Accent LC (2000-05) :: Door Locks And Unlocks On Its Own
Feb 14, 2013
I just got my beautiful accent but the locks sometimes lock and unlock on their own! I think its just a grounded out wire. It doesn't happen all that often but I would like to get it fixed. Also the window switch doesn't work on the passenger side. The only thing that will make it go up and down is the switch on the drivers side.
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When I use the fob to lock the '02 Santa Fe, the passenger door lock (only when hot outside) locks then unlocks. You can tell because you hear the locks cycle twice in rapid succession. If I use the key in the passenger door and lock the car, no issues; or if it's cool out no issues so something is expanding or dragging when it's hot. Where do I start the trouble shooting? The lock, the cables, the actuator?
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My driver side door no longer unlocks/locks when I use either my remote or the button in the car.
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This started happening a couple days ago, after turning off the car and attempting to lock the car with the handle button, it will lock (no beep) then unlock- the same way it would if there were keys left inside. The only other set of keys are at my house, so I know that's not the issue. Doesn't do it all the time, but enough to be annoying. Same thing happens if I use the remote- lock, no beep, unlocks. The only way I can get it to beep and stay locked is to open the pass side door and lock it with the pass side door button.
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My car locks and unlocks itself when i stop, is this something i should be concerned with or is it just an annoyance i can forget about the car is cheap so not wanting to spend alot of money on it.
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Car is a 2000 Golf 2.0 GL.
I just programmed a new eBay key fob today and it works fine to lock/unlock the car (programmed using the 1 key in ignition, other in door method). It locks and unlocks all doors including the trunk, but when I try to start the car with it, it starts, then dies right away...guessing something to do with Immo2?
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6l automatic non ABS (original owner) with no real issues until last month when the left front brake started locking up. Sometimes within a mile sometimes after ten. The brakes go from normal pressure to hard as a rock unable to move the brake pedal even when I bleed off the booster. I've researched every site then proceeded with the following work.
Changed the front pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines plus the back brake cylinders, rubber lines and master cylinder then bleed the system using a power bleeder... all to no avail. As a last resort I replaced the booster, still no change.
I've checked the brake pedal and the booster pushrod adjustment. Eventually took it to my mechanic. After two days he told me he was stumped as well.
The only thing left is the rear brake proportioning valves on the left side of the brake cylinder. Can't figure out how they would be causing the left front brake to lock up if indeed that is the problem.
There are no kinks in the lines, no air in the lines, bleed almost a gallon of brake fluid through the entire system and still zip... Frustration and anger has left me for despair and total confusion and a 700+ dollar hole in my pocket.
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How to turn off the Automatic Door locks that engage once your Passat goes over 10mph? Its really anoying. Can it be done? 2000 GLS...
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I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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2000 Ford Explorer Limited - door locks not working. When they started to go bad, they would lock but not unlock. Then shortly after they were inoperative, including the lock in the back. I checked the fuse and it is OK. This may be something - when I pulled the fuse I tested on side and got battery voltage. The other terminal was showing just over 8 volts. With the fuse pulled, should it have any voltage at all??? Also, what should the voltage be at the switch in the drivers door?
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Issue on 2000 Passat where the auto door locks lock when you start to drive, then out of the blue, one or more will pop back up. Sometimes one will just pop back up at the next stop sign when stopping, then go back down again when starting.
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Looking for information in regards to the issues that I'm having with my brake lights including the 3rd brake light.
I have running lights, backup lights, and turn signals; I have checked all the fuses inside and under the hood; I have cleaned 2 grounds on the left rear of the car; I have checked the bulbs; I have jumped the wires at the brake light switch. All to no avail.
I have also have no power to the at the brake light fuse.
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I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
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I also have a 2000 boneville and over the winter i discovered that those same three windows/locks/courtesy lamps doesn't work , I have went through all the fuses which are fine , I will call the dealership and check on the BCM. I also have the wet floor problem. But no sun roof, I read that it may be the connector under the pass seat, I see a connector above the carpet, could that be it or is it located under the carpet...
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I have a 2000 Taurus and recently the power windows and power locks stopped working. They won't work from any door switch but when I use the key fob to unlock or lock the car the locks will work. However, the windows won't work from any door switch. I didn't see a fuse marked for the windows or locks.
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My front driver side auto door lock isn't working. I thought it was the actuator but I already replaced that and there is no improvement. It unlocks just fine by pulling the handle, but the keypad and door switches don't work.
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All 4 crew cab door locks are not working...I see and hear them moving a little but not enough to get the job done.....Ive read a good fix on this forum but have a few questions...... 1. Could the problem be in the switch or wires ... 2. If I try to fix---do I need to fix all doors or is one door somehow messing the other up.
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I just bought a 2000 super duty F250 Triton V10 and the auto door locks don't work. They try to work as in tug an eighth of an inch but won't successfully engage or disengage. Thought it might just be the switch inside the door handle but they don't work on the passenger side etc either.
Also two days after I bought it I found out first hand that these motors spit out spark plugs and i had to replace the plug and coil. I was told that there is a tool that I can tap out the heads with and then put inserts in so i no longer have this problem. Where do i get that tool and how much are they? Is it true that pulling the plugs can strip out the heads because i bought all new plugs for the truck and was then told that it will strip out the heads.
How many quarts of oil does this engine hold and should i use a certain type of oil? It has high miles but purrrr'ss like a kitten.
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I do have an Accent 2002 automatic 1,6 L. All doors have a power lock door motor EXCEPT driver door. The only way to lock or unlock ALL doors is with the key.
If I unlock the driver door, all door unlock. I know I have to add a motor to the mechanism in the driver door, but I don't know what to add exactly...
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2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
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