I have a 2007 accent. I just changed the oil and filter. I typically don't look at the dipstick after I change the oil but this time I did. The dipstick is ready a good 1/4 inch over full after the change. I started the car and let it run for a while and it still reads the same.
I don't see how I put too much oil in, but I am paranoid that I did. Is it typical for this model to read a little over full on the dipstick?
We just past 1000 miles on our new 08 2.0T wagon and there is '0' oil consumption. The dipstick reads completely full. And...it is noticeably cleaner than our 06 2.0T after 1000 miles (after oil changes).
View 6 RepliesWhen you first pull out your dipstick on a touareg v-10 it will show no oil at all. but when you check it a second or third time it reads fine.
View 9 RepliesI spoke to a mechanic and he is confident that there is no damage since it is not making any noise after oil is added. He is saying that the lifters would have made the noise and now that oil is added, everything is okay.
It is a 2006 Hyundai Accent.
Gas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
Fuel gauge reads full all the time except when the key is off. Also the temp gauge reads low. Just barely on the mark for normal.
View 9 RepliesFull tank and the gauge reads empty. Has happened to me a few times. Occurs after a fillup and disappears after the car is left to sit for a while off. I would hate for this to happen on a long drive. Dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the issue. Am wondering if this might be related to the hiccup in some way. Also, am wondering if this is a fuse issue.
View 8 RepliesSo I had the brakes services yesterday at a new shop in town. Normally I wouldn't do this, I like to do it myself. After I dropped the truck off I get a call a while later and the service tech tells me that the passenger front caliper is the wrong one. He says it's actually for the drivers side, but who ever did the brakes last just flipped it upside down and put it on the passenger side. So in essence, I have two drivers side calipers on the front of my truck.
I got under ther and looked and the bleeder screw is on the bottom on the passenger side. I would assume it's supposed to be on the top like the others?
So here's my questions......
1. Is it even possible to put the drivers side on the passenger side (upside down?)
2. Is it really the wrong caliper? It has been working for over two years like this with no ill effects.
3. Should I worry about it if in fact it is the wrong caliper?
I've never done the brakes on this truck actual truck myself. I really hate taking things to the shop because you never know if they are trying to scam you, which I'm pretty sure they were. I left there with only new pads...
I'm new to the Gen 1.
All has been well in just over a month of driving the car and about 3300 miles logged. The 12v, Aux battery was dead from the car sitting on the lot for so long (I replaced with a new OEM Toyota 12v battery) After a week of the car experiencing dim headlights, and various other electronics
No codes or CEL though.
Now that the 12v battery has been replaced, the car runs exceptionally well, aside from an intermittent fuel gauge issue where it only reads full bars (completely full) if I let the tank get to empty (Flashing single bar) or close to that. If I fill the tank from s
I've noticed on a few occasions that when asking for full throttle to merge on a highway, my car bucks while in 3rd gear (automatic) as the rpms climb above 5k or so. It's almost as if the car is choking on too much air (I do have the SRI) because backing off the throttle slightly immediately stops the bucking. The car does not buck in 2nd gear at the redline. What would cause it?
I'm thinking maybe the spark plug wires are arching or there is a slight crack in one of the coil packs that only manifests under full throttle. Or perhaps the engine really is getting more air than it can handle. I'm at 46k, no mechanical problems, never a check engine light, and the car operates smoothly under all other circumstances. The spark plugs were replaced with NGK platinums at 30k.
I have a 2009 Accord. Twice on long trips (~40 miles) in the rain, the car started missing badly, and the check engine light began blinking on and off. The first time, I pulled over and shut it off, restarted it, and everything was fine. A few weeks later, I took it for an oil change, and told the mechanic about it. He checked for codes, but there were none. The next time it happened (again on a rainy day on the same 40 mile route), I shut it off, turned it on, and drove straight to the dealer. He said it was 2.5 qts low on oil, and that could make it act that way. I check my oil regularly, so I was really surprised at that. It hasn’t happened again, but now I’m really obsessive about checking (and recording) oil. It’s always full, never low – except that twice, after the car has sat all day in cold weather, the dipstick was dry. I drove it home (a couple of miles), let it sit for an hour and checked the oil to find it full both times. I’m religious about changing the oil, so I doubt that there’s sludge in there…
View 8 RepliesMy accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
View 5 RepliesI turned on the car (2003 Chevy Venture) today and the "Low Engine Oil" display came on. I checked the oil (car had been parked on a flat surface overnight and engine was cold) and the oil was about 1/3 of the way up the dipstick, which is way, WAY past the full line. I let the car sit and warm up a little, checked again and the same level appeared. I am wondering what that means. After being on for a minute or so the engine oil light went off.
The check engine light has been on for about two days and when I went to check it yesterday the error code was p0171. Are the two related? Is there an easy fix for this or is this a sign of a serious problem?
Sons 03 accent tachometer stopped working. It now reads zero..... All other gauges fine as well as lights. Question is , is there a sensor that controls it that may be bad??
View 3 RepliesWhen the gas gauge of my recently purchased 2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 automatic is on E it will only take approx. 40 liters (11 gallons) at the pump. Manual says it's a 75 litre (19.8) gallon tank. Called dealership and service advisor said "they are all like that, you can go quite some distance on E". I think he's full of something that creates gas and there's a problem with either my float or the sending unit in the tank. Why in the world would anyone make a vehicle with a "reserve" pass E almost as much as what the gauge reads before E?
View 6 RepliesA/C is working, 45-47 degrees at idle. All fan speeds work. Air direction control is working, air to defroster, face and feet all seem to change when asked.
Issue is very low airflow, 4-6 inches out of the vents and no air can be felt.
Checked cabin air filter and while it could use to be replaced, removal of filter and replacement of the cover DOES NOT INCREASE AIRFLOW.
Where to look next?
The air bag light came on a few days ago on the wife's 2007 Accent GLS. What would the problem most likely be?
View 1 RepliesI am currently having an issue with my 07 Accent misfiring on cylinder 1. So far, I have changed the spark plugs, which were due anyway, and checked the coil pack. Every coil on each cylinder reads 0.8 ohms, so I am going on the assumption that they are ok. Didn't see any issue with the connector end inside the boot. However, when I changed the plugs, I discovered that I had oil in the plug tubes on 1 and 4. So I changed the valve cover gasket and tube rings and cleaned all oil residue from the packs. I have also checked the short coil wire harness right on the packs themselves. Have not tried to check further because I don't know which pins that harness goes to on which ECM connector. I still have the misfire, and I'm not sure where to go next. I was thinking compression or fuel injector. I don't have a compression tester, and I assume the only way I can check the injector is to swap it with another cylinder?
View 10 Replies2007 accent randomly starts missing. throws cyl.3 missfire. replaced all plugs and cyl.3 coilpak.
View 2 RepliesI cant open the hood on my accent. Pulling on the latch handle I can tell there is no pull. It is slack.
I tried pulling the cable with pliers but it didn't work. Pressing the hood latch under the hood does nothing, the hood is tight and wont budge.
My battery also just died last night.
2007 Accent GLS. I have oil in the intake going towards the engine. I know a bit of a mist is normal but mine drips once I remove the intake. I changed the PCV valve but its still there. Intake filter was also changed and I got an oil change. The car also feels like it staggers once I take my foot off the gas.
Also after driving on the highway for about an hour the car wants to stall if I go above 100km/h but its fine below 100km/h.
I have new spark plugs, got the fuel system cleaned at the Stealer, changed the coils, new air intake filter.