Alright, after taking everything off and replacing all the joints/bushings, I am left with the control arm. (it hasn't been easy either)
I am at the control arm (Passenger side) and i got the rear bushing loose. I managed to brake the front one loose, with a lot of force, but it spins. I see in HMA that it has a bolt, or so it appears, but how on earth do you get to that?
I'm pulling my control arms to replace the bushings (they were completely split) and I'm trying to get the right one off. How the heck did you get the boot out on the front passenger side?! See pics. The bolt jams right up to the oil pan. The only way I see it is to remove the pan. Is this right?!?!
View 6 RepliesI must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
View 3 Replies2008 6.4L F250 Crew. I just recently had a new radiator installed while the cab was off for an oil cooler change. I noticed that my lower front bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
I thought it would be an easy, pull the bolts drop the lower bushing and reinstall. Looks like they don't come out so easily. Is there a trick to getting the lower mounts/bushings separated from the uppers?
I am needing to replace a bent drivers side lower control arm, but it looks to me the 'front most' control arm to frame bolt is situated right next to the auto transmission! How can I snake this bolt out? Do I really have to raise the engine/tran up to clear this bolt on the control arm?
View 1 RepliesI'm in the process of changing the wheel bearing and took the brakes, disconnected the sway bar, and other large bolt but can't get the upper control arm disconnected because once the nut gets to a certain point, the ball joint starts spinning with it. Tried holding the bolt at the bottom with vice grips and it still turns. I'm thinking I might have to take off the whole A arm if I can't get this nut off.
View 1 RepliesGirlfriend went to start her car on a nice cold day, and said it wouldn't turn over. so after taking her to work, i tried to see what the issue was . . . and the key wont move. the steering wheel is loose, i used the transmission override to move the stick back and forth a few times. still no go.
Did the hammer tap on the key, and used electronics cleaner on the switch in case something was stuck.
Oddity was, the door ajar chimes come on without the key inserted. So am I chasing electrical gremlins or what? the car is a base model without keyless entry.
How to remove the rear view mirror? I've tried pulling, turning and twisting without any success. I have become spoiled by the self dimming mirrors in my other rides and want to add one with the Home Link buttons.
View 6 RepliesMy accent (2001, 1.6L, with 179k miles) has service engine soon light on. Brought it to autozone and they said the upstream O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I borrowed the socket to take out the O2 sensor. It's very difficult even with the tool, because the O2 sensor was stuck with a lot of rust. I used an extension bar to get it out finally, but now when i tried to put the new sensor in, I found the hole's thread is very loose. Tried very hard but can't get the new sensor in securely. It seems I had to replace the whole exhaust manifold. The manifold is very expensive(because it has a build in catalyst converter). I'm wondering is there a way to make the O2 sensor in secure without replacing the whole thing? if I had to replace the manifold then I probably will just get rid of this car.
View 1 Repliesmy 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
View 3 Repliesmy problem is this: my lower control arm bushing, front but (rear bushing) unfastens alright but i cannot get the bolt out no matter what i do. it just keeps spinning and will not come out the control arm has snapped itself so needs to be replaced. now is there a secret way (lol) to get this out iam about to become on nerve pills because of this lol. it just keeps turning on me and will not come out the other nut/bolt came out without any problems.
and from the manufactures book the actual gm book 375.00 paid for this darn book
anyway it says that these bolts have got to be placed back in from the inside (both of them) meaning they aren't supposed to be placed back one one way the the other way. a guy has told me its okay to be doing it the way where i place it back in to wiggle it back and forth to get it back in but the gm manual says to put both bolts back in the exact same way from inside the control arm out and the both nuts to be facing outside. and even when i took them both off the one was bolt end from the outside in and the other from the inside out? i have a 1997 3.1 front wheel drive. and i have only 1 lower control arm on each side
The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
View 9 RepliesAny hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
I took my Touareg in for an oil change. When the tech lifted it up, he called me and pointed our a bushing on the lower control arm which was leaking oil or some fluid. I touched it and it seemed like oil of some sort. It was like black or something near that color. He told me that maybe it was some kind of a hydraulic bushing and the seal had gone bad. The oil was not coming from anywhere else, but the bottom of the bushing.
I took it in to service and the tech couldn't really explain where the oil was coming from, but told me that that bushing did not have any type of fluid in it. While I had the Touareg in, the air suspension compressor finally got replaced. I feel like I'm actually driving a luxury car now. It feels so much nicer! That immediately got rid of most of my cabin rattles. Boy, was my ride bad before. That was in "comfort". I can't begin to describe how horrible it was in sport.
They replaced the dual horn, because mine went bad. They also replaced the wood trim on the driver side door. They kept ordering the wrong color. My original Myrtle was almost chocolate in color. The ones that they get now are much lighter. Just about all my wood has now been changed. The only problem now is that for some reason or another, the headlight washer isn't working. I'm wondering if they disconnected a plug while working on the horn.
So, after about a year, I've finally got just about everything done. Now all I need are new tires and an alignment. Speaking of alignments, I've noticed that my Touareg is the only vehicle I've ever driven that will continue to drive in a circle with the wheels turned, even when you let go of the wheel... while going forward. In other words, if you turn the wheel enough and accelerate, the wheel will tend to turn further until it locks. Other cars will straighten out as soon as you release the wheel, if you are going forward (not in reverse). Ok, there are 3 questions on this post: The deal with the bushing, the deal with the headlight washer and the deal with the wheel that doesn't straighten itself out.
I am having an issue with the car not feeling stable on the highway or at speeds over 50mph when I am on a curve and go over a roadwork patch. The cabin of the car seems to float way too much to the side, almost like hydroplaining although the wheels stay put on the road.
After describing this to a mechanic, he said it sounds like my lower control arm bushings are gone. He looked at them and confirmed it, the rubber bushings that control the side to side action are cracked and worn out. He said that he is unable to just replace the bushing and has to special order the whole arm from the dealer (approx 200$ each arm).
I went to get a second opinion and another mechanic basically told me the same thing except the price on the part went down to 175 per arm with 2-3 hours labor.
Recently I've had problems with my DRL (Day time Running Lights) Control Module. When I start the car, the DRL starts to make a loud buzzing sound. When I turn on my High Beams, it stops making the noise. It sounds like there's a relay that Isn't working like its supposed to be. So, I've thought of replacing it, but I`m not sure if its the DRL that's defective or just a wiring problem...
View 1 RepliesI'm getting ready to replace my passenger side control arm after it had broken. Is it recommended to change the drivers side too? Is is also necessary to get an alignment?
View 4 Replies2004 Hyundai Accent
- Car won't start ...
- Remote key unlocks the car fine
- When put the key in the ignition and turn 'on' the little key indicator on the cluster doesn't come on.
- Left overnight and tried again in the morning, key indicator come on and then disappeared and wasn't able to start car.
- Key indicator now won't come on.
I spoke to mechanic and he said replace the immobilizer control module and reprogram key..
So I installed a new radio in my car today and connected everything besides the dimming and illuminating wires since my new head unit didn't have one. I connected everything that i needed to like ground power and power from the ignition switch. Radio doesn't turn on at all.
After installing this new radio the climate control doesn't light up anymore. Checked all the fuses under the dash on the driver side and under the hood. All of them are good. Is there any other reason the head unit and the climate control lights wouldn't work.
The clock, a/c and the thing defroster lights work. same with the ash tray light. seems to me that the only light that isn't working is the climate control light and the radio doesn't power on at all.
The rubber bushing (is it a bushing) at the top of the right rear shock on my 2002 Santa Fe is wearing away. Can I replace just that? Or do I have to do the whole shock? The shock itself seems fine.
View 2 RepliesSo I have to replace them since I have this rattling in the rear and my mechanic has diagnosed it to be the rear bushings...
View 1 Replies