 1.4 A/T 2012, and lately I've been hearing this metallic knocking sounds underneath my car. it happens every time after i drove my car for a longer distance and even on a shorter distance with no minimum running speed, you can hear the metallic knocking sounds whether the engine is on or off. Sometimes it is too loud you don't have to go out from the car you just have to roll the window down to hear it.
I've brought this already to my dealer and told me it was normal but I don't want to accept their answer so i refer it to another hyundai dealer. the second dealer made an adjustments on the muffler and catalytic something and even upgraded the CEU but to no avail and even adjusted my steering preload. BUT I'm still hearing it!! What to do.
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So I've been living in FL and the other day there was a hurricane and the roads flooded. I think I got some water in my engine or somewhere because now my CEL is coming on then flashing and the car sounds like it's underwater! I haven't been able to drive it anywhere to get the code checked, I don't want to drive it because it seems like it's in rough shape. I checked all the plugs and cleaned them, but the 1st one was wet so I think there may have been water in there. After I cleaned the plugs I reset the ECU and the CEL was gone and I drove it 2 miles w/o issue. Then I went to the automotive store to get some oil/filter, etc to change the oil. I get back to my car and as soon as I turn it on again the CEL comes on and then starts flashing after a few mins of me revving it. I noticed that there is water coming out of the exhaust, like a lot more than normal, so what is happening. I did the oil change with no problems but when I started it again the CEL came on and started flashing. 2007 Accent SE
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My manual transmission has been making some funky ringing type sounds when cold. Pretty sure it's the trans since pressing the clutch in stops it. It always happens around 2k and is worst when engine breaking. When I just start the car there is a very very faint ringing that goes away as soon as I press the clutch even a tiny bit.
The car has about 45k miles and the clutch itself feels strong and shifting is absolutely fine, I changed the oil to Redline the past summer. Maybe throw out bearing?
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In the last 6 weeks my 2007 Accent has died when I've come to a stop. Once in traffic on the freeway and the rest at stop signs or lights. The car will start back up and won't die again for a week maybe. Nothing consistent. I took it to a mechanic and nothing shows up on the computer. I took it to the dealer, still nothing on the computer. He cleaned the throttle body I think and put an additive in the tank. Two days later it died at a stop sign. Automatic transmission. Ok, what's the problem?
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Whenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
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It is a bit 'of time that my engine have some loss of power with bumps that is not much noticeable and, for now, only just annoying while driving. But lately it has happened that, especially with the AC turned on, the engine dies during gear shift. I noticed that when this happens, the engine rpms drops more fast than normal, causing rough idle for 3-4 seconds (it go down to ~4-500 rpm) and subsequent automatic acceleration from the ecu to ~1200 rpm to settle again to the normal idle (~700 rpm). When this happens if the AC is on, sometimes the engine dies.
I checked the idle control valve and it work good and it's clean. The spark plugs have less than 5000 km, spark wire are good and also coils are in line with the reference values, Primary Coil 0.87 Ω 10% at 20 C (68 F), Secondary Coil 13.0 kΩ 15% at 20 C (68 F) (I don't have the coil on plug but external coil version, like this: [URL] ....)
The only thing a bit 'strange that I noticed is that the throttle position sensor has a strange range when i check it with an obd2 scanner. The idle % reported is 8,7% and at full throttle is 87,5%. I never removed or changed this sensor. If I remember correctly once I unplugged its connector, but the engine was turned off. Is this the normal range??? There is some reset procedure for this sensor?
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When I set the locks and alarm after driving with the AC on, the horn sounds muffled. If the AC was not on, it sounds normal. I am curious, should I expect this to come back? Is it a sign of a problem I need to concern myself with?
I suspect it's the battery, and just had it replaced today because the dealer said it was functional, but holding less of a charge than it should.
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My girlfriend went to start her car this morning only to find that it would not start and there is a click coming from the horn fuse. Went to try to jump start the car and the horn actually came on, but still would not start. I have researched a little and found this can be a common problem with the rubber bumper under the hood or caused by unlocking the door with the key and not not the remote start. She called hyndai and they suggested to charge the battery and then try to shut the alarm off with the fob.
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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Two problems- disc light on instrument cluster stays on. Nothing wrong with disc. Horn sounds when starting car. I have to sequence lock/unlock several times, then start again. Horn sounds intermittently, when driving.
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After washing my car this morning, I pulled it into the garage, pushed the park button, then the power button and got out of the car. Shortly after entering my house from the garage the horn started sounding very loudly. I grabbed the keys and ran back out to the garage to see what was wrong. I pushed the power button again but it just went to the accessory setting, then I powered up and checked to be sure I was in park, brake set, no door open. When I pushed the power button again, the horn stopped and everything seemed to be normal. I checked some other threads but they seemed to be about a horn alarm. I have not had an alarm activated that I know about.
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