I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
View 4 RepliesMy Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback, the car has about 41,6xx miles on it. When i drive it between 2nd and 3rd gear it shift violently, its almost like it shifts due to pressure, it also happens when it downshift too. Also the reverse went out, i can hear the pump running and it goes into reverse but when i press on the gas it acts like it in neutral. This is a daily driver for me.
View 9 RepliesWhy my car is grinding gear when I shift from 1st to 2nd, & yes the clutch is fully depleted and still grinds when I shift.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 made a sharp mechanical noise one day, next thing I knew it lost the ability to shift out of 2nd gear....Now, it can still shift into 2nd gear when cold, but only after holding rpm for a bit and then suddenly jerking into 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up for a few minutes though, after dropping out of 2nd gear, that's it! Then it's stuck in 1st gear the rest of the time. Reverse doesn't work anymore at any time, and it gave me code P0732 to P0734 which should be gears 2 - 4. Is it possible that not being to get out of 1st means 2nd gear is broken, but the other 2 are okay and it just can't get shift past 2nd? Or might all 3 have problems after all?
View 1 RepliesI just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent 1.6 with 187000 km on it. I started noticing over the last month that when I shift into second gear the car seems to stop powering the wheels temporarily. Once the RPM's pick up (around 2200) the problem goes away. This seems to only happen when I originally shift into second and the RPM's are lower. If I accelerate slowly then the lag usually won't happen, but if I push down more on the gas then you can really notice the lag.
The spark plugs only have 15000 km on them, air filter is new, just replaced the fuel filter, oil was just changed (synthetic) as well as the filter, and I just recently cleaned out the throttle body. I have also seemed to notice a loss of overall power since at highway speeds since this problem started. The engine doesn't lag when I'm in 4th or 5th gear on the highway, but it seems to have less power when I'm accelerating on the highway.
I am considering buying a 98 Passat, it has 140k kms (80,000 miles) on it. It is in mint condition, but the transmission, will not shift past 2nd gear, whether in Auto mode, or manual shifting? (5 speed tiptronic).
The current owner took it to a mechanic, he tested it, replace a sensor in the tranny, but the problem is still there, and the engine light is still on. Is it possible that the computer just needs to be reset with a proper Vag-com?
98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
View 1 RepliesI have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
View 1 RepliesMy VSC and check engine light have come on. In addition now the auto trans will not shift past 4 gear with in auto or with me doing it manually. My local shop who has worked on this car before and is very good put the computer reader on it and got a P0500 for vehicle speed sensor "A". Today they put it on the real monitor and it reads a different code that says check engine code but does not reveal the code to read.
I really don't want to go to my dealer and get it hard. The car has 175,000 and until now has run great. I tried the gas cap fix to no avail. The shop did a reset when i first got there and it last 75 yards.
My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
I bought the car with 117k and never since my possession bothered to service it. Why? I kept putting it off well at 165k I said heck ill do it. Currently at 170k my gear wont shift past third and its reoccurring almost daily. When I first bought it it was intermittent. I think the late service messed it up. Here's the thing, aamco will open up my pan and look at my solenoids which is 250ish.
View 14 RepliesMy 1990 Honda Accord is stuck in "sport", and won't shift past second gear. The button isn't stuck, but the "S" light stays on.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
Ok so I went mudding this past week, and I put my 997 7.3 truck in 4x4 had fun then took it out of 4 wheel now it won't shift past 2nd gear top speed 35 mph.... It still has all the power revs up Rpms fine but it won't go faster then that.
View 8 RepliesBack in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
My 2002 1.5td accent starts from cold every time but if drive about half a mile then stop when i restart it wont get past about 1200 revs. i leave it for 5 mins then runs fine...
View 1 RepliesI picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
My accent had been sitting neglected for a few years. I decided as a side project I would get it in working order before winter and do more to it next spring. The car had a rough idle when started but I had ran it nearly all day a few months ago.
Last week I changed spark plugs and a few other minor things. The undercarriage was wire wheeled and coated with POR 15. This weekend I added gas (with gas cans, car is off road currently) and added techron fuel treatment. The car took two tries to start (always two) so I changed the fuel filter and that problem went away. However, I noticed that when the car idles it begins stalling when it reaches temperature. Thermostat says car is not overheating.
After 15 or so minutes of idling the car just cuts out and SOMETIMES will start but usually it just cranks and cranks. If I wait a bit it will start up again but will die more quickly and this will keep happening until I let it cool. I am also noticing a fairly loud clicking sound from behind fuel injectors. Not the injectors themselves but somewhere behind the fuel injector rail. I am unsure if this had been going on previously or if it is a symptom of the stalling problem.
I cleaned throttle body, IAC, crank and cam sensors though no error codes to speak of. Rough idle takes a few minutes as at first the engine is smooth.